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couple questions on cranking the t-bars...

I think I'd leave it then as long as your side to side is even. Likely it was cranked some when you bought it.

that's kinda what I was wondering but have never been able to find any stock height measurements. I also measured in a weird spot the first time so it'd be tough to tell for sure. I went to the bottom of the chome on the front bumper right in front of the tires. The bolt on the drivers side was way further in than the passenger side but that doesn't necessarily mean anything I don't think. I just know there really wasn't a whole lot of rake to it to begin with.
 
stock picture....once again on gravel so it's tough to really tell much but this is pretty accurate for how the truck sat. I just always noticed the room in the front fender wells and thought that seemed excessive for stock height.

008-5.jpg
 
Cranking the torsion bars is not bad but you can go to far so make sure after you adjust you make sure you maintain at least 5/8"s between the UCA and frame stop. This is seen in the pic below

hd_front_OEsuspension.jpg




Also like Nick/Unit453 suggested a new upgraded shock will help the most because now you have changed the over all ride height pre-load and reduced the down travel at ride height so the OE shock is very loose in valving and even if you fix the length in lower mount or extension the truck will reach the full drop out fast and abrupt, harsh ride. A new shock, I really like the Bilsteins over the rest will provide a better valving while fixing the over all length and be the better bang for the buck.


Truck looks great by the way!!!:thumbsup:


That Nick sure knows his business!:thumbsup:
 
yeah, I did that both driving forwards and in reverse. It clears now but not by a whole lot. I trimmed the valance and front fender well plastic a little. What worries me is what happens when I pack those tires full of mud? That's why I'm thinking I need to crank those bars a tad more.

Just so you know, even if you max out your t-bars, the suspension will settle over time. I lost nearly 2" from mine in just 2 years of wear and tear. It seems odd but I started to notice a substantial rake that it was developing and I finally got around to measuring it. I lost 1.75" up front.

Before I got my Cognito kit, I had my bars maxed out. I thought it looked stout and everyone kept asking how much of a lift I had. Most were shocked when I told them it was stock suspension. You really should consider some Bilsteins from Nor-Cal Nick. They make such a huge difference in ride quality.

And dont worry, we're pretty damn good at trying to spend your money for you...):h

PM me your address and throw me 50 bucks and I'll get the blocks right out to you. You're gonna need longer u bolts but I might still have mine. I'll have to look around.

Or Nick could hook you up with the whole package. You might want to consider a Cognito leveling kit since we're on the topic of front end ride height. It'll keep the front end more or less inlined with the rest of the components and keep it from getting all outta whack. They're really not expensive.
 
how do you check these things for level? I went out and put 2 more turns on the bars. I'm stopping there no matter what. I measured to the center of the fender wells front to back and the back is showing 1" higher than the fronts. I'm going to take it onto a parking lot tomorrow and step back from it and eyeball it and see what it looks like. That drivers side bolt is way in there compared to the passenger so I'm not turning it anymore either way. I'm going to call this good I think unless the front looks a little too high in which case I'll take these last 2 turns out of it. I don't think I'll need the blocks either way.
I also forgot to measure the frame stop and pulled it back out into the driveway. I want to measure that stuff tomorrow to make sure I'm good there.
 
thanks....I had seen that info a time or two and the upper measurement is kinda confusing to me. Do I measure from the top (frame side) of that frame stop or the bottom ( outboard side) of that stop? Right now there's still quite a bit of room even measuring from the closest point. The lower bump stops though already look ~1/4" just by eyeballing it. I'm gonna go up a little more I think tonight and I'll make sure to measure those points.

Really the point of making sure there is room to move is the key point rather than being right on the money on the in side or out side of the frame stop. That is the key to the ride quality in the end and the most over looked section when people alter there suspension height. I will tell you when we build trucks we never see a spot on spec checking our stance from left to right between the torsion bar bolt adjusters vs. the fender vs. the frame vs. the UCA to frame stop, there is too much difference between all these key points but the idea is to make sure the truck sits level left to right and front to rear in stance you are looking for while maintaining the proper suspensions travel or movement so the ride quality does not go to hell.

Make sure the alignment is checked after any changes in height and also know there are domino effects to the steering at high working angles that will wear the idler and pitman arm so think about adding the Cognito steering braces to increase your steering life span. If you look at any of our leveling packages these are the components that make the packages and you at any time can add step by step as you feel you need to or knock it out all at once.

That Nick sure knows his business!:thumbsup:

Thank you:smile5: These trucks have such a small suspension green zone to work the best, helping members get in that point is the hard part to explain and I am always looking to make things easier. I really hope that pic helps people clue in on the key points when talk or explaining things.
 
Got my alignment today. I left the last 2 turns in it and love the stance of the truck. The place I got it aligned was a smaller mom and pop place here in town that cuts a deal if you buy your tires at discount to get their business. I was blown away with the professionalism and work they do. I usually work on all my stuff but if I ever need anything I'll be going back there. The guy that aligned the truck was probably 50ish and it took him forever. I wasn't in a hurry so it didn't bother me. After he was done I asked him if me cranking the bars gave him any trouble and he said that's what took him so long...he wanted to make sure it was right before I left. I would much rather wait a little longer for someone that wants to do it right vs getting in and out and it being borderline.
 
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