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Broken Wheel Studs - uh oh

BigBlueChevy

Compression Ignition Addict
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Location
Pennsylvania
After surviving my trip up to CT this past weekend I figured all was well and there was a light at the end of the tunnel. NOT. Coming off the highway on Wednesday leaving work I watched my back passenger tire roll past me as I was coming to a stop. This is the second time the truck has left me stranded because of broken Wheel studs. This includes both the BRAND NEW front stud on the axle, and the stock studs on my rear. Don't know why its happening, but I really want to know whats causing all this.

Perhaps I'm over tightening them? 80ft/lbs right? I'm using acorn nuts as per spec so its not wrong lugs(that was what happened the first time)

Help:mad2::mad2::confused:
 
Check your tq wrench. It's possible your over torquing them without even knowing it.
Do you retorque them after a few miles?
Where are you buying the new studs from? Possible china junk?

I can see this happening 1 time for you but not multiple times.
On side note how far did the tire roll past you?
 
I've always torqued my wheels studs to 140 lb-ft. On both my trucks, and on my 1999 Tahoe. NEVER (knocking on wood) had a problem. It is possible that yours are too loose and they are flexing ever so slightly, fatiguing the bolts until they snap off...just a theory.

Also, it is suggested that aluminum wheels be re-torqued after xxx amount of miles. FWIW, I've never re-torqued them (again, never had a problem). I rotate my tires about every 5,000 miles.
 
I zap mine on with my weak impact on 120psi then walk around all 8 one more time with the tank refilled.

Somethings going on back there. Possible bent axle? How about your mods, when the replaced the leafs is the axle true?

Any irregular tire wear?
 
If your only torqueing them to 80ft/lbs, I think thats your problem. The spec I beleive is in the high 140's, 147 or 146ft/lbs, and clean up the thread good with a brush before you torque the lugs down. Try that and hopefully that will work for you.
 
Torque is around 140lbs. I use a 22mm 140lb torque stick on my impact, then go back and torque to 140lbs. Then 100 miles later torque to 140lbs again.

Its very important to not use any sort of lube, 140lbs is a dry torque rating. many people mess these things up a lot. A lot of folks like to gob anti-seize everywhere as well. Do not do this as it can get between the wheel and hub and overtime it will work its way out causing the wheel to be very loose.

Many people severly over torque their wheels. they just rattle them on with the impact until they stop turning. These seem to hold up so I would guess it would be from under torqueing.

Hondas torque rating is 85lbs.
 
I've come across 2 vehicles that lost a wheel, one hit me at night. Both rims had the stud holes egged out. Loose nuts.
 
Torque is around 140lbs. I use a 22mm 140lb torque stick on my impact, then go back and torque to 140lbs. Then 100 miles later torque to 140lbs again.

Its very important to not use any sort of lube, 140lbs is a dry torque rating. many people mess these things up a lot. A lot of folks like to gob anti-seize everywhere as well. Do not do this as it can get between the wheel and hub and overtime it will work its way out causing the wheel to be very loose.

Many people severly over torque their wheels. they just rattle them on with the impact until they stop turning. These seem to hold up so I would guess it would be from under torqueing.

Hondas torque rating is 85lbs.


I use anti-seize on the wheels and have never had an issue. Without it the alloy wheels are a bitch to take off. Doing it on the side of the road is even better
 
I use anti-seize on the wheels and have never had an issue. Without it the alloy wheels are a bitch to take off. Doing it on the side of the road is even better


X2 on the use of anti-seize. I have been using it for years and never had a lug back off before.
I run the street lugs in with the impact just to place the tire then I come back with the torque wrench set to 140 ft/lbs. The summer rims are done totally by hand never an impact on or off.
 
Yeah...motor output. :D

That too but the wheels are 85lbs too.

On single wheel vehicles the chance of a wheel becoming loss due to never seize is low.

Im a commercial tire tech ( well was, but im still certified) and one of the biggest things they stressed was to not use never sieze. On semis is it very common for the neverseize to get in between the wheels and then work its way out and cause them to come loose.

If you use it wisely (just a dab) you should be fine.

I have no troubles getting the wheels off with no neversieze, and I only weigh 170lbs.
 
you guys rock :thumbsup: I kinda figured I wasn't torquing them enough. I saw another thread on here(deere I believe it was) with basically the same question. He to got the response that 120 ft/lbs is for singles and 140 ft/lbs for duals. Which would make sense why they broke. Hope it didn't damage the seat where the lugs press the wheel to the hub otherwise I'll be pretty bummed.

I actually just took Big Blue off the insurance today in order to start my buildup on her. Gonna rebuild the rear axle while she's down, cryo the axle shafts, new seals, air locker, disk brake conversion, driveshaft loops and u-joint guards. Then after everything suspension wise is done, its New Holland 6.6L time :devil:
 
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