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Company Truck w/Trans issues

Thanks guys,

It does run and move, just shudders badly and is only a matter of time I assume before the trans does let go fully. It would be nice to step into something a little newer than the 6.5L era, but the cost of them and my knowledge from 7 years of owning one is worth a lot to me.

I will try and get some pictures of it today just for giggles.
 
Here they are:

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Not plugging my truck - just saying what a black hole vehicles can be. IMO it's worth travel to a state that doesn't have rust ESP. if you are going to put a lot into a vehicle like an engine or hot rod it. Again travel is cheap vs. body work from rust. If it wasn't for a recent engine then the elk committing suicide Patch would look a whole lot better. Without doing an engine before totaling it: patch would have been scrapped.
 
I honestly never fixed leaks/seaps until they got bad just for this reason. Nearly free (cost of adding minute amounts of fluid) rust protection.

I know these pictures make the rust look VERY bad to non-locals, however this truck is above average condition (rust wise) IMO for the age and living in CNY for 13 years. Most trucks of this era the rust is already chewing up the doors making the bottom of the cab look ragged. Rockers and cab corners are always the first to go, and for some reason on this vintage GM they never last. The frame is in surprisingly EXCELLENT shape. I guess I didn't realize (or have been spoiled by the low costs of 6.5L's) that the trans rebuild and some hard parts for the Duramax is so expensive. I will save all the labor, however you still have to think about putting some type of cost to that.

The inside of the truck is in way better shape than I originally though especially for a greasy mechanic getting in and out.
 
It looked like there is more coffee spilled on the center console than what He was getting in him. LOL
The one reason I wanted the 6.5 was the fact that injectors are cheap for these engines. Might be an IP rebuild would be a lot cheaper too.
 
Rot scares me.

I think I would try to find one in a rust free state with a bad motor, or try to buy it cheap and part it out yourself.

Just because a truck is not worth fixing does not make it worthless.

Unfortunately up here rot is inevitable. My dad purchased an 06 Silverado down in FL and brought it up. He drove it for a few years and it started rotting out badly. We were told that some of the cars shipped down south don't have the same type of undercoating as they do up here. Not sure if this is true or not but makes sense with how fast his cab corners and wheel wells rotted.

I bet I would be able to get this truck for $1.00 type of deal. However if I'm just going to part it out i'm not sure I want to get involved. Guess Id have to go see what some of those parts are going for on the market up here. On a side note I can't believe how much injectors are for these things....
 
What is undercoating? Haha, no it is not on all rigs.

Buy that truck for $1, make a deal with WW for him to part it out, Drive it to Az (or as far as you can before it goes on a hook) and drive back the one from him? Quick 30 minute drive, right? Haha

I have family that buys used cars/ trucks here and have undercoating sprayed on in shops for a couple hundo. Back there in salty snow world. 1 cousin told me he had a 4 door f250 (thats how many times a month you say the f word owning one) that they sprayed the bottom half of cab and bed with undercoating like an2 tone paint job. Said it was $500 to do that 2-3 years ago.
 
Everyone up here does that. Rhino lines from some crease a 1/4 way up the sides of the truck down. I personally hate that look, and from what I see it doesn't seem to slow anything down. I have seen some professional jobs done where they color match the lining that isn't as rugged as Rhino and that looks much better.

Was doing some looking of Duramax parts and the engine is worth about $1,500 (cores going for $1K, nice documented units going for $2K). The trans being nothing more than a core looks almost worthless. The T-case could be a couple hundred, and it seems like everyone in their brother is trying to sell axles, chassis and rotted out body panels.

I think the plan for right now will be to let it sit on the lot and stew over it. Winter and cold is coming quick and I sure don't want to be doing something like this.
 
Yeah, I was looking at the 05 the other day, and the rust is about to creep past the plastic flares in the back, the rockers are getting pretty crusty, and the front fender dog-leg is pretty rotten. Makes me sad how this shit deteriorates, even if you try to take care of it...
 
Yeah, I was looking at the 05 the other day, and the rust is about to creep past the plastic flares in the back, the rockers are getting pretty crusty, and the front fender dog-leg is pretty rotten. Makes me sad how this shit deteriorates, even if you try to take care of it...

Its all that road salt plus that chemical that they have been using eats up brake lines and everything. Everyone in my area claims rust has really accelerated since they started using the chemicals. Not sure maybe it is Calcium Chloride that they use. They always talk about a brine liquid but I know what they put down is pretty corrosive.
 
Everyone up here does that. Rhino lines from some crease a 1/4 way up the sides of the truck down. I personally hate that look, and from what I see it doesn't seem to slow anything down. I have seen some professional jobs done where they color match the lining that isn't as rugged as Rhino and that looks much better.

Was doing some looking of Duramax parts and the engine is worth about $1,500 (cores going for $1K, nice documented units going for $2K). The trans being nothing more than a core looks almost worthless. The T-case could be a couple hundred, and it seems like everyone in their brother is trying to sell axles, chassis and rotted out body panels.

I think the plan for right now will be to let it sit on the lot and stew over it. Winter and cold is coming quick and I sure don't want to be doing something like this.
If it's high milage, $1000-1500 is about all those in the know will pay for an lb7. Core 5 speeds normally fetch $500, a good low milage transfer cade WILL fetch at leadt $650, but many hold out for $800(and get it, I got $750 for mine with 165k miles on it). If you can find somebody doing a swap, you can normally get $3000-3500 for a COMPLETE donor because all the little odds and ends add up, and many doing swaps know this and will pay decent money for a complete donor.
 
If it's high milage, $1000-1500 is about all those in the know will pay for an lb7. Core 5 speeds normally fetch $500, a good low milage transfer cade WILL fetch at leadt $650, but many hold out for $800(and get it, I got $750 for mine with 165k miles on it). If you can find somebody doing a swap, you can normally get $3000-3500 for a COMPLETE donor because all the little odds and ends add up, and many doing swaps know this and will pay decent money for a complete donor.

Definitely some decent money to be had there. That would be the way I'd like to do it is complete donor. From the paperwork I have this engine was replaced at 150K miles, so it currently has about 275K on it.

Typically my company would sell their old trucks to the public for $500 and claim them as parts only. If an employee wants to buy it they will hand over the title. However I'm not sure if they would allow me to take the title and turn around and re-sell. I bet if I parted it out they would have no problem. I guess they see it as some type of liability thing.
 
I guess they see it as some type of liability thing.

Yes. Not the first or the last time something comes back on the seller. Broken frames are my favorite liability example of something you want scrapped rather than fixed by God knows who and still on the road. To be sure crush it...
 
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