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COOLING ISSUES

I still would suspect the water pump for the above reasons.

water wetter - I use it in everything. Can't say for 100% sure that it helps but it doesn't hurt.

A new condenser helped me along with a new radiator, high output water pump, 9 blade fan, 180 t-stat, and Kennedy clutch. Replacing the condenser has the fan running less but many fins were bent by a PO pressure washer mess…

You would not see the amount of coolant that it takes to ruin an engine in the oil. You have to sample it. Sample kits are cheap and so are the sample results.
 
will go to dealer to get the stat. and i have run fresh water through it and flush it out of the bottom hose bu nothing serious
 
Duallykid said:
will go to dealer to get the stat. and i have run fresh water through it and flush it out of the bottom hose bu nothing serious
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The radiator can plug with a white mineral build up on the tubes. If you have not already, inspect the tubes in the radiator. Look down the cap with low coolant if your design allows it – it should – or pull a hose.
 
okay so i got the new delco stat in, and i got on it. she warms up, and bookin it i run it up to 210, but it never went over, and it came back down every time, it took a min or two, but it came back down to 190-ish
 
I tried to blow the junk out of mine with a pressure washer. I thought I had done a good job until I pulled the radiator a few months later and saw all the junk that was between the oil coolers and condenser. To clean them right they need to be seperated and the radiator needs to come out.
 
Duallykid said:
is there any way i can clean it in the truck with HVAC coil cleaner?, like for cleaning outdoor units
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Its better than nothing.... I fear my tranny lines may break so I removed my grille and used scrubbing bubbles and simple green until run off was clear. (Which took upwards of 20 attempts or so letting the stuff sit in between hosings) I removed the fan shroud and fan so I could blast it both ways with hot water from washer machine hookup.

I can easily see through it now, couldn't before I started.

Too much stuff still in the way to get a 100% cleaning. removing it is the best way by far, plus your getting fresh coolant change.

I did it as prevention though. I can get mine to get into 200 by a good long hill... Anything higher fan clutch kicks on and it goes down to 190 instantly. Perhaps you should adjust your fan clutch a tad.
 
i think my fan clutch is bad, when i start the truck it's on immediately, not just spinning, but ON i rev it up and its definitely pulling air, it never shuts off
 
96 OILBURNER said:
If the fan is stuck on, you shouldn't have a much problem with heat.
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x2. Shouldn't have ANY problem with heat. Well it may take a long time to warm up.

Can you move the fan by hand or is it locked up tight?

Unless you're really fast, make sure the truck is off for the test :)
 
that dont make any sense to me either, i can move the fan by hand, but it's always drawing, i wonder if the fan isnt kickin in at all just tight on the pully
 
Duallykid said:
that dont make any sense to me either, i can move the fan by hand, but it's always drawing, i wonder if the fan isnt kickin in at all just tight on the pully
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You should feel some resistance moving it by hand.

It will spin with engine idling.

It needs to fully engage before 210 to keep things in check.

When it engages, you hear BAWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSH!!!!! No mistaking it.

If its not engaging it may be tired or calibrated too hot for 6.5 Engines (remember your temp gauge reads 260 as red) 210 SHOULD be RED.

Do Fan clutch mod.
 
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