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CDR What do you think?

buddy

Active Member
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Location
California, central coast
I just took the CDR out of the valve cover, put the grommet on the oil fill and shoved the CDR into the grommet. Its a nice snug fit too. It hits the hoodliner but doenst seem to be an issue. I used a 3/4" heater hose to connect the CDR to the intake elbow, just had some 1/2" pipe I cut and put into the ends of the 3/4" hose to clamp down on. I left the breather on the valve cover too, and vapors still come out from there at idle. I get a lot of vapor out the oil fill tube, never caused me grief though.

CDR_Oil_Fill.jpg
CDR_Oil_Fill3.jpg
 
It wont suck oil out the top of the fill tube, like it can out of the valve cover. And wouldnt the vacuum be better placed at the high point in the system between the heads? gmctd posted before that old 6.2s did pull from the oil fill tube, so I just put my CDR there.
 
IMO,Aint gonna change dick all,just makes it harder to add oil.
That's where the 6.2's had the CDR feed line from originally,just below the fill cap.
You better of to vent that thing to the atmosphere(illigal in CA i presume):rolleyes5:
 
The heater hose isn't oil resistant and will get mushy very fast. If you have a good working cdr valve and not a outragous amount of blow-by ,I don't understand the purpose of it. Venting to the atmosphere isn't as good as sucking the fumes out. Some high perf. engines run a vacume pump to suck the vapors out.
 
I have my CDR venter to the atmosphere. I ran a hose from the CDR down the back of the engine into the frame rail and then ended it there, A little oil in the frame never hurt anything, My intake is as clean as the day I rebuilt the motor, I like that.
 
I was venting to atmosphere before, for a long time with the heater hose on it and its not mushy yet, will change it eventually.

I never add oil, never need to, except when I change it after 5k or 6k miles, so thats not an issue, plus it comes right off as fast as the oil cap.

I like the idea or burning the blow-by, why not? burning fuel vapors. Although I will never buy a CDR again, what a ripoff, would rather vent then.

I did notice some higher oil pressure when I switched to venting, and I had good pressure already from 50-70 psi.

I definately wanted to stop the oil in the intake, which is why I vented and now hope this way is still minimal. I did have a lot of oil in the intake even with functional CDR, but I do have a lot of vapors, fuel or oil.
 
The whole purpose of the closed system and the CDR is to keep a low level vacuum in the crankcase. ( 1-5 inches of water column IIRC) this keeps pressure off the oil seals and gaskets , reducing oil leaks and of course capturing the blowby and burning it in the engine.

If your air inlet to the turbo or intake manifold (depending on TD or N/A) is very very sloppy with oil then you have other issues such as rings etc.

If all things are well with the engine there should be very little oil pull over.

MGW
 
IMO,Aint gonna change dick all,just makes it harder to add oil.
That's where the 6.2's had the CDR feed line from originally,just below the fill cap.
You better of to vent that thing to the atmosphere(illigal in CA i presume):rolleyes5:


Illegal to fart in CA......

Interesting Buddy.... Wish your buddy GMCTD would have a look see!
 
I have my CDR venter to the atmosphere. I ran a hose from the CDR down the back of the engine into the frame rail and then ended it there, A little oil in the frame never hurt anything, My intake is as clean as the day I rebuilt the motor, I like that.
X2 Slim,45.000 km ago on my wife's truck, no issues:thumbsup:
 
So far, I've never had to have a diesel inspected for smog equipment compliance, but i don't have a new truck with soot trap fire starter or warranty. Even 2 years ago, when I was fleet mgr for a construction erosion control outfit, the CHP (Calif hiway patrol, for younguns that never saw CHIPS) did the biannual inspections, they never said anything about no mufflers, just brake adjustments and safety equipment. God, I wish Texas would revolt and take over this socialist state.
 
Yeah, no emissions checks for diesels, funny huh. They wont let you buy a new passenger diesel truck in CA, and people that have them have to pay high registration fees. Luckily I am registered in IL, no emissions checks there either.

CA is planning to start checking 97+ diesel trucks, OBD2. Imagine the revenue they can generate by adding fees.
 
Yeah, no emissions checks for diesels, funny huh. They wont let you buy a new passenger diesel truck in CA, and people that have them have to pay high registration fees. Luckily I am registered in IL, no emissions checks there either.

CA is planning to start checking 97+ diesel trucks, OBD2. Imagine the revenue they can generate by adding fees.

"IT's not a diesel" I hear Arnold saying it now!
 
Yeah, no emissions checks for diesels, funny huh. They wont let you buy a new passenger diesel truck in CA, and people that have them have to pay high registration fees. Luckily I am registered in IL, no emissions checks there either.

CA is planning to start checking 97+ diesel trucks, OBD2. Imagine the revenue they can generate by adding fees.
maybe time to start taxing people emissions:shiiiiiite::smile5:
 
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Interesting Buddy.... Wish your buddy GMCTD would have a look see!

This older post from gmctd came up today so I figured I post the info here too

I charge the batt's on my truck once a month, prime the fuel line, fire it up to see if the old thrill is still there - today I re-noticed two things of import, one the CDR configuration, the other relating to the current threads on fan clutches, fans, cooling, etc

The '90's CDR system has been in service since ~1986 in several similar forms, but all configured with the tuna can on the turbo-side valve cover, with an internal pre-coalescing screen like a section of 3M pot-scrubber, rubber hose to metal tubing to the compressor housing, short articulated rubber hose to the compressor inlet - not bad until the first time the intake plenum is opened, then whaddamess!! Even worse, if a charge-air cooler has been added, knowing that mess has also taken up residence in that expensive heat exchanger, and no way to clean it, easily - cheer up, folks: relief is at hand, in two forms

Firstly: the early 6.2L CDR system consisted of an oil filler tube with breather port, an internal splash shield covering the timing train, rubber hose connected to the CDR can, with several other hoses\tubes connecting the CDR to either side of the dual-plane intake plenum - ??????? - remember, there were no production line 6.2L turboDiesel engines produced - so what, you ask, with no attempt at disguising your feigned interest - well, a deja vu event occured back around the middle of the new century: all the current 6.5LTD's rolling off the production line have reverted to that original CDR\CCV system, front-mounted, connected to the oil filler tube rather than the valve-cover - guess what: much less oil in the mist exiting that location, far from the turbine snail - remember: hot oil vaporizes easily.

Now, how did I get to this point from tinkering with my truck today? I recently spent much time with a neighbor's very sick '83 6.2L Suburban with over 300kmi on the clock - in the process of timing chainset, seals, IP, injectors, etc, I upgraded the old beastie to the current CDR configuration, as the old parts were unavailable locally - now, being an educated opportunist with some hidden agenda, I confiscated the old stuff, cleaned it up, and with some mixing of old and new parts, most of the modified '83 front-draft system now resides in my charge-air cooled truck - waiting is the blank turbo-side valve cover, to be installed at some as-yet undisclosed opportunity - we shall see how fares the soggy mess with the '06 CDR configuration if I ever start driving it again - also:

Secondly: the Mann Provent CCV filter\scrubber is a cannister that fits between your CDR and the turbo compressor - it absolutely removes 99% of the oily content from the oily crankcase effluent, sends the scrubbed remainder thru the turbo, the oil precipitates back thru the drain and into the crankcase - good news: it is EPA certified, as FoMoCo has authorized dealer-installation on all Diesel vehicles not so-equipped from the factory - I've been running one on my turbocharged and charge-air cooled Jeep Liberty CRD for over 9mos, and the inlet hose from the CCV is oily, the drain hose is oily, but the hose to the turbo inlet plenum is dry - try it, you'll like it

Nextly, and lastly: I have also been considering reverting the engine back to the serp belt configuration, having all the associated parts stashed away for posteriority's sake (this would also involve a new very large air-dam front bumper to alleviate engine-bay turbulence created by the Dana60 front-axle) - again, the thought crossed my mind to look into the electric clutch used on the high-end Tahoe's and such - they can be found on eBay every so often, and are available on-line and from Mr Goodparts - they attach to the waterpump, but have a stabilizing harness bracket and wires attached which connect to the engine harness - I have pics and maybe a pn somewhere on this PC - if I can find them and remember how to post pics, I will do so - I'm thinking the only hassle may be the larger diameter shaft in the 6.5L waterpump, but that ain't no hill fer a stepper.........................
 
Thanx for the repost; Been looking to reroute the CCV.
Concerned about the deposits on the intake valves dropping off if they start to dry out (without the humid oil breath).I've run "draft tube" before but with 220K, I'm back to stock keeping the oil from leaking (as bad).
Wish I could afford the Provent; maybe I could clone it?
 
Why not use a PCV from the oil filler tube to the intake elbow? Or even a line from the oil filler to an exhaust evacuation valve mounted in the downpipe right after the turbo? You think this would work simular to the CDR?
 
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