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Brake issues 98

If I am following you correctly, You will have to use a sealant inside the sleeve - like a speedy sleeve or it will leak. I recently had a NEW bad seal on the 98 Suburban. I'm really hating the new crappy parts that seem to be so prevalent anymore
 
jrsavoie said:
If I am following you correctly, You will have to use a sealant inside the sleeve - like a speedy sleeve or it will leak. I recently had a NEW bad seal on the 98 Suburban. I'm really hating the new crappy parts that seem to be so prevalent anymore
Click to expand...
Nope,i used a lick of oil, the "sleeve" is rubberized in the ID and fits tightly over the slip ring were the old seal lip used to ride on the axle stub.
So in a nutshell the outer half is locked in the hub, the inner half is held stationary to the axle and the actual sealing is midway.
It comes in one piece and can't be taken apart, instal it in the hub and slide the drum/hub assembly on the axle stub as usuall, use the big ring nut to force the seal home, then adjust for proper bearing preload
 
Get the larger rear brake cylinders from the 3500 dually. They're like $5 from Rock Auto. Also change the proportioning valve. Installed the Raybestos R300 slotted rotors and I got much firmer brake pedal.

I personally think bison have place a curse on your truck; they want to live.
 
Got a PART NUMBER FOR THAT?

bison said:
Nope,i used a lick of oil, the "sleeve" is rubberized in the ID and fits tightly over the slip ring were the old seal lip used to ride on the axle stub.
So in a nutshell the outer half is locked in the hub, the inner half is held stationary to the axle and the actual sealing is midway.
It comes in one piece and can't be taken apart, instal it in the hub and slide the drum/hub assembly on the axle stub as usuall, use the big ring nut to force the seal home, then adjust for proper bearing preload
Click to expand...
 
Is your vent tube clear? That gets blocked by crud then the axle seals are usually where the pressure "vents"... along with your gear oil.
 
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