Just starting to notice a rattle when hitting bumps,more rapid of a rattle over stutter type bumps,less over normal road imperfections. I have looked and touched anything and everything that could be loose and have found nothing! Steering shaft is the upgraded one and is tight, all body mounts,and hardware is tight. I can grab the caliper and move it, yes I know there is suppose to be some give,but could there be enough to cause the calipers to rattle around when driving?? I'm running 70 psi all the way round cause I am hauling wood and usually run 60 psi the rest of the time. Any thing else I should check?? My psi choices OK ??
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Caliper rattle??
- Thread starter Bammer
- Start date
trouttrooper
Big Blocks ROCK!!!
I would lean towards no. Sounds like something in the suspension, loose shock? Can't always tell unless you can jack up the whole front end by the frame so the suspension is hanging freely, then start checking things. Tire psi is fine IMO. I put about 75 in rear and 60 front when hauling wood and run 50-55ish when empty.
saratoga
Unpaid Help
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=22060
I have the exact same problem. Yes it's either the calipers or (more likely) the pads. Last weekend, I took the front calipers and pads off, cleaned the anti-rattle clips, cleaned the pins and packed them with synthetic disc brake grease, put a dab of grease under the anti-rattle clips and even put a dab of grease on the pad ears.
...they still rattle. I compressed the caliper pistons and they move back and forth on the pins smoothly with no free play.
I can barely ride the brakes over the stutter type bumps and the noise stops so it's not anything in the suspension. Short of buying new pads and hardware as an experiment (which it doesn't need), I have no idea how to stop it.
I have the exact same problem. Yes it's either the calipers or (more likely) the pads. Last weekend, I took the front calipers and pads off, cleaned the anti-rattle clips, cleaned the pins and packed them with synthetic disc brake grease, put a dab of grease under the anti-rattle clips and even put a dab of grease on the pad ears.
...they still rattle. I compressed the caliper pistons and they move back and forth on the pins smoothly with no free play.
I can barely ride the brakes over the stutter type bumps and the noise stops so it's not anything in the suspension. Short of buying new pads and hardware as an experiment (which it doesn't need), I have no idea how to stop it.
Last edited:
Thanks for the info. I didn't peruse the suspension forum because I'm thinking brakes. Pads are still good, so I'll do as you did and clean and lube,maybe I'll get lucky??? If not I'll have to try and ignore it? Yeah right:mad2:
saratoga
Unpaid Help
I finally got fed up and will be replacing everything this weekend. 
All new pads, rotors and hardware. Went with Autozone Duralast Gold Cmax ceramic pads, rotors and hardware. The pads look very well made and have all new stainless anti-rattle clips. Came to just over $330.
All new pads, rotors and hardware. Went with Autozone Duralast Gold Cmax ceramic pads, rotors and hardware. The pads look very well made and have all new stainless anti-rattle clips. Came to just over $330.
I finally got fed up and will be replacing everything this weekend.
All new pads, rotors and hardware. Went with Autozone Duralast Gold Cmax ceramic pads, rotors and hardware. The pads look very well made and have all new stainless anti-rattle clips. Came to just over $330.
Did it fix the problem??
You did front and rear?? Pretty decent price for all four! Shame you have to replace parts that are still good.
saratoga
Unpaid Help
We'll find out if it works this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.
Yup, Front and rear pads, rotors and new caliper pins. The pads (best ones they had) were $60ish per axle, front rotors were $48ish, rear rotors were $40ish. I think the pins were $9 per set X4. Price was pretty decent IMO.
I originally priced all AC Delco from Rock Auto, but shipping would have been almost $100.
The Autozone price was decent IMO.
Yup, Front and rear pads, rotors and new caliper pins. The pads (best ones they had) were $60ish per axle, front rotors were $48ish, rear rotors were $40ish. I think the pins were $9 per set X4. Price was pretty decent IMO.
I originally priced all AC Delco from Rock Auto, but shipping would have been almost $100.
The Autozone price was decent IMO.
Those Autozone's prices are pretty damn good ! I appreciate you posting up what happens with all these new parts,cause I'll do the same if your experiment is a success.
saratoga
Unpaid Help
Success!!!
Took 5 hours, and there's no more rattle! New pads, rotors and hardware I also flushed out the brake fluid while I was at it. It didn't stop this good when it was new.
These trucks are really straightforward to do brakes on, no specialty tools needed. Only problems were the bolts holding the caliper brackets on. Holy crap they used some serious permanent trheadlocker. The fronts can be taken out with an impact, but the rears have to be done with wrenches. They're tight, but you can break them loose with two wrenches. I put them back together with medium strength loctite so they'll actually come apart again.
I will say a significant amount of swearing is required over these four bolts.
I've got a bunch of pics that I'll post later.
Took 5 hours, and there's no more rattle! New pads, rotors and hardware I also flushed out the brake fluid while I was at it. It didn't stop this good when it was new.
These trucks are really straightforward to do brakes on, no specialty tools needed. Only problems were the bolts holding the caliper brackets on. Holy crap they used some serious permanent trheadlocker. The fronts can be taken out with an impact, but the rears have to be done with wrenches. They're tight, but you can break them loose with two wrenches. I put them back together with medium strength loctite so they'll actually come apart again.
I will say a significant amount of swearing is required over these four bolts.
I've got a bunch of pics that I'll post later.
saratoga
Unpaid Help
Pics
As promised. I didn't take pics of the rears once they were complete because my arse was tired, dehydrated and hungry. You get the point.
You had better eat your wheaties before trying to remove the bolts on the caliper brackets... that's all I've got to say.
The beginning:
Still plenty of material left on the pads:
Parts Bin:
Better view of old pads:
Everything's off the driver's side. Note the drips on the concrete.
Everything's off the passenger side. More drips on the concrete. Grady was sweating like a soaker hose it was so hot today!
Parts removed:
Passenger side all shiny and new (note the painted caliper brackets ):h):
Driver's side back together... starting to drain out the nasty brake fluid:
Passenger rear with caliper removed. Pads looked the same as the fronts.
Driver's rear, draining the fluid:
Rear view:
As promised. I didn't take pics of the rears once they were complete because my arse was tired, dehydrated and hungry. You get the point.
You had better eat your wheaties before trying to remove the bolts on the caliper brackets... that's all I've got to say.
The beginning:
Still plenty of material left on the pads:
Parts Bin:
Better view of old pads:
Everything's off the driver's side. Note the drips on the concrete.
Everything's off the passenger side. More drips on the concrete. Grady was sweating like a soaker hose it was so hot today!
Parts removed:
Passenger side all shiny and new (note the painted caliper brackets ):h):
Driver's side back together... starting to drain out the nasty brake fluid:
Passenger rear with caliper removed. Pads looked the same as the fronts.
Driver's rear, draining the fluid:
Rear view:
Attachments
Last edited:
Glad it worked out Grady ! :thumbsup: Looks like a project for the summer for me!!!!:sad:
On a side note, my BIL has an 07 Classic with 20k on it. He tells me that the rears are squealing like a pig and that he's taking it to the dealer. Dealer says he needs rear rotors and pads and that the fronts need turning,for the low low price of 500 ! I say bullsh!@. Call GM and complain. Well they did it all for nothing,so there must be an issue that they're not admitting to unless you raise a stink!
On a side note, my BIL has an 07 Classic with 20k on it. He tells me that the rears are squealing like a pig and that he's taking it to the dealer. Dealer says he needs rear rotors and pads and that the fronts need turning,for the low low price of 500 ! I say bullsh!@. Call GM and complain. Well they did it all for nothing,so there must be an issue that they're not admitting to unless you raise a stink!
treegump
Romans 3:22-24
Replaced my rotors, calipers, and pads in the front, and shoes, springs, and driver's side cylinder - all yesterday. I'm sure glad I put anti-seize on my wheel bearings because they slid right out after the bolts were removed from my front knuckles. Bad thing is - got the brakes bled at 12am, test drive at 1am, pinhole leak in main line at 1:30am, drove my g/f's car to work today. Sucks. (I was hitting my brakes hard when road testing it, seeing as I have a 30 mile commute on an interstate going through construction now.)