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California Emission LBZ HELP PLEASE!

The hot side pipe would be money much better spent. If you really want better acceleration, response, and get rid of your egr, then custom tuning is your best option. The stock down pipe once you get the heat shield off really isn't that bad. It's not a round pipe, but it flows really well. About the only improvements you'll feel is a lighter wallet, and maybe 50 degrees cooler egt's at wide open. And unledd you eliminate the cat, that's going to be your restriction anyways.

I would re-route your pcv, blocker plate in the egr, full exhaust(retaining stock down pipe, but keep it so you can install the cat for inspections), and sell your current tuner and get an autocal from a reputeable vendor. If you need to take it, flash in the stock tune and pop the blocker plate out, and you're hood to go. Run the good wix air filters in your stock intake but open up the intake hole in the fender to maximize air flow, and call it a day. A good tune can add all the power you need and greatly improve throttle response. And if you get an autocal, you can flash back to stock at anytime in about 2 minutes time. You can also get a dsp2/5 for shift on the fly tuning.
 
Thanks again everyone for helping me out. I think i set my mind on just doing the finger stick and EGR blocker plate along with a 4in muffler exhaust system and HyperTech Max Energy. I have been pretty pleased with the performance and fuel mileage its been giving me so far. Plus i dont really got the money for EFI Live any time soon. We do have emission testing here, so im wondering whats the best set up to go with for my exhaust.

Do you guys think just a cat back system, or 4in all the way with muffler? is there even a big differance in sound and performance running stock straight pipe to 4in cat back muffler exhaust system than a 4in muffler system and just adding the stock cat every year for testing?Im trying to think of the best way to clamp my 3 1/2 cat back on every year and I dont want to flange it becuase of cost and finding someone to weld it and what not. I really dont want to put the cat back where its originaly and i dont know how to work around all the curves near the cat to reuse it every year. Any ideas?
 
Thanks again everyone for helping me out. I think i set my mind on just doing the finger stick and EGR blocker plate along with a 4in muffler exhaust system and HyperTech Max Energy. I have been pretty pleased with the performance and fuel mileage its been giving me so far. Plus i dont really got the money for EFI Live any time soon. We do have emission testing here, so im wondering whats the best set up to go with for my exhaust.

Do you guys think just a cat back system, or 4in all the way with muffler? is there even a big differance in sound and performance running stock straight pipe to 4in cat back muffler exhaust system than a 4in muffler system and just adding the stock cat every year for testing?Im trying to think of the best way to clamp my 3 1/2 cat back on every year and I dont want to flange it becuase of cost and finding someone to weld it and what not. I really dont want to put the cat back where its originaly and i dont know how to work around all the curves near the cat to reuse it every year. Any ideas?
 
I am running a Diamondeye 4" downpipe back system with muffler. It's definitely a noticeable sound difference. Got it from our supporting vendor Leroy (see my signature). Not sure what to do about your cat for testing though. I don't have to worry about that here.
 
They make plates you can buy to weld in and make a test pipe to swap in, but that's about it. I know Cali is bad enough they are making you put the cat back in the stock location as some were just swapping the muffler out, but they were getting failed because the cat wasn't in the stock location.
 
Okay so it took me an hour to instal finger stick. Tired to make it look clean and factory like. LoL! What do you guys think? Any advice? I never soldered or did this kind of electrical work before.

I ran my truck for a bit and reved it and also started it several times and no codes poped. Am I good to go or does it take a while to ensure I connected everything okay?

Also I have the blocker plate and tried to instal. I broke 2 sockets already! LoL! I put some wd40 as well and let it sit for a while before I started and still broke those. One of them is brand new because I broke my old one. Some one please help me!!! LOL!
 

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Kazz said:
I broke 2 sockets already! LoL! I put some wd40 as well and let it sit for a while before I started and still broke those. One of them is brand new because I broke my old one. Some one please help me!!! LOL!
Click to expand...

Try a nice SK or snapon, they should hold together, or Craftsman -- warranty it when it breaks. WD is good or Try PB Blaster. I think I had a can of Kroil that worked wonders for me. If you can bear the heat, try it after driving it for a bit -- careful it will be hot!!!

And the wiring looks good. Factory doesn't usually use zip-ties, just black electrical tape or that felt tape. But you should be ok. Just stay away from the ref station haha.
 
Nice job on the fingers stick install. Pretty much how mine looks. Just drive it. If a connection is bad you'll get a code eventually but not having one now means it's good so far. As far as the 2 flange bolts, soak the 2 with a 50/50 mix of trans fluid/acetone overnight. For me, I used a 1/4" ratchet and 12mm shallow socket with a piece of tube for a cheater bar from the driver's side while my son was on the pass side holding the socket on.
 
Aww man 2 codes poped and not going away I cleared them several times and rechecked all my connections a million times. I have P0201 and P0405!! Any advice!?
 
I used a snap on box end wrench and a hammer. Knock on wood they always broke right loose. And get the blocker plate installed. Without the blocker the egr valve is flowing, and the finger stick is now creating a maf error because it cannot properly correct the maf reading with the egr flowing.
 
Check those solder connections. You mentioned your not on top of soldering- stop by a stereo shop and flip them a $20 for 2 quick connections.

There was testing done by the AVE Canadian guy testing all the penetration oils on youtube. Using an impact for the hammering effect has WAY more affect. Just like Ferm mentioning hammer on wrench. Hint from ex tool guy- use heavy plastic deadblow to not wreck your warranty.
 
Alright everybody, I gave up! I installed twice and checked wires, colors, connections and had a 2nd pair of eyes and someone who solders a lot and he siad looked good but still no win. Codes kept popping and I tried everything so I crimped everything back to stock and no codes again after driving around for a while. NOT DOING THAT AGAIN. a lot of others and forums say it could be a bad stick.

Who's is the best for EFI LIVE? LOL! I'm going to go easy way and just tune everything out. I heard Kori Willis is good and I know ATP is no longer doing his tunes. Daneville, ridgerunner?
 
As Ferman said, without the block plate the fingers stick will throw codes. Same thing with a tune. The plate is the key.
 
Maybe i will try again but im going to crimp this time becuase i put everything back to stock using crimps and i think its the easiest and quickest way to tell if the finger stick is working.

I am running out of wire for the EGR input and MAF input. its 22 gauge i believe. Any ideas on what wire i can use to work on it again? Thats my biggest worry becuaes I dont think i have enough room to cut and crimp again. I checked autozone and oriely as well lowes and walmart and they only have up to 20 guage wire.

I would love to try again just worried about having enough wire. It should not matter to use larger wire right? If the input and output is smaller than the larger wire im putting in between, it should not be a problem right?
 
Larger wire should make no difference. Smaller could. Crimp fittings will possibly fail over time. For the short term they should be ok
 
So I put the finger stick back in for the FOURTH time! I didnt have codes until like and hour later and its the same codes P0102 and P0405! its for "Mass air flow circuit low and EGR circuit low." I also installed the blocker plate before the codes came up. I drove it around alot with the codes and to work today and it didnt limp. Do I need to worry about it limping eventually or damaging anything?

Also, I noticed the codes would come and go. I would clear the codes and it will stay off and than after a while it would come back on. Some times my tuner wont even read that there is a DTC but the check engine light would be on.

Please if you guys have any advice on this that would be awesome. Also I had a few people check my work and my sodering and its all good. I even called Kennedy Diesel that sold me the part and they werent very helpful. He actually sounded super irritated and kept telling me to buy a tunner becuase they shouldve stopped making this part for 15 YEARS and they keep selling it becuase people still want it. Thats what he actually told me! LOL!

So if you guys think EFI Live will fix all this than let me know and I will be done with trying to make the MOD work. I love the response and performance of the truck with this MOD installed. Its a big differance. I got like 18 MPG city so far hand calculated and response is amazing!
 
If the plate is installed and not leaking with good connections at the finger stick, then I'm at a loss. The finger stick has worked trouble free for thousands of people, but it can be a huge pain for those who don't solder and heat shrink and hook the wires in correctly. Otherwise you can tune it and do away with it that way. As to who, I would send you to Danville. I used to reccomend ridgerunner, but after the way I seen him treat a customer who never got his tunes right from him, I'll NEVER send enybody else to him. And I seen some of the emails he sent the guy bad mouthing him and his injectors over it, so I know it wasn't made up. I felt really bad because I reccomended he go to him as well as somebody else who got tunes that didn't work well.
 
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