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Cracked head. What do you think about it?

How is that going to fix the crack? When the head gets hot the crack is still going to expand. The higher pressure exhaust gas during ignition is still going to work its way around the pipe.

I can see it might slow the gasses getting into the cooling chamber, but not stop it. Plus now you are getting no coolant to cool the area where micro air pocket caused the crack in the first place, replacing it with a huge air pocket.

Why is he milling the head? Did he drive the pipe then back cut and weld up the crack? Ive just welded the crack and had it hold without the pipe, but the labor time is rediculous for cutting, welding, shaping tempering, milling, retempering. On a rare head, ok. Not on a head you can find in a couple of days.

Maybe I'm being overly negative- but this is one I would have to see if he is just driving in the pipe.
 
This has been around for a LONG time now. Over 10 years that I know of at least. International diesel(or whatever they call themselves now) started out doing this because of all the 6.5 heads that crack between the seats.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
This has been around for a LONG time now. Over 10 years that I know of at least. International diesel(or whatever they call themselves now) started out doing this because of all the 6.5 heads that crack between the seats.
Click to expand...

Can you expand on that? I'm puzzled by how it works. If there is no welding and it eliminates the between valve crack issue- wouldn't it be worth it to do that when doing a fresh build before they crack?
 
Yep, seals (or ensures it remains sealed against future cracks) the water jacket. It's not uncommon for cylinder head shops that do a lot of 6.5 heads, to, pro-actively, drill all those passages & punch in the valve guide inserts - to eliminate comebacks/future problems.

A well respected, local cylinder head shop here in Kansas City did that process to my truck's heads. They had long-term 6.5 experience with the Frito-Lay 6.5 powered stepvan fleet. The shop would stand behind their work & the stock GM head's pressure/integrity reliability if this process was done. Can't recall the cost as it was over 9 years ago, but it wasn't enough additional $ to be pushing the process for additional shop profit margin.

I didn't see the cost-effective aftermarket or GEP head options available now, in 2007, so I went this route - can't complain as it's still running trouble free.
 
So you get cross flow between valve ports, but stops the coolant from boiling off. Not a perfect fix, but a good jury rig. Ok. Found this picture, and can see it now. At the top of the picture above red circle you can see the port they are driving the pipe into in between the valves port's coolant jacket.
image.png

If the heads cracked and I couldn't get another head, I would try it. But couldn't you install it with the head in place? If you have to remove the head, and pay for machining to cut it to seal afterward, is money better spent towards a new head?

A DIY hammer the pipe in while engine is still assembled, if it works, is a good cheap bandaid.

Head off, and you figure the area of the chamber, with the port facing upwards you could fill the port with hardblock or similar Crete material.
 
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That is such a good head work. Isn't it?
In Russia, no such repairs do not. Then a few questions.
Where to drill?
Maybe has someone the right template?
What is the size of the holes?
What is the size of the tube?
What is the material of the tube?
 
This is cool!
There were only three questions!
What is the size of the holes?
What is the size of the tube?
What is the material of the tube?
 
This is cool!
There were only three questions!
What is the size of the holes?
What is the size of the tube?
What is the material of the tube?
 
In comments he said it is a brass tube 10mm.
He didn't respond to drill bit size question. That was 1
Year ago. Click on his name, go to his home page and message him. He just put on 2 new videos February 16. Lives in Croatia, types in English.

To figure out drill bit size: You have to drive in the tube with a hammer. But not hard because look at the tool he used, and it did not damage the brass.

Old junk cast iron to practice on. Start with 8mm as Pilot then try correct bit size by chart below. Practice first! I do NOT know this is correct chart for this application. Starting point only!
image.png
 
Thank you Will!
Today I met a guy. He works for a company that makes POWDER WELDING. He proposed to try to make heads repair. I still have 2 heads with cracks. I think I have to try it. And it's not expensive at all!
 
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