• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

broke down, again!

Did you try putting a line on the front of the installed lift pump to run to your containers?

I've used a higher volume fuel pump with a hose running to the suction line to suck the tank dry also.

I used line large enough to fit over the hex parts of the lift pump with a fairly thick wall and clamprd it on. It fit fairly tight and had no leaks
 
Sticking my head in the thread to make mention of the little 'last ditch' screen inside the FFM... Maybe?
 
Sticking my head in the thread to make mention of the little 'last ditch' screen inside the FFM... Maybe?

Double checking the flow at the drain and lift pump can eliminate that as a possibility before you have to check it.

With the veg oil you may want to give the last ditch screen a check and clean regardless. It could have some buildup.

60% veggie oil could be the root of all of your problems. I've had luck with Sea Foam to help clear the crud.

IMHO it is best to use only oil that has been run through a processor.

There was a guy in St. Louis that had a very elaborate and expensive filtration setup. But he still had problems because the oil was not processed. It's cheaper and easier to set up and process the oil than to deal with problems.

I can't scroll back to reread as I post so I'm not sure what kind of oil you are talking. Processed oil can still cause problems if recently introduced to the system.

I started runnign soy at 3% or so - I don't really remember - but slowly brought it up to 11 - 20%. No problems.

A friend filled his tractor at my house and plugged everything up. All of my stuff runs fine on it.
 
last ditch was looked at and was clean. filters i have in place are working good.
didn't want to hook the batts back up to run the frame LP. just using the extra one. have 25 gallons so far. will finish it tomorrow. sock is the number one suspect. think its the prob on the 96 also. like i said, i will remove sock, install sump on bottom of tank.
oil is run through filter but not processed. i'm thinking the oil loosened the crud buildup from tank and needs to be cleaned. a baldwin screw on filter is much faster than dropping tank again and it only cost 12.00.
 
I wouldn't put that round 'sump' untreated already rusting part anywhere near the fuel system. It will battery with the tank coating and rust the tank too.

X2 on getting the sock out of the system. You may have the tank lining falling off and plugging the bypass valve till it gets sucked through. The 0 pressure and lift pump change points to this. Lift pumps loose their prime when the tank sock is plugged or eat something and stop clicking... My last new lift pump and walbro both had this issue with a plugged sock - pressure one day and none the next then pressure after a break/time sitting.

At 7 PSI steady with the engine running... I would not think you have a fuel restriction to the gauge. Rather I think you might have a kinked hose to the IP inlet under the intake. Otherwise a restriction to the IP or something gummed up in the IP.
 
i will give the lines a better look for kinks/restrictions but it has been running good before that so it leads me to believe some other things you mentioned: gummed up IP, FUEL SOCK(since it did have pressure after a sit). IP gumming should be there all the time?, not after a while after being on the road?.
i hear what you say about the sump. not only will it be a lot of trouble, it will cause the oil to plasticize which will cause other problems.
OK. right now i am resuming the tank drain so i will be in the know soon.........
 
dropped the tank, there was about 33 gallons:
e8f31f36.jpg

what the unit look like before:
87623705.jpg

after:
851d4bb0.jpg

sock WAS DEF blocked:
0ee84484.jpg

ee8be7c1.jpg

0466cf7a.jpg

fd7d040c.jpg

709d91ec.jpg

eaa4fcb2.jpg

sock removed. it just takes a tap with a screwdriver:
2ee3740e.jpg

thought i had to modify something more so i looked at the vent tube, noticed a small hole at the top, thought that was for bubbles:
3c327d41.jpg

then i said "cut it off":
9106aab9.jpg

little more:
22655c4b.jpg

hoping there will be no lag time with bubbles and the vent tube now. the tank would take in an extra 5 more gallons after it clicked off the first time and an extra 5-10 minutes to get a true top off, maybe not now.
all back together:
7e09c76d.jpg

tank is in. made sure o-rings were on the fill/return lines, ground strap was installed. also put assembly lube on the top pads of the tank to prevent corrossion from forming. guess moisture gets up there a lot as there was a little bit already.
took about 6 hours, start to finish. will take 3 minutes or less to change the filters. no brainer.
 
Like the man said, "Now there's your problem." Snot sock is right. Hope this solves the issues. I've dropped my tank a couple of times and while it isn't that difficult, it isn't a lot of fun.
 
yes, 8R19.5. tall and skinny. have about 30,000 one those rears and can't even tell. those are railroad rims. will get them painted when i get the bugs worked out.
 
yes, 8R19.5. tall and skinny. have about 30,000 one those rears and can't even tell. those are railroad rims. will get them painted when i get the bugs worked out.

Sweet! :thumbsup:

Would love to run 19.5's on my truck. One of these days I will have the money.
 
Nice. Good job. I've had luck running an occassional proper amount of Sea Foam to keep the snot off the sock. I like to give my vehicles a maintenance dose on occassion
 
She's Alive!!

when i took the IP apart the other day to check the screen, some parts came out at the rear that i'd never seen before. the parts are the ones that form a cross. they are 4 separate pieces and they plunge/scrape the side of something, not sure what it is. they have to go in crazy like and i had to do it with the pump still in and backwards, this i wasn't looking forward to. but it worked out:
f25fbc15.jpg

this is not the same pump because i never removed it.
after working out the air, cranking, shooting WD40, it started and stayed running, purred like a big kitten. there is one small problem though, water pump. noticed it 2 days ago and i had been losing coolant but couldn't find the problem.

will need to take it for a run, at least an hour to see what happens and build up my confidence.
any water pumps to avoid?, this has the 99 spin on fan.
 
here's a few i found:
-----------dieselinjectionservice--------
1994-1999 GM 6.5L Duramax - Alliant Power Water Pump for All Engines. AP63561 (OEM - 12556231 / 88894035 / 251-603 / 252-776).
Our Price: $164.90
------------RockAuto-----
ACDELCO Part # 251603 {#12456231, 19168609, 88894035} OE Design; Stamped Steel Impeller; Includes Mount Bolts
PUMP KIT,WAT W/GSKT, PULLEY
$271.89
-----------highwayandheavyparts-----
1999-2003 - 6.5L GM Water Pump
Price: $135.53
Condition: New Aftermarket
 
Search the AC Delco and Gm part numbers on Google, Ebay and Amazon. I'm not much for trusting aftermarket parts. I have a thread here someplacefrom when I put the new water pump on the 96 Suburban.
I used an AC Delco or GM part and the price wasn't all bad
 
Back
Top