millsroger
New Member
BTW, check your RPO codes for any chassis upgrades, mine surprised me.
Navigation
Install the app
How to install the app on iOS
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
More options
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Couple questions on my first diesel.
- Thread starter Meatman
- Start date
Meatman
My other vehicle has 2 Turbos!
Hitch or 5th wheel towing you are at 7k for the trailer with either tranny. Per GM.
I dont see this 33ft trailer weighing 1300 lbs....
So looks like its going to be a no go on this truck with 2 cars in it then...... damn.
millsroger
New Member
Not quite so fast, per my sig truck, it is tagged for 9000 GVW, and 17000 CGVW. Hitch is rated for 10000. The RPO codes are listed for mine--that kinda means that the parts are available from GM, OR, you should be able to do your own upgrades to at least that level. Big difference per GM is axle ratio, taller gears are de-rated. Your truck won't roll much pulling a hitch trailer so bigger swaybars won't help that very much.
Get a tranny temp gauge, and an EGT. Tranny limits, per other posts here, about 270 F, coolant limit 210, EGT limit 1100. Diffs and transfer case should be fine--I say--tow until you get to a limit temp and pull over to let it cool down.
Get a tranny temp gauge, and an EGT. Tranny limits, per other posts here, about 270 F, coolant limit 210, EGT limit 1100. Diffs and transfer case should be fine--I say--tow until you get to a limit temp and pull over to let it cool down.
Meatman
My other vehicle has 2 Turbos!
It does have an aftermarket (beefier) hitch on it and I have the 10Klb ball on it. My RPO coedes confirm HD 6.5, HD suspension and brakes, with 3.73 gears.
So with the beefier suspension and brakes with the HO engine would you say I would be OK for pulling the trailer I'd I add the gauges and larger oil coolers?
So with the beefier suspension and brakes with the HO engine would you say I would be OK for pulling the trailer I'd I add the gauges and larger oil coolers?
millsroger
New Member
Here as far as I am gonna go, 10k ball is one thing, hitch rate is annother. If you exceed either one you may have your trailer come loose or bend things. Consider that a dead weight pull is very different from the shocks of down the road travel. BTDT, had a 36' Bounder on a GM P30 with a pumped 454, as in twin turbo's, around 600hp. Towed a trailer with a Trail Blazer on it and a bunch of other stuff. Did not worry cause it had a 10k hitch and weight transfer bars. Ended up bending the rear frame horns. Weighed the trailer and it was 9k loaded. Problem was tounge weight was 1500 cause I loaded wrong. Hitches are rated at about 10% for tounge weight. So a 10k hitch expects 1000, I was over that by half.
Dead weight pull is why I suggest gauges, you got three limits--I think these are right 210 coolant, 1100 EGT and 240 for the tranny. You should be able to pull anything inside the hitch and ball ratings as long as you do not go past a temp limit.
Dead weight pull is why I suggest gauges, you got three limits--I think these are right 210 coolant, 1100 EGT and 240 for the tranny. You should be able to pull anything inside the hitch and ball ratings as long as you do not go past a temp limit.
millsroger
New Member
Forgot to add, with 373's your tranny is what may need xtra cooling. The diffs have enough miles on them so are not likely to over heat.
If you have posi try not to spin a tire--you could burn out the clutches.
If you have posi try not to spin a tire--you could burn out the clutches.
Meatman
My other vehicle has 2 Turbos!
It may not be something that you can explain over the Internet but...
How do you gauge tounge weight when you are loading a trailer?
How do you gauge tounge weight when you are loading a trailer?
millsroger
New Member
OK, might be some truckers that can explain it better but they can slide hitch and axles, you can't. Go weigh both ends of the truck empty with a known amount of gas. Gives you a start on it. Trailer load weight should be over axles not at the ends, opposite of semi trailers cause their axles are at the ends. Ball park guess at what you load to get 55/45 F/R to start. Weigh the rear axle of the truck with the loaded trailer hooked up. Weight diff is tounge weight. If light, make it 60/40. Do that enough times and you can get it right on without the scales--sometimes jumping onthe tounge to gauge spring loading is all you need to learn, or measure the hitch height empty vs properly loaded.