• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Cracked the head on the starter - over torqued?

J

jrsavoie

Recruit
Messages
10,382
Reaction score
9,595
Location
Rural Clifton, Illinois
I was installing the AC Delco starter on the 98 Suburban. I resused the GM starter bolts. I never have before but they looked good.

I tightened to 35 lbs and it didn't feel tight so I gave it a little more and it wasn't the torque wrench that clicked. The aluminum head on the starter cracked. I've changed a bunch of these starters and most of the time without a torque wrench. I always used a long handle 3/8 drive Snap-on ratchet. I also always used new bolts.

After I torqued the bolts the first time I tried with the ratchet and could still tighten them more, so I did.

I had the front bracket on and the bolts lightly snugged but still lose enough to let the starter move.

Did I do anything wrong other than over torqueing and not using new bolts?

I've changed a bunchof these starters since 1989 and never had an issue.

I would think you would have to really overtorque it before you cracked the housing. I'm glad I didn't scew up the block.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
I use an impact to put my starters in. I do not want a bolt backing out. They will hurt things when loose. Bolt breaks off and the other one loose I have seen on a 350. I hit them with close to 100 Ft Lbs.

I suggest it was a bad casting. Suggest a new powermaster starter. Autolite from Oriley's I have also had decent luck with.

Possible you have a bent bolt stressing things.

Don't forget to warm up the TQ wrench with a few clicks on the lug nuts. They can stick.
 
Something else I usually do that I skipped was to plug the block heater in. IT seems that the bolts are tighter in a warm block.

I also usually do this when installing or removing the oil filter adapters on 4x4's

I'm agreeing with the bad casting, but would like to know if there is anything else that I might have missed.

I was much stronger a few short years ago and never had a problem hand tightening without a torque wrench. I used to accidently break 3/8 bolts just tightening them up with a ratchet
 
No good news here.

I need somebody to give me detailed instructions on changing the starter on a 6.5 turbo diesel.

I'm missing something. I've changed at least a dozen of these starters since 1989. Never had a problem that a couple of swear words didn't fix>

I cracked another Ac Delco starter cone in the exact same place while torquing. I snugged up with the 3/8 ratchet and torqued one side and the other side made the same sick cracking - but not the torque wrench cracking sound as before.

Does anybody have a clue as to what is going on?

Anybody close want to make $100 to install a starter? I can't afford to keep buying starters or having them rebuilt.

I can't take it to a shop unless I have it towed.
 
You forgetting a shim or something Jeff? Sorry I don't have the time right now or I'd run down and lend another set of eyes/hands to see if we can figure it out but I have a yardfull of people from all over happening Saturday...
 
Thanks MIke.
I've never encountered a shim on any of these vehicles.

I'm befuddled as hell. I'm going to borrow a torque wrench for the next one.

If my torque wrench crapped out maybe it is way over torqueing the bolts. But I tightened with the same 3/8 long handle Snap on ratchet I did for years before I ever strated using a torque wrench on starter bolts. And then I used the torque wrench to crack the cone. The first bolt clicked almost immediately and the 2nd made that sickening sound from hell.
 
There def is something not quit right there,i've never cracked a starter yet and never used a T-wrench on them either.
Me thinks one would be able to snap a bolt off and not crack the cone

I would take a strait edge across the block mounting surface to verify it is not high in the center or has any rust embedded,..do the same with the starter,make sure the starter mounting pad is straight across the entire pad including the outer edges of the bolt holes( use a file across the pad to take the high spots out if it is not 100% flat.
Use a grade 8 flat washer under the bolt heads.
Snug down both bolts alternatly and evenly before using the T-wrench.
Even a slightly bend bolt would not crack that cone(would be better to use new bolts)

lastly, make sure you got the right starter,manual tranny's and AT's have a diff lenght nose cone.
I had to grind out the bellhousing on one to make a starter fit.
 
Its the bolts, I think one or both r bent. I put my starter on with bent bolts and u could not get it tight so I took it off n on several times before I bought new bolts and the brace and got it tight easy then.
 
Did you only replace the cone.....Or the entire starter?

If it was a different starter, I'd say that confirms it.....The BOLTS are NO GOOD.

I've heard of people using shims, but that is VERY far and few between......Like 1 out of 100 odds.

I'd go get NEW OEM Stealer bolts.....Just for the piece of mind.

They are supposed to be knurled at the ends, or something like that. I remember another thread about the Knurled bolts and someone else having a problem with starter replacement, or breaking units every few weeks when buying NON OEM bolts.

Or if you just changed the nose cone, maybe you just got a bad unit......What brand of starter is it?
 
The startersd were both AC Delcos.

I forgot about the difference from standard to automatic trans.

The bolts are GM as well as the washers. I don't have anything to compare the starter to as far as figuring out if the starter I have for tomorrow is any different than what I have used so far. It is very possible that the 2 starters I tried were for manual transmissions.

They were starters I had in the shed for emergency use only.

I'll have to call the local rebuild shop and find out what is what. I've taken the broken starters to get rebuilt. I'll have to make sure the heads are for the proper application.

I'm guessing this is my problem. I never really thought it was the bolts or washers. They were used OEM.
 
What happened to the original starter?,..that would be the right one for comparing.
A starter for a manual tranny will fit an AT aplication,but not the other way around cause of a slightly longer nose cone.
It might also be the starters you have were for a 6.2,there could be a diff there too,..not sure
I'm pretty sure it ain't the bolts that caused you grief.
 
On my 7.3 I swapped in a starter and the flywheel was in contact with the nose cone.....made a Scary 1/4" notch in the nose cone (good thing those cones are made out of some "soft" metal (Cast maybe?)........Turned out it was for the wrong application, either IDI, N/A, or automatic........(5 speed standard in my 94.5, PS "DI") Called him up, MAD as He!!, about the $900 Dual mass fly wheel, he gave me another unit and all was well, for His-Sake!


Maybe there is a part # stamped on it you can check?.......Or if you have your old one, put them side by side and match them up.


On mine you could clearly see, the one unit was about 2" longer than the correct one.




My 6.5 starter bolts don't have any washers.......You said yours does?
 
Brooklyn Tow said:
On my 7.3 I swapped in a starter and the flywheel was in contact with the nose cone.....made a Scary 1/4" notch in the nose cone (good thing those cones are made out of some "soft" metal (Cast maybe?)........Turned out it was for the wrong application, either IDI, N/A, or automatic........(5 speed standard in my 94.5, PS "DI") Called him up, MAD as He!!, about the $900 Dual mass fly wheel, he gave me another unit and all was well, for His-Sake!


Maybe there is a part # stamped on it you can check?.......Or if you have your old one, put them side by side and match them up.


On mine you could clearly see, the one unit was about 2" longer than the correct one.




My 6.5 starter bolts don't have any washers.......You said yours does?
Click to expand...
They all have washers originally on the bolts,the starter cone is aluminum, without washers the bolt heads will eat into the aluminum
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top