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Codes 18, 35, and 54

Was at the office for about 3 hours and when she started up to go meet with a client she still had the codes. Drove/ limped to my appointment and met the clients for about 45 minutes and guess what- the codes had vanished. She ran great on the way back to another meeting. Sat for about 10mins and still no codes.

All the other vehicles I have been around once they a code it does not go away until the issue is fixed unless it an emission code like say an egr code. The code will flash when it faults and once the fault is gone so is the light. Seems odd it would set three codes severe enough to cause it to be almost undriveable and the next second be fine. Thoughts? Electrical Gremlins?
 
I told ya... PMD.

Mine did exactly that until I changed it out. Once they start to get flaky, they turn female. When they want to, they work fine. But if you start expecting them to behave rational, look out.
 
JiFaire said:
I told ya... PMD.

Mine did exactly that until I changed it out. Once they start to get flaky, they turn female. When they want to, they work fine. But if you start expecting them to behave rational, look out.
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The original (fisrt to code) PMD that was in in it had less than 6k and was less than 2 months old. It currently has a brand new PMD in it... still coding with a brand new PMD. I also tried a third spare PMD (tested good) and it still coded. I will pull a 4th PMD from another truck and lets see what happens.
 
It's a Conspiracy Maaaaannnn . . . Little D, Gary, Lary, Moe, Joe, Shemp, and Curly are snickering as they plan-out how to best mess with you :rof: They might stop if you rescue their cousin in Ashburn :hihi:
 
JayTheCPA said:
It's a Conspiracy Maaaaannnn . . . Little D, Gary, Lary, Moe, Joe, Shemp, and Curly are snickering as they plan-out how to best mess with you :rof: They might stop if you rescue their cousin in Ashburn :hihi:
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Where is Ashburn? I will go save him now! :D:hihi:

You guys are probably right and it is the PMD. I have however had vehicles in the past that had an unusual diet for electrical parts/ sensors. Had a TBI 4.3 S-10 Blazer that ate ignition modules... we just carried one in the glove box. Never did understand why buy it went through about two a year. Seems odd and frustrating that new/ relatively new parts go in succession without a root cause. Maybe I am just due. I have over 3 years and 100k+ of mileage on 5 different 6.5 trucks and I have never had any PMD issues. Been around or operated several other 6.5s through different jobs and they were all fine. I guess I am way over due for the curse of the PMD. Hopefully I will satisfy Larry's craving for PMDs with an offering of a fourth PMD!:hihi:
 
JayTheCPA said:
A *lot* closer than crossing the Mason-Dixon ;) NoVa between Reston and Leesburg. Easy run up 29 from Mineral :) If you leave now, can get home by dinertime :D
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LOL!:hihi:

It made the classic bad PMD move today. No codes, then started it and it stalled. Then I got the codes. Can't believe it. The PMD is a brand new grey Standadyne I took off of the brand new pump and stuck in the glove box. No wonder they replaced so many pumps under warranty. When I googled those codes the consensus was the IP was bad from most places. I guess I will rob Gerties PMD until I get a chance to get another one. It also weird the Flight Systems PMD went with only 6k and a couple of months. I also have a DTech PMD that coded as well. I guess Larry likes to eat PMDs!:D
 
If it 'seems' to be eating PMDs, check your wiring harness and connections. Your harness has an RF filter in it that you can just remove and toss. The other thing you might do is put some clear tubing on the return line from the IP and see if there are any bubbles in the fuel returning to the tank (tells you that you have an air leak on the pressure side)
 
JiFaire said:
If it 'seems' to be eating PMDs, check your wiring harness and connections. Your harness has an RF filter in it that you can just remove and toss. The other thing you might do is put some clear tubing on the return line from the IP and see if there are any bubbles in the fuel returning to the tank (tells you that you have an air leak on the pressure side)
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Thanks Jim. I tossed the RF filter awhile back and I have clear tubing on the IP to the return manifold/ hardline.

The pieces of the puzzle are coming together. I have been having a mystery rattle after the truck sits and idles in traffic. I also have having the fuel drain down sometimes alot and sometimes a little (as visible in the return line). Once she starts and runs awhile there is no visible air in the return line. The ffm was leaking and I fixed it. It has also been starting hard lately. On Saturday I changed the oil and happened to notice the return line that goes from the back of the block, on top of the trans, to a fitting in the line around the LP is "weeping" fuel. Not enough to drip/ puddle on the ground but it is damp with fuel. Never seen one go bad so when I inspected the fuel lines for leaks I was looking at the fuel lines on top of the motor. I did look it over when I bought the truck as a general inspection and it was dry.

I did not think the issue could be connected to the PMD issue so I did not mention it. I guess it makes sense... the harder the drivers have to work the shorter the PMD lifespan due to increased heat. Thanks. I knew there was a logical reason for everything. I also knew the "rattle" was somehow connected. Not looking forward to r&r of those lines and the fitting/ joint were they meet looks rough... might have to go back to the sending unit on the tank with all new.

I could not see the forest for the trees... thanks again for the help!
 
Doing an R/R of the lines isn't that hard, just a bit of a PITA.
Hint - get some good goggles to keep the crap out of your eyes that you knock off the top of the trans.
Hint #2 - make sure the hose you get is diesel-fuel line. The stuff degrades regular hoses.

If you think the PMD is getting fuel starved, put an upstream pressure gauge on the water drain line and drive around. Use about 6' of hose, run it out from under the hood and tape it to a wiper blade so you can see it while driving. You should always have positive fuel pressure, even under lots of load. If you don't, suspect fuel system blockage (FFM, Filter, in-tank sock, etc) and lift pump (OPS relay, fuse, etc)

Troubleshoot logically, fix cheap stuff first when you gotta guess, and do one thing at a time.
 
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