Changing Hydraulic filter kubota CTL SVL75-2. Filter stuck - super tight suggestions

[schiker]

I am changing the hydraulic filter on neighbor's CTL and the filter is stuck. I am suspecting I am doing something wrong. Does hydraulic system pressure need to be bled or relieved first?

How would I do this? Lower arms/bucket then pull trigger on joystick to float bucket? Do I need to plug something into aux lines? Any other thing to do?

With new machines when you cut off the machines the hydraulics lock and goes into park. Does this cause hydraulics to lock down again????

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I used a C hook spanner and it seemed to grip the filter good and it didn't budge trying it. So I put a cheater on it and it stripped off the only tooth I can get the spanner onto so its dang tight.

I am going to order a new C hook adjustable style spanner that I hope to be able to get to another notch. Also, going to try either a chain wrench or strap wrench too to add more torque.

I have thought about wrapping the filter with friction tape then using a couple of hose clamps to tighten down to make a tooth for the new spanner wrench. OR use the hose clamps to be able to hit a drift to help loosen it while using strap wrenches. The notches in the filter don't leave much access for a helper to be able to hit them at at a good angle.

Suggestions? Looking online I see suggestions for end cap filter wrenches that are suppose to grip well. Brand suggestions?

 

[jrsavoie]

I'd plug the block heater in for a couple hours.
That's always seemed to help me out.

I had a 4 x4 adapter that would not budge.

After a few hours with the block heater plugged in. It came out with ease.

 

[jrsavoie]

I am changing the hydraulic filter on neighbor's CTL and the filter is stuck. I am suspecting I am doing something wrong. Does hydraulic system pressure need to be bled or relieved first?

How would I do this? Lower arms/bucket then pull trigger on joystick to float bucket? Do I need to plug something into aux lines? Any other thing to do?

With new machines when you cut off the machines the hydraulics lock and goes into park. Does this cause hydraulics to lock down again????

---------
I used a C hook spanner and it seemed to grip the filter good and it didn't budge trying it. So I put a cheater on it and it stripped off the only tooth I can get the spanner onto so its dang tight.

I am going to order a new C hook adjustable style spanner that I hope to be able to get to another notch. Also, going to try either a chain wrench or strap wrench too to add more torque.

I have thought about wrapping the filter with friction tape then using a couple of hose clamps to tighten down to make a tooth for the new spanner wrench. OR use the hose clamps to be able to hit a drift to help loosen it while using strap wrenches. The notches in the filter don't leave much access for a helper to be able to hit them at at a good angle.

Suggestions? Looking online I see suggestions for end cap filter wrenches that are suppose to grip well. Brand suggestions?

I'd crack a line and make sure there's no pressure on the filter

 

[WarWagon]

I am changing the hydraulic filter on neighbor's CTL and the filter is stuck. I am suspecting I am doing something wrong.

This could get expensive. Is the filter head assembly readily available in case it goes "SNAP!" or strips? Does the filter absolutely need to be changed?

The next thing that can give way is the filter can coming off the filter base plate leaving that stuck on the filter head. If it comes all the way off rather than spinning and then leaking. That would be air chisel time...

 

[MrMarty51]

Put the bucket down then with the engine shut down, key in run position, in case the hydraulics is electronicaly activated, shove and jiggle the hydraulic levers to be sure that the bucket and ancillaries are in float position and all pressure is relieved.
A lot of the newer hydraulic systems run with some tank pressure. Crack open the tank filler cap for the just in case.
I have had some mighty tight filters in my career.
I have one of those band style filter wrenches with a handle. Handle is not long enough for some good leverage.
Where the handle pin is located, on my old filter wrench, is enough room to slip a small prybar into that slot, then use the prybar for the handle.
Try to not use a chain wrench. Usually the chain is narrow and will crush the filter.
If the filter canister tears loose from the base, then You have those slots that fluid flows through to use a nice adjustable spanner wrench on, or, use a chisel, get a good notch started on the edge then use a larger size punch and using the chisel notch for grip, drive the base around until it spins offt by hand/

 

[schiker]

Thanks. I did see a YouTube of a guy suggesting the controls wiggle for a kubota mini excavator for relieving aux pressure to plug in hoses. Watched some reviews on filter wrenches. If it comes to the base only I saw a tool called the filter Talon.

The filter itself is heavy and smooth round on end not the kind with ridges or flats. The canister is thicker than a normal oil filter. But yeah, sorta worried about chain wrench crushing. Strap wrench can also tend to dent side. Will take care. Thought about trying to put something under chain wrench. In my minds eye I think of taping some wide cushion “feet”under chain but not sure what.

I thought of the hose clamp thing but have never tried it. Recently had a tight filter my strap wrench would slip I wrapped some masking tape around filter for a little extra grip and that helped. Hoping friction tape is better. Also, thought about using a piece of grippy thin rubber under hose clamps. I have some wide heavy duty black ranger rubber bands or steal the jar opener rubber grippy thing from the kitchen.

It is humbling to struggle with a filter. Just maintenance I can take my time try a few new tools & tricks. Try and learn a few techniques before I destroy it.

I guess luckily, it is a remote filter head. I can remove mount in a vice then cut dremel, grind, pry, chisel off. Hope it doesn’t come to that.

With the fourth and vacation next week going to relax wait for tool delivery and thought I’d chat about ideas.

 

[schiker]

Oh and the tank has a vent thru a filter element so don’t think it’s under pressure but will remove cap too just in case.

 

[MrMarty51]

I once forgot to vent a hydraulic tank on a Case loader.
Once the plug was removed, there is no putting it back against 15 PSI of pressure.
Ever wonder how big a mess about 30 gallons of hydraulic oil can make ? No, I have no pictures.

 

[Will L.]

Hydraulic filters are not on the pressure side. They are in a return loop.
Most hydraulic systems go into thousands of psi, at minimum a couple hundred.
Filters withstand about 125 max - USUALLY.
Still a good idea to dump pressure via controls first. Yeah you can crack the line feeding it too.

A bit of brake cleaner to clear debris away before removing never hurts. Clean the filter too, dry it then a wrap of 10mil electric tape for the strap (or chain) wrench to get traction.
Ya wouldn’t be the first guy to destroy the filter taking it off. Some folks think the tighter the better unfortunately.

I have had to use an air chisel to get some off working yellow iron. If the base breaks from it- that isn’t the fault of the guy removing it…

 

[smokymtn65]

The one on my tractor seems tighten itself .. I have had to crush it with a strap wrench twice.

 

[schiker]

~ 2000 psi x 3.14x 1.75^2 ~ 20, 000 lbs force. Yeah, Probably not system pressure. But will relieve in case it has any residual. When I shut down I thought I giggled the controls out of habit but it’s a super easy electric or piloted ??? controls. Could not see or feel any bucket settling like on a manual spool valve. Wondered about the locking system on shut down.

Had watched a few videos and no one mentioned relieving pressure. Saw a u video comment guy broke a spanner wrench. Seems Kubota has somewhat of reputation for factory tight fasteners & filters.

Yeah, I bought some of the friction type electrical tape not the super 33 or 88 stuff. Asked Home Depot today and they didn’t have a good sticktion workmat pad. I do have a yoga band that is stretchy and sticky. Still investigating options.

 

[schiker]

The hydraulic system has 3 filters 2 in tank 1 paper filter (this one). It might be on some forced recirculating cooler loop that is on a holding system or checked loop?????? The 75-3 hydraulic filter has a welded? nut on bottom of filter can. Probably had some complaints.

 

[jrsavoie]

Maybe a magnetic pan heater on the filter.

 

[MrMarty51]

I try to grip filters as close to the filter adapter as is possible.

 

[schiker]

Well I'll say it was on tight. Not likely to get this filter off with avg filter or even really good oil filter wrenches. It took some real torque to get it off. I floated the bucket and it did not seem to be under any pressure.

We ended up using a different brand of hook spanner, OMT, with a 3 ft cheater on it while also using an end cap style wrench with 1/2" drive telescoping ratchet. Two people torquing it off and it loosened.

The large red handle hook spanners didn't seem to fit as well and although I think it was an ok fit it just didn't bite as well as the large OMT adjustable hook spanner. The large OMT spanner seemed to get a cleaner torque on it.

These filters compress an Oring and tighten till metal to metal contact. Its not like an oil filter square-ish gasket.

There is no real way to tighten the new filter with a spanner wrench either need a good strap wrench or end cap wrench. It was a PITA.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

Our equipment filters are very tight, I use a chain wrench on the big filters...

 

[jrsavoie]

Wife's LX2610 is 10 hours past due.

Should have had it picked up and serviced.

I'm not excited about dealing with the hydraulic dump.