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Can Drilled and Slotted Rotors be Turned

We drove the 4Runner to a b'day/family reunion for my wife's cousin in Tehachapi. 300+ miles round trip. I lectured my wife to calm down on her driving. She's an impatient retiree, zooming in and out and around slower drivers on the freeway. Now that I focused on it, she'll race up to a slower driver then jump on the brakes. She said that she was not going to change the way she drives. So, if she warps this set of rotors, she's going to get the rotors that cost $25 to $30.
 
You sure she is not riding the brakes softly down the mountain?

I think the front end is doing all the work coming down the mountain like a stuck caliper.
 
You sure she is not riding the brakes softly down the mountain?

I think the front end is doing all the work coming down the mountain like a stuck caliper.

She's using the transmission to slow the vehicle coming down from Big Bear, but is still aggressive in my view. Calipers are not sticking, but I will pull them apart today and relube with silicon grease as a matter of precaution. Also make sure the bearing hub is surgically clean.
 
In the fleet that was jammed full of mostly gmt400 trucks, they put over 100,000 miles a year on most of them. We couldn't tell the drivers to go easy. They would take that as a personal challenge, and several told me that after I mentioned maybe easing up a hair.

The factory stuff simply worked better than all the aftermarket parts that were out there. $ to be saved was in buying outside the dealership pricing.

I know hers isn't the GM, and I have little experience on Toyotas, but the experience I do have with them is their components since 1990 is top shelf stuff. You already bought the other stuff, so run it, and track mileage/ condition, performance. Then next time, go back to factory parts - new rotors and pads at the same time- remember to burninsh them, it is HUGE! Then see how they stack up.

The desire is to try saving $, I get it. But not on the brakes, tires, or steering. I get the desire to fix the root cause, believe me...
If she is driving more aggressive than she used to, fine. But don't go with chinese crap that will give her less control in the last all important 10' of the stop. $450 more expensive parts is still probably cheaper than your deductible.
 
In the fleet that was jammed full of mostly gmt400 trucks, they put over 100,000 miles a year on most of them. We couldn't tell the drivers to go easy. They would take that as a personal challenge, and several told me that after I mentioned maybe easing up a hair.

The factory stuff simply worked better than all the aftermarket parts that were out there. $ to be saved was in buying outside the dealership pricing.

I know hers isn't the GM, and I have little experience on Toyotas, but the experience I do have with them is their components since 1990 is top shelf stuff. You already bought the other stuff, so run it, and track mileage/ condition, performance. Then next time, go back to factory parts - new rotors and pads at the same time- remember to burninsh them, it is HUGE! Then see how they stack up.

The desire is to try saving $, I get it. But not on the brakes, tires, or steering. I get the desire to fix the root cause, believe me...
If she is driving more aggressive than she used to, fine. But don't go with chinese crap that will give her less control in the last all important 10' of the stop. $450 more expensive parts is still probably cheaper than your deductible.

I redid them today. Also reread your article....twice.

Bearing hubs had a light "film" of rust that easily came off with emery paper. We don't get rusty scale in SoCal. I bought a $20 tub of special brake parts grease and applied to every pin and bolt.

IMO the Raybestos Advanced technology are the best. I have not had problems with them in the past. This is the first time I've had problems with the Powerstop rotors. We have them on 3 other cars with no problems. Also, I change the original pads at 75K miles and they could have gone 85K to 90K which is consistent or better than what most report on Toyota forums. Her original tires went 60K miles and her second set will do the same. So those data points do not point to overly aggressive driving and braking. I just need to he to chill out a little and downshift the car coming down the mountains.
 
@Will L. No getting away from the Commie China Krap anymore on brake rotors. GM dealers are made there now, as well as several other brands that used to be USA cast. Japan is taking advantage of the Commie Slave Labor too.

@Big T Brake jobs are cheaper than transmission jobs. Screw downshifting and lunching the transmission unless it's towing. Unless it has an exhaust brake downshifting doesn't really do much braking anyway.* Burn the cheap brakes up instead.

* Downshifting does, however, get the stuck on throttle and tight converter to quit pushing you in high gear as most OEMs like to keep the drive line wrapped up forward to eliminate clunks etc. Neutral drop it from drive once going down the road and watch the RPMs flair up a moment with you foot off the throttle and you will see what I mean.
 
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