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CDR Valve replacement

Haha, I'm trying not to be a douche like most people in this town Bison

Where u from near peace river?

I am going to check for the blow by when I turn the truck on to leave work this evening, is this best to check at startup or when the engine is warm?


The hose isn't much of a concern, I can scrape together a piece of hose if I cannot clean this up enough
 
Haha, I'm trying not to be a douche like most people in this town Bison

Where u from near peace river?

I am going to check for the blow by when I turn the truck on to leave work this evening, is this best to check at startup or when the engine is warm?


The hose isn't much of a concern, I can scrape together a piece of hose if I cannot clean this up enough
It has nothing to do with being a douche, but all with common sense.;)

I'm in the bush 40 km SE of Peace River
 
i dont understand common sence with diesel engines... i have used them lots with work, but never really had to do anything but change gears lol

i bought this truck so i could get into a camping trailer eventually, and i wanted something that would be able to tow well, and get good mileage while doing it..

then about 2 months after i bought the truck we got a trailer lol, just worked out well i guess..

i was a little dissapointed with the performance going up the hills (had to get to 3rd gear going up the watino hill eastbound when we went to 5 star in june, decided i need to get a little more out of this puppy, but with the 90 or 100L tank the truck has, i get almost 400kms before i have to fuel up, so that is nothing to complain about.

but before i start going to performance, i want to fix and maintain the truck first, so trying to eliminate oil leaks is where i am starting :D

when you say vent to atmosphere, how does one accomplish this? i would assume just plumbing a hose with a vent filter on it somewhere and plug the line going into the turbo?

hmmm, what benefits would this provide?
 
i dont understand common sence with diesel engines... i have used them lots with work, but never really had to do anything but change gears lol

i bought this truck so i could get into a camping trailer eventually, and i wanted something that would be able to tow well, and get good mileage while doing it..

then about 2 months after i bought the truck we got a trailer lol, just worked out well i guess..

i was a little dissapointed with the performance going up the hills (had to get to 3rd gear going up the watino hill eastbound when we went to 5 star in june, decided i need to get a little more out of this puppy, but with the 90 or 100L tank the truck has, i get almost 400kms before i have to fuel up, so that is nothing to complain about.

but before i start going to performance, i want to fix and maintain the truck first, so trying to eliminate oil leaks is where i am starting :D

when you say vent to atmosphere, how does one accomplish this? i would assume just plumbing a hose with a vent filter on it somewhere and plug the line going into the turbo?

hmmm, what benefits would this provide?
Climbing up the smoky river hill in third gear and pulling a trailer is nothing to be shamed about with these 6.5 diesels but getting only 400 km out of a tank of fuel is rather poor mileage.
I can get from my place back and forth to Grand Prairie crossing the smoky by Watino twice with a 1/4 tank to spare and I do that pulling 12000+ lbs with my 98,

Venting to the road is rather easy, Attach a 1" hose to the tubing above the turbo coming from the CDR and route it down to below the axle.
Just put a plug in the rubber turbo elbow. No filter needed.
Benefits are,. saving your crank seals from leaking cause there ain't no longer excess crank case pressure and you keep the oil were it belongs and not gets pulled over in the intake and foul up the valves.
It also cuts down on the oil burning if you happen to have lots of blow by.
 
i did the blow by test method mentioned by AK back a few posts, it was right after firing the truck up after work and was about -15 or so, and checking from the oil fill tube, there didnt appear to be any vapors coming from it? i think i did it properly, not sure if the engine should be cold or warm to do this properly :S

im not exactly a mechanic :p

when you are towing your 12,000lbs what speed are you averaging, and what rpm while cruising?

i try to keep it at around 90 - 100 km/h and about 2000rpm i think? sheesh i cant remember rpms now for some reason...
 
Best way to test is with a manometer hooked up to the dipstick tube.
Other way to test it is to put a piece of clear tubing with one end over the dipstick tube and the other end in a bottle water.
With engine running the water should pull a couple inches up the tubing, if it blows bubbles in the bottle then you have more blowby than the CDR can handle without oil pull over to the intake.

i normally drive close to the speed limit with trailer or not.on the flat at around 1800-2000 RPM and 6 to 8 lb of boost.
On a steep slope like by Watino i try to get as far up the slope as possible with the pedal to the metal till the truck down shifts to third and some times second if loaded heavy. Then I keep the RPM at 2000ish with the boost pegged at 15 psi and the pyro still before the yellow.
Whoever is behind me can bloody well wait till i crest the hill.;)
 
I think my truck with tons of blowby would still pass the water test. I'm not convinced that's a very good test.
 
I will check her again tomorrow all warmed up, and perhaps rig a hose/tube and try the water test. Can't hurt to try both lol.


What's the thoughts on low range? What are some obvious steps to check so I could lessen fuel consumption?
 
I think my truck with tons of blowby would still pass the water test. I'm not convinced that's a very good test.

X2.:D My 95 Chevy C1500 passes that test and smokes like a train. I have started pushing oil past the rear main and she pushes the dipstick up about 1" under normal driving. You guys have seen the vids I posted she runs strong. I tried venting to the atmosphere and she will push oil out of the dipstick. :eek: Not alot of oil in the manifold but the tailpipe is crusty. No head gasket issues either. Not sure what the problem is. She has 174,000 on the clock and has been this way for about 40,000 miles. It has been getting, very slowly, worse. The pushing oil past the rear main seal is a new development. Once I get the 6.2 rebuilt for the 95 K2500 GMC I am going to take her down.... I figure she is a ticking time bomb.

:hijacked: Sorry about the hijacking! :agreed:
 
its all good chevypoor, the more discussions i read about this, the more i can learn! :D

i was kinda thinking along the lines of changing the injectors anyways, maybe i should start pricing this out.

if it is going to get me better mileage, it should be worth the cost no?

lol
 
Injectors will pay for themselves. Some more power is a bonus. Bosch. Getting them so they are balanced within 25 psi of each other is ideal. Do not get sucked into the "adds 40 hp" add. Post what you find before you buy.

Leroy- injector deals?
 
dont worry bison, truck will look better when i am done playing with it!

i talked to a guy who bought the marine injectors from SS Diesel, and it cost him $650ish i believe shipped to his door.

doesnt sound too shabby, but i suppose i can price out some locals, which im sure will be over priced :rolleyes5:
and check the internets for pricing...

any canadian folks suggest a route for getting injectors?

thanks guys
 
I rebuild my own but Try Northern diesel in Dawson creek.
Don't know his prices but he is closest to you.
Don't fall for the Azian imports at any price.
 
Youse guys recommend the marine injectors?

As is right now I don't think it would benefit much, but eventually I would like to have more power to pull the hills, will the marine injectors be better than reg. Injectors?
 
Don't waste you time with marine injectors.

Mylex International has really good prices on injectors.
Accurate Diesel has great stuff, just more expensive.
 
Personally- HATE ssdiesel supply - I sent them lots of $, nothing lived up to their claims. No service, no warranty. Their "marine injectors" were a mismatched set. Pressures were way off from each other, and one even had a bent pintle.
 
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