couple questions on cranking the t-bars...

[0rion]

3 full turns gave me 1".....does that sound about right?
I put a level on the frame and it's balls on front to back both sides...is that the proper way to check the truck for level?
Looks like I'm off a little less than 5/16" side to side (drivers side is higher). Big deal? Doesn't bother me one bit and I figure once I'm in the drivers seat I can take up some of that difference. Should I worry about that 1/4"ish?

I'm not wanting to go any higher than I have to.....I'll trim the valance if I need to for the new wheels. I know you guys aren't magic genie's and I'll find out soon enough but a 285 tire on a 16x8 with zero offset...am I gonna have trouble fitting these with just 1" of lift? I'm trying not to crank them any further than I have to because eventually (hopefully this winter or early spring) I'll be going with a lift so for right now I just need to fit the tires.



I realize these questions have been beat to death all over the web but it's nice to have some fresh or new points of view on things from time to time.

 

[Unit453]

You're gonna have to trim, especially with 16x8" wheels and 285's.

I would get another inch out of the t-bars and throw a block in the rear. It'll look good that way.

Here's a pic from a couple years ago, pre lift kit.

 

[0rion]

You're gonna have to trim, especially with 16x8" wheels and 285's.

I would get another inch out of the t-bars and throw a block in the rear. It'll look good that way.

I'll need to order blocks and shock extenders then. Maybe I can get by for a week like this until I can order those things.....looks like 2 alignments for me. I guess I could always tool around on the stock tires without the alignment until that stuff came in or have a 1" rake to the rear.

 

[Unit453]

You're not gonna need shock extenders either. I mean, they'll help but if you have any desire to replace your shocks to Bilsteins or Ranchos or something, dont waste your money.

 

[0rion]

think any local parts stores would carry the 1" blocks? Actually, there's a 4x4 place in Columbus I bet that has them. It's on my way to the tire place. Maybe I'll swing in and get the blocks there.

 

[Unit453]

I have a set of 1.5" blocks sitting right next to me. If you're interested, I'd be happy to send them to you. I'm not using them anymore.

 

[0rion]

I really appreciate the offer....let me see where I end up with the tires and finding blocks local if I have to. That's really going a little different direction for me. I only want to clear the tires for the time being until I figure out what I'm doing lift wise so I'm gonna try to keep from buying parts that I'll just have to take back off later down the road.

 

[Wrecker]

Ranchos are 0"-2" lift for the stock replacements. I don't remember about the Bilsteins.

 

[btfarm]

Shock extenders

5/8" long spacers I had. A piece of 1/2" pipe would do just as well.


I've been running 285s on stock PYOs since day one. I'm at 8-9 cranks on the T-bars and no blocks. Minor trim on the air dam.

 

[0rion]

got 'em on there. I'm going to trim some on the valance here in a few minutes. I could probably get away with not cranking them anymore but I might go up another half inch to an inch. I have an appointment friday to get it aligned. If I do go up with the bars and get it aligned but don't get the blocks in until next week will it need aligned again? Not sure why it would but thought I'd ask.

That brings me to my next question....Nick, can you pm me a price for the 1.5" blocks you have and will I need longer u-bolts? I'm not really sure how the blocks go in to be honest with you but it can't be that tough. I've pulled the rear in the firebird a couple of times but it's a completely different set up than this.

 

[Nor-Cal Nick]

Cranking the torsion bars is not bad but you can go to far so make sure after you adjust you make sure you maintain at least 5/8"s between the UCA and frame stop. This is seen in the pic below

Also like Nick/Unit453 suggested a new upgraded shock will help the most because now you have changed the over all ride height pre-load and reduced the down travel at ride height so the OE shock is very loose in valving and even if you fix the length in lower mount or extension the truck will reach the full drop out fast and abrupt, harsh ride. A new shock, I really like the Bilsteins over the rest will provide a better valving while fixing the over all length and be the better bang for the buck.


Truck looks great by the way!!!:thumbsup:

 

[0rion]

Cranking the torsion bars is not bad but you can go to far so make sure after you adjust you make sure you maintain at least 5/8"s between the UCA and frame stop. This is seen in the pic below

Also like Nick/Unit453 suggested a new upgraded shock will help the most because now you have changed the over all ride height pre-load and reduced the down travel at ride height so the OE shock is very loose in valving and even if you fix the length in lower mount or extension the truck will reach the full drop out fast and abrupt, harsh ride. A new shock, I really like the Bilsteins over the rest will provide a better valving while fixing the over all length and be the better bang for the buck.


Truck looks great by the way!!!:thumbsup:

thanks....I had seen that info a time or two and the upper measurement is kinda confusing to me. Do I measure from the top (frame side) of that frame stop or the bottom ( outboard side) of that stop? Right now there's still quite a bit of room even measuring from the closest point. The lower bump stops though already look ~1/4" just by eyeballing it. I'm gonna go up a little more I think tonight and I'll make sure to measure those points.

 

[btfarm]

Couple of things from my experience.
When you crank the T-bars it will definately throw off the caster due to rotating the pivot centerline back. The truck will wander. I would guess that the blocks will do the same thing to a degree. Obviously the camber will also be off at the same time.
My '05 Chev didn't need the air dam trimmed for the 285s but the GMC did. Both were exactly the same setup with BFG ATs so yours may be a bit different. Also both were on the stock PYO wheels.
BTW, I like the looks of your truck. Always did like that dusty blue since it came out. The more I see black wheels the more I like 'em.

 

[CtChevy427]

I like the look with the new rims and tires. The truck also has a nice stance. Before the truck hits the rack have your T bars where you want them. Be sure to check for rubbing in both both direction with full lock right and left.

 

[0rion]

I like the look with the new rims and tires. The truck also has a nice stance. Before the truck hits the rack have your T bars where you want them. Be sure to check for rubbing in both both direction with full lock right and left.

yeah, I did that both driving forwards and in reverse. It clears now but not by a whole lot. I trimmed the valance and front fender well plastic a little. What worries me is what happens when I pack those tires full of mud? That's why I'm thinking I need to crank those bars a tad more.

 

[btfarm]

How many rounds up are you? I've got mine at around 8-9 (whatever it took to get the height I wanted) so I'm about 1/2" lower at the front wheel center to the back as measured at the fender opening. You can go quite a way with them and set your cross height pretty close all around.

 

[0rion]

Couple of things from my experience.
When you crank the T-bars it will definately throw off the caster due to rotating the pivot centerline back. The truck will wander. I would guess that the blocks will do the same thing to a degree. Obviously the camber will also be off at the same time.
My '05 Chev didn't need the air dam trimmed for the 285s but the GMC did. Both were exactly the same setup with BFG ATs so yours may be a bit different. Also both were on the stock PYO wheels.
BTW, I like the looks of your truck. Always did like that dusty blue since it came out. The more I see black wheels the more I like 'em.

thanks.... I *think* they call it imperial blue metallic. Not positive on that but think I saw that listed as the color somewhere. I originally wanted a white truck because I think white looks great on these trucks. Found this one and thought it was a neat color and not one you see all the time....remind me of that when I try to track down touch up paint for scratches.
I also have never been a fan of black rims. I started out going to go all chrome on it all the way around but the more I looked at these rims ( and price tag ) the more I started liking them. After seeing them on the truck I'm pretty happy with my choice. I think they work pretty good on there.

 

[0rion]

How many rounds up are you? I've got mine at around 8-9 (whatever it took to get the height I wanted) so I'm about 1/2" lower at the front wheel center to the back as measured at the fender opening. You can go quite a way with them and set your cross height pretty close all around.

I went 3 full turns on each side last night and that got me 1" exactly. Thinking of doing 3 more tonight and seeing how it looks.

 

[btfarm]

I went 3 full turns on each side last night and that got me 1" exactly. Thinking of doing 3 more tonight and seeing how it looks.

The more you turn the less you get (compression increase) so don't expect another inch from 3 more. Actually your ride height looks pretty good as it is but it's hard to tell on gravel.

 

[0rion]

it's pretty close to level from what I can tell. I put a level directly on the frame below the doors and it was balls on. That was in the garage on concrete which should be pretty level.