COOLING ISSUES

[Duallykid]

i seem to be having trouble with my cooling system, a little while back i overheated the engine due to loss of coolant, i blew a gasket and started burning coolant, so i tore it down had the heads milled, got new felpro gaskets, and ARP head studs, it's running great but it seems to be doing something with the coolant other than retaining it, i have to top it off about every other day, it's not burning it, and i don't think it's leaking anywhere, i replaced that thermostat, and the over flow jug, and even the radiator cap... but it still runs up to 210 and coolant is disappearing, WHATS GOING ON, AND HOW CAN I FIX IT?!?!?

 

[matuva]

At cold, Is your upper rad hose growing hard after start ?
If it is you may have a cracked block, and should experience hydro lock (most of the time cyl # 8).

That being said, check T-stats and for leaky waterpump too...

 

[Duallykid]

no pressure build up, the water flows in the rad, no bubbles, where would it leak?

 

[matuva]

While idling, check the waterpump body, just under the shaft.
Watch under the truck if there is some kind of coolant pound

 

[Duallykid]

cold or warm?

 

[matuva]

In either case, but if the waterpump is leaky, it will leak stronger hot and under pressure

 

[Veg_Out]

What sort of thermostat are you running? GM is best I think.

 

[Duallykid]

if i'm not mistaken i replaced it with a stant 190 deg.

 

[Chevylover]

Try the 180°F RobertShaw style from KennedyDiesel. Got them in mine and never go higher than 185°F on the gauge, even while pulling about 5000 Kgs.


Cu,
Sven

 

[Duallykid]

well whats normal operating temperature?

 

[Matt Bachand]

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=12265&highlight=DIY+fan+clutch

Read that thread.. it may help you.

Normal operating range is above 180 and under 200 IMO. Depending on T-Stat.

When working it hard you don't want it over 210 IMO.

 

[Duallykid]

thank you. in 4th gear and i give it a little pedal it chugs rolls coal and the egts roll up to about 1000, and the engine temp rolls over 210

 

[Matt Bachand]

thank you. in 4th gear and i give it a little pedal it chugs rolls coal and the egts roll up to about 1000, and the engine temp rolls over 210

Well it shouldn't roll coal ever. Thats where the problem/heat is coming from.

Sounds like either your turbo isn't functioning properly or severe air restriction.

These aren't chugging engines, don't expect it to do much around 1200 rpm in 4th gear. They seem to sweet spot around 2100 rpms.

 

[Duallykid]

i forgot to say when it's warm the oil pressure is almost at 5-10 kinda scary, when i'm running it's around 20-25, and when it's cold it around 60 ish

 

[Matt Bachand]

i forgot to say when it's warm the oil pressure is almost at 5-10 kinda scary, when i'm running it's around 20-25, and when it's cold it around 60 ish

Could be a cheap/faulty OPS switch. Have you confirmed this with a mechanical gauge? I believe system calls for 10, so 5 would be low. You running Xw-40 weight oil?

Fill out your signature so we know what type of vehicle you have.

 

[Duallykid]

i run rotella t 15-40

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'd start by fixing the black smoke as Matt suggested and if that doesn't do it pull the rad and clean it, no I mean really clean it

 

[buddy]

loosing coolant and low oil pressure????

Cracked block or head getting water in the oil.

drain some of the oil and check it out.

 

[WarWagon]

I'd start by fixing the black smoke as Matt suggested and if that doesn't do it pull the rad and clean it, no I mean really clean it

loosing coolant and low oil pressure????

Cracked block or head getting water in the oil.

drain some of the oil and check it out.

No pressure build up means you need to find the leak.

The water pump seal will burn up without water to cool it. Frequently it will work after water loss, seal up, and randomly leak. This is because you have charcoal rather than the carbon seal... It can also suck air and air lock the water pump.

Black smoke is common for an overheating 6.5/6.2. It also can be due to turbo waste gate issues or not enough air.

The above advice is get an oil sample done ASAP and before you run the engine again. Coolant in the oil is the quickest way to ruin an engine. (It works better than the government issue clunker bomb!)

Cracks can leak hot only or cold only – they don’t always leak in some cases.

Check your radiator cap it may no longer seal.

Also the temp sender can be bad. You could be purging the coolant by overheating. New parts are not always good. Recheck stuff.

 

[Duallykid]

okay so i changed the oil... it was spotless, i used rotella t like i always do , and a quart of Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer, the pressure definitely went up, i'm runnin about 20 at idle and about 40 , balls to the wall, engine warm, the coolant tank was topped off and the rad was full, it got up to 210 at 85 mph 10 lbs of boost at 900 deg, EGT, and cooled back down to about 190 by the time i got home, and the coolant overflow didnt change,, i got two 12oz bottles of that "water wetter", is it worth using or should i take it back?