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Cold Air Intake: My version

i did this last spring and i noticed a IAT drop from just having it open behind the head lights to when i closed it up. with the signal light out it was around a 30 degree drop, with the signal light in about a 15 degree drop driving on flat high way doing 100.
 
i did this last spring and i noticed a IAT drop from just having it open behind the head lights to when i closed it up. with the signal light out it was around a 30 degree drop, with the signal light in about a 15 degree drop driving on flat high way doing 100.

Good to know. Thanks for the info. I guess I need to get a scanner.What did you do to replace the signal light? Did you put mesh in or what?
 
Looks great. I've been thinking of the same thing.

One question: how much did you need to "adjust" the inner fender to get the battery to sitdown?

Got a pic of the underside of the fender?

Cheers.
Mike
 
oh i just take my light out for long trips or hauling for a lil extra economy i made a braket to aim the bulbs out. and as for notching the inner tub on the old site i have pics of it. all i did was cut up the battery tray and set it in flush with the top of the fender about an inch deep i beleave. its an easy job to weld that in water tight
 
Looks great. I've been thinking of the same thing.

One question: how much did you need to "adjust" the inner fender to get the battery to sitdown?

Got a pic of the underside of the fender?

Cheers.
Mike

Pretty simple, All I did was bash the top of the fender down flat, about 3/4 to 1 inch, so the battery posts wouldn't hit the hood, then welded up a tray for the batt. out of 1/2 angle and put a strap over the battery. Sorry, no pics, but the fender moved easily, and the battery looks like it belongs there. Clacks' method is also viable, never thought of cutting a hole. Good idea.
 
Yeah, i want to fabricate something up when i redo my engine. I cant weld however, but i like the idea of moving the battery. Im in a pickle right now because my neg. batt. cable is way nasty corroded and i have to wiggle it to get the truck started. But if i move the battery in another month i will have to buy another longer cable. I will also have new inner and outer fenders when i put the truck back together, so it will kinda suck to hammer it... I want it to look very professional, its going to get done right or not at all.
 
That's a nice looking setup, -I need to do something with mine before the summer temps get here.

I like how one of the first questions asked was "how much turbo whistle did you lose?" ):h

We're a sick bunch, -I think it's great!! :grouphug:
 
That's a nice looking setup, -I need to do something with mine before the summer temps get here.

I like how one of the first questions asked was "how much turbo whistle did you lose?" ):h

We're a sick bunch, -I think it's great!! :grouphug:

Absolutely!:thumbsup:
 
Yeah, i want to fabricate something up when i redo my engine. I cant weld however, but i like the idea of moving the battery. Im in a pickle right now because my neg. batt. cable is way nasty corroded and i have to wiggle it to get the truck started. But if i move the battery in another month i will have to buy another longer cable. I will also have new inner and outer fenders when i put the truck back together, so it will kinda suck to hammer it... I want it to look very professional, its going to get done right or not at all.

Do the battery bolt mod. Will lock that termanal, (and the other 3) nice and tight. Regardless if they are stripped out or not.

Search for 'battery mod' or 'bolt mod' or 'batter bolt mod' if you don't know what to do.

Cost you a whopping 5 bux if that.
 
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