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Bypass engine oil centrifuge filter system for 6.5

Burning oil

Burning oil

LeroyDiesel.com
Vendor
Messages
10,306
Reaction score
1,958
Location
Houston
Hey everyone, this http://www.spinnerii.com/index.cfm/lev1/904/divId/78/Buy.Now!?process=prodList&category_id=1
is a iron I've had in the fire for a year. I am going to be selling what I have and thats it unless there is a big interest. I say this because it is very time consuming to manfactuer this kit (all the parts and fab work).
These are made for the 1996 &^ trucks. The centrifuge will work on any truck, but this kit has all the brackets ect for 1996&^.
I have maybe 6 kits and are in diferent states of readyness, some still need holes drilled or bending...ect
I have been using mine for only 7K miles. I did take it apart once to check for the junk it caught. It did have a slight sooty build up. I have not done oil samples or anything like that so do not have info on that aspect.

I would be very interested in contiuing to offer these kits, BUT would want to ship them in more of an unassymbled state. I would leave the welding, bending and drilling up to you. (it takes me to long and to expensive to hire out)

I will sell these 6 kits I have now first come first served for $499.00 + shipping. I think I could large flat rate mail it for $15 in USA.

Included is everything you see PLUS the drain hose and the new drain terminal that bolts to the block (same place as turbo drain)

I have atleast two kits pretty well ready to go. I am real busy so give me time if you order one so I can finish it up. If you want them as is I can work a better price on a kit, just have to call me and see 713 408 0423.

oil centrifuge 006.jpg

oil centrifuge 001.jpg

oil centrifuge 003.jpg

The rubber hose (in pic) suppling oil to centrifuge is now stainless steel braided.
Another bounus is, with the kit you also get an OPS extesion hose included. I tee in off that for oil supply and it makes your OPS much easier to change out next time it breaks.

OPS extension hose w/bracket.
4[1].jpg
 
OH the link I posted above is for a Cummins motor, but you get the idea. I am a distributor for the Spinner II product lines and anything else you see on there web site. Let me know if you need info or a price.
 
Leroy, I am so impressed with your innovation offerings.

I guess my main question is whether one of these centrifuges (which I have looked at for many years) really does make a difference in reducing the amount of deposits/soot in the oil. I guess the question in my mind is whether there is significant value to filtering the oil in this way.

I use a high-quality but fairly inexpensive conventional oil, and change it every 3000 miles. (typically, Delo 15/40 from Costco, I stock up when they have coupons - it costs me around 8-9$ a gallon). I also favor the Fram HP4 Oil Filter, which seems to do the best job at reducing the soot in the oil (I use the dipstick 'feel between your fingers' soot measurement method). I can buy them at my local Autozone for around $8-9. Therefore, my oil changes cost me around $24-27/each. At 4x per year, this is tolerable.

I think unless I start racking up a LOT of highway miles per year, and need to reduce the number of oil changes to save some dough, then I would move to either this kind of centrifuge system, or possibly something like the Amsoil bypass or a FS-2500 from Heath.

Can anyone weigh in here?

-Rob :)
 
I look at it like $499 is cheap insurance. These would be great for a wrecker or as you said lots of miles on a truck. They claim it will filter down to 1/10th of a micron thats way smaller than a filter is going to grab.
I have more experence centrifuging WVO. the stuff that comes out of that is literally like peanut butter.
If you were using synthetic oils this could pay for itself real fast by extending oil change intervals.
 
TT, forgot to say thank you. I have a few more products coming out and one imparticuar you will be blown away by. I am so excited! Sorry cant tell you what it is .....yet.
 
I forgot I had taken these when I cleaned the cetrifuge. Notice the stainless braided hose this time.
bypass oil filter 001.jpg
Remove cover with 14mm wrench
bypass oil filter 002.jpg
Heart of the centrifuge
bypass oil filter 003.jpg

bypass oil filter 004.jpg
Remove nut and seperate. Its hard to see, but there was a thin layer of build up and after only 5Kish miles.
bypass oil filter 005.jpg
Cleaned up real nice with brake cleaner.
bypass oil filter 006.jpg
Reinstall
bypass oil filter 007.jpg
Ready to go again :thumbsup:
bypass oil filter 008.jpg
 
These centrifuges are the cats ass,I never knew these where avalable as a stand alone unit.i wonder if a guy can mount it so as to eliminate the damn filter altogether.

My belarus tractor has one similair to yours as the only means of filtering,after a 100 hrs all i do is take the cover and the bowl off and scrape a 1/4 cake of crud out of it,plunk it back together and go again.I never spend money for a filter on it in 23 yrs.

To bad the price is kinda steep ,I sure like to get one, but l cant see it paying off if one still has to change stock filters too.

Leroy,you think it can handle the full flow.

How much for the Spinner only?
 
The first thing I think of is, I would not as a business sugest it or sell it for that purpose because It is designed to supplement oil filtration. If there were a problem a business could be buying another engine for someone. As they are now it is basicaly impossible for it as a bypass system to do any harm. Even if the oil stoped flowing to the centrifuge it would just spin down and stop, yet you would still have full filtration by normal means.
With that said if someone buys a centrifuge they are free to experament.
Centrifuge alone is $325.
 
Burning oil said:
The first thing I think of is, I would not as a business sugest it or sell it for that purpose because It is designed to supplement oil filtration. If there were a problem a business could be buying another engine for someone. As they are now it is basicaly impossible for it as a bypass system to do any harm. Even if the oil stoped flowing to the centrifuge it would just spin down and stop, yet you would still have full filtration by normal means.
With that said if someone buys a centrifuge they are free to experament.
Centrifuge alone is $325.
Click to expand...
do you have specs as to min and max oil flow Gal/min and min oil pressure requared?
Do you know inlet/outlet tread size?
 
yes,the oil press spins it.at what Rpms i dont know,but after the engine shuts down it whines like a turbo before slowly coming to a stop.At least mine does.
 
bison said:
do you have specs as to min and max oil flow Gal/min and min oil pressure requared?
Do you know inlet/outlet tread size?
Click to expand...

Ill check on it for you. I do know on this model the inlet is a 9/16 straight thread (oring seal) Outlet is just gravity back to block, its 1" dia.
 
Cut & pasted below some info.

Fine Particle Protection: The Key to Reducing Wear


Spinner PT removes particles as small as one-tenth of a micron

Every time you turn the key, wear particles threaten the service life of your engine. External contaminants and internal debris (mostly soot) from combustion enter the oil stream - where they are continuously circulated through critical bearing surfaces.

Your spin-on, full-flow oil filter stops large particles (typically 40+ microns). But what about the small ones?

Up to 98% of the solids in lube oil are 10 microns or less. Automotive engineers will tell you - it's these tiny, abrasive particles that cause the most damage. And most of them pass right through your spin-on filter. It's like sandpaper constantly rubbing against the inside of your engine.
 
great white said:
Interesting.

The only one I've ever seen was in diesel power this month (http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/1006dp_engine_oil_centrifuge_project_300/index.html) and it has it's own mini compressor to spin the 'fuge. But I'm also new to this game.

seems using less parts (oil pressure) would be more reliable in the long run....
Click to expand...

I agree, I could be wrong but I think the extra pump is to pump the return oil back to the block?

With mine you don't need that as it drains back via gravity how it was designed to do.
 
This Model 25 is the smallest in the line. It is .8 gallons per min. They get larger as they go up to 16 gallons a min.
 
Last post then Im going to bed.
Just read the Dieselpowmag article. A couple things I don't like.
1. Yes the air compressor is for the return oil (its good and bad)
The good. If you have no drain back lower than the centrifuge then the air pressure pushes oil back to engine.
The bad. If air pump stops working then no more bypass filtering is going to happen. Extra parts = extra cost and more things to break.
2. They get their oil supply by teeing off the turbo supply. I don't want anything that close to my turbo taking oil from it.
My kit supplies from OPS port.

Good night.
 
OK,now i understand how this set up works.
but if it robs oil from the oil gallery and returns the filtered oil back to the pan,how much is that going to affect engine oil pressure.After all it's like having to feed an other set of bearings.
 
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