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Calling all 6.2/6.5 gurus

I finally got the time today to do the compression test on the engine in my truck. Every hole was within 4-5 lbs of 350psi. And oil pressure was just over 40 at cranking speed with cold oil. So I can be pretty confident in saying that I think my current engine is in good shape to swap parts over to.

One thing I wanted to ask you guys though, I got looking at the donor engine, and wondering why there is exhaust coming off the manifold and out of the turbo both?

I’ll attach a picture. Can someone load a picture of how the factory setup looks?

I also got a good look at the crank dampener and it looks for all the world like one of those fluidampner’s I see online. So that’s cool.

I don’t see a front starter mount on either engine tho so I need to find one of those.

I look forward to your input guys. Thanks in advance.

P.S. to the guys saying I need to update my signature. I did on the first day. But it won’t show unless you turn your phone sideways js
9815E475-55CC-42F4-BE8F-FD505263340F.jpeg
 
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Do you guys have any recommendations on after market air filters? I’m thinking this can clamp right on the turbo intake.

K&N Universal Clamp-On Air Intake Filter: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Filter: Flange Diameter: 3 In, Filter Height: 8 In, Flange Length: 1.75 In, Shape: Round Tapered, RE-0910 https://a.co/d/45ZAabU
 
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@Jake907 Ak is right, you don't want an open air filter in the engine compartment where is can suck in hot air from the engine bay. the late stock style is rare to find anymore, it's refereed to as the K47 air filter housing. it used a round style filter and had a tube which connected to the fender to grab air from outside the engine bay.

the S&B setup is very similar but it uses a clear see through top and has a better air flow design. see link below to their website. if and when I can afford it, this will be the filter I plan to invest into my rig.

iirc some of the vendors here in the forum offer this filter and may have it available for a better price.

www.sbfilters.com

Cold Air Intake for 1992-2000 Chevy / GMC Detroit Diesel 6.5L

S&B 75-5045 - The 1992-2000 Chevy / GMC Detroit Diesel air intake increases air flow by 42.7% over the stock intake, while maintaining a 99.48% efficiency rating.
www.sbfilters.com www.sbfilters.com
 
So, besides the air filter setup, I’m puzzling through another problem. If you guys know of a thread where this was addressed. That would be cool. Didn’t find anything right off, but I’ll keep looking. I decided to try and make the serpentine belt setup fit on my truck. The t-stat housing needs to go right through where the throttle cable bracket lives. I’m about to call it a day and go search the interwebs for solutions. Here’s a couple pics illustrating the issue. CA01D058-A856-46F7-BCBC-57B21B847A4A.jpeg4FA15A6C-AEC6-4640-849B-444DE50E79F2.jpeg
 
dbrannon79 said:
@Jake907 Ak is right, you don't want an open air filter in the engine compartment where is can suck in hot air from the engine bay. the late stock style is rare to find anymore, it's refereed to as the K47 air filter housing. it used a round style filter and had a tube which connected to the fender to grab air from outside the engine bay.

the S&B setup is very similar but it uses a clear see through top and has a better air flow design. see link below to their website. if and when I can afford it, this will be the filter I plan to invest into my rig.

iirc some of the vendors here in the forum offer this filter and may have it available for a better price.

www.sbfilters.com

Cold Air Intake for 1992-2000 Chevy / GMC Detroit Diesel 6.5L

S&B 75-5045 - The 1992-2000 Chevy / GMC Detroit Diesel air intake increases air flow by 42.7% over the stock intake, while maintaining a 99.48% efficiency rating.
www.sbfilters.com www.sbfilters.com
Click to expand...
Thank you, I’d seen that one online but was having a little trouble swallowing the price tag. Lol. I’m not only cheap but poor too! 😂🤦🏻‍♂️
 
I think I heard mention, when people doing different conversions, that they had to fab up bracketry to work around the different coolant crossovers and such.
Some with more knowledge than I I hope chimes in and rescues Me.
 
@Jake907 the best tstat crossover housing that doesn't interfere with the mechanical pump bracket is the 92-95 housing, faces forwards. What year/ style is the thermostat housing currently on the truck? Looks like the rare half model year '96 style but can't really tell from the pictures and I don't know what came stock on the '89 in your sig.

Only other option is to modify the existing bracket to clear the water neck or fab your own
 
DieselAmateur said:
@Jake907 the best tstat crossover housing that doesn't interfere with the mechanical pump bracket is the 92-95 housing, faces forwards. What year/ style is the thermostat housing currently on the truck? Looks like the rare half model year '96 style but can't really tell from the pictures and I don't know what came stock on the '89 in your sig.

Only other option is to modify the existing bracket to clear the water neck or fab your own
Click to expand...
I was told the donor was from a ‘94. And it definitely faced rearward, my ‘89 faced forwards. The difference is AC placement and also the ‘94 didn’t have mechanical linkage to navigate around. I’ll probably have to do as @MrMarty51 suggests and fab my own. Just putting feelers out to see if there was a kit or a stupid simple idea I was missing. Thanks
 
the one in your 89 should bolt right up. post some pics of the two engines and stat crossovers. grab the block numbers from the 94 engine where the bellhousing bolts up on the drivers side top. those numbers will tell you what year and revision engine that is.
 
dbrannon79 said:
the one in your 89 should bolt right up. post some pics of the two engines and stat crossovers. grab the block numbers from the 94 engine where the bellhousing bolts up on the drivers side top. those numbers will tell you what year and revision engine that is.
Click to expand...
The tube from my 89 will definitely bolt on just fine, IF I don’t do the serpentine upgrade. I really want the bigger fan, bigger water pump, and AC brackets that I can get if I use the serp belt setup from the 94
 
iirc I have heard others say that the v-belt setup is a much desired setup to keep. one belt snaps and you can still keep her rolling for a bit. single serp belt snaps and your down till it's replaced!
 
Advantages of v belt is the waterpump never got messed up with unbalanced flow. Also the hmmwv fanclutch system just bolts on without issues. Different fan iirc but those are easily found with tons of hmmwv parts around for years to come. Then get a rebuild kit for the fan clutch down the road - basically seals and tiny brake shoes. Then the 12v solenoid and a couple custom power steering hoses. Still use any electric fan controller you want to adjust fan engagement where you want it. Add a switch for force on and trinary switch for fan engagement with a/c high pressure like modern rigs.
 
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