Bypass engine oil centrifuge filter system for 6.5

[Turbine Doc]

I think unless I start racking up a LOT of highway miles per year, and need to reduce the number of oil changes to save some dough, then I would move to either this kind of centrifuge system, or possibly something like the Amsoil bypass or a FS-2500 from Heath.

Can anyone weigh in here?

-Rob

Hi Rob was this directed at me ? As I recall you were interested in testing I was doing on 2500 vs Amsoil bad news that project went on hold when I parked the burb to do a body swap and I stopped racking up miles on the FS2500 setup.

Anyway, centrifugal purification is nothing new, I saw a similar article in Diesel Gas Turbine worldwide magazine, for marine diesels in crew boats and large ship propulsion. We also used centrifugal purification when I was USN but that was for large sumps 1600-2000 gal, which required supplemental heat which I don't see here, so effectiveness may not be optimal, but it does look promising as a different solution to age old problem of keeping oil clean.

I have been very satisfied with my Amsoil setup which gives good oil protection to 22K miles on samples I've run on mine. Negative is that filters are a consumable item, if centrifuge is a cleanable device with no elements to be replaced, over time it may be cost effective for someone who isn't already bypass filter equipped, it would probably not effective $$$ wise to pay for another system and swap them out as not enough miles to recoup investment of 2 auxiliary filtration systems.

Leroy since you've been running one I highly suggest you team up with a sample lab to have some data to go with you offering as you know the 6.5 crowd is pretty tight with $$$, so "proof" is a big thing with this crowd. I'd start with a sample of oil in crankcase now, vs another in say 3k miles to see if there is either an improvement or stabilization of oil cleanliness.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Well I went & read the info it looks to be cleanable so has a cost advantage over bypass setups in replaceable elements, I'd still like to see some oil lab results to confirm the promotional material from the mfr. Also this along with a bypass set up one should run a calculation of the payback economics, we have many engines with 200+K on them on factory elements alone, for me as a long time engine owner it made sense to add years to the engine life to have as clean an oil as possible. If you are not planning to keep the vehicle forever, then possibly regular quality dino oil and 3-4 K mile oil changes are the better option this one is a decision that requires careful study.

I wish this was available in 2000 I might have this vs my bypass filtration

 

[Burning oil]

Good info Tim and good to talk with you again today. I will try to get some info on the questions you raised.

 

[Burning oil]

OK,now i understand how this set up works.
but if it robs oil from the oil gallery and returns the filtered oil back to the pan,how much is that going to affect engine oil pressure.After all it's like having to feed an other set of bearings.

The valve inside the unit keeps oil pressures at the proper range.
That was one of my main concearns when I installed mine, but oil pressure has been great. The two jets that spin the rotor are just pin holes, so not alot of drop anyway even if there was no built in valve.

 

[Burning oil]

These are just rough #s If using synthetic oil at $30/gal Filter $10 thats $70 let say twice a year =$140 X five years =$700

If you can only cut back oil change to once a year You save $350, but thats really not the only potential cost because you have extra wear and tear on the engine that without bypass filtering can cost money in the long run.

Sometimes not everything comes down to a cost issue. I like to buy only the best (I can afford) for my vehicles. For example I am painting my truck and instead of buying some cheap paint I bought the good stuff, I want it to last a long time & don't want to have to paint it again in 2 years. Same thing for the centrifuge, if it can extend the engine life by even two years its worth it to me.

 

[TurboTahoe]

Hi Rob was this directed at me ? As I recall you were interested in testing I was doing on 2500 vs Amsoil bad news that project went on hold when I parked the burb to do a body swap and I stopped racking up miles on the FS2500 setup.

Hi Tim,

Good to hear from you! Yes, it was somewhat directed at you, as I don't know anyone else running a 6.5 with Heath's FS-2500 setup. Thanks for chiming in.

It's interesting reading on the FS site, they have PowerStroke guys claiming that the FS-2500 setup actually cleans their oil to where it visually appears as new! That seems to be quite a trick, to actually clean the oil to the point where it is as translucent as new oil.

Anyway, I'm with you. We are a frugal sort, or we wouldn't be driving 6.5s. We require proof that something works. In theory, I love the idea of a centrifuge, as Leroy is totally right - it has the potential to be superior to everything else out there in its ability to capture particles.

Some kind of decent before/after oil analysis would be really great.

-Rob

 

[Turbine Doc]

Just a quick answer to you Rob, I don't want to to distract from the discussion of Leroy's @ 5000 miles the oil is not any cleaner visibly with the FS, they did say it would take maybe 10K miles, but I have my doubts as when I put on the FS, I put on new oil cooler & lines left the oil pan drain open for days trying to get out as much of the old oil as possible.

When I return from NY in the fall I'll be grabbing my 1st FS oil sample and installing a new FS filter element.

 

[great white]

Just a quick answer to you Rob, I don't want to to distract from the discussion of Leroy's @ 5000 miles the oil is not any cleaner visibly with the FS, they did say it would take maybe 10K miles, but I have my doubts as when I put on the FS, I put on new oil cooler & lines left the oil pan drain open for days trying to get out as much of the old oil as possible.

When I return from NY in the fall I'll be grabbing my 1st FS oil sample and installing a new FS filter element.

Sorry to continue the hijack but:

Is that the fs-2500?

I've been looking at that as a filtering option....

 

[Turbine Doc]

Yes FS2500

 

[Matt Bachand]

This centrifuge design seems 10x better than the other ones. Assuming it cleans/filters as well or better of course. 1/10th of a micron is EXTREMELY small for anything liquid, not to mention oil.

I'd love to see some anal's. Err, Analysis's.

 

[great white]

Question:

How far off level can these be operated at?

Around 10 degrees seems to be the max for most I have looked at.

Not so important on a road truck.

But it may matter on a 4x4 (which mine is and occasionally sees use), in which case I would think there is a need to install a shut off valve for those specific occasions. Seems a shut off would be a good idea just to take away the issues of jarring it (while spinning) and damaging it during off road use.

Thoughts? Or am I out in left field?

 

[buddy]

stuff in a centrifuge automatically goes to the center of the outer wall about the cetral spinning axis, so I dont see why it would matter much if it was tilted during operation, if it is a few thousand RPM.

 

[Burning oil]

Would not make much difference on angle as long as you arent at 90

 

[Burning oil]

This centrifuge design seems 10x better than the other ones. Assuming it cleans/filters as well or better of course. 1/10th of a micron is EXTREMELY small for anything liquid, not to mention oil.

I'd love to see some anal's. Err, Analysis's.

Yea sorry guys for posting before I had any data. In my mind I know it works. All I can offer at this point it the companys propaganda. Try a goggle search also for now for more info. It will be a few months before I can even compair oil samples on my rig. There has to be testimonials on the web, I have not looked yet.

 

[great white]

stuff in a centrifuge automatically goes to the center of the outer wall about the cetral spinning axis, so I dont see why it would matter much if it was tilted during operation, if it is a few thousand RPM.

It's not about "slinging stuff", it's about the rotating component inside the 'fuge contacting the housing while spinning at "OMG" speeds. It's also about gyroscopic effects and the spinning component resisting vectoring changes.

That's why most specs are only around 10-11 degrees...

 

[Burning oil]

It's not about "slinging stuff", it's about the rotating component inside the 'fuge contacting the housing while spinning at "OMG" speeds. It's also about gyroscopic effects and the spinning component resisting vectoring changes.

That's why most specs are only around 10-11 degrees...

In your case it would be a good idea to have a valve so you could shut it down while thrashing around.

 

[buddy]

Does it not ride on a cental shaft that holds the rotating mass in place?

 

[bison]

yes,the centrifuge runs on a stationairy shaft. max tilt has prob has to do with drainback issues me thinks

 

[Matt Bachand]

Where does it get the energy to spin?

 

[buddy]

Oil pressure spins it, drain back would be an issue after shutdown, cant park at terrible angles. If some have electric motors the electric drives cant take the forces on the motor shaft.