It's out of warranty by about 30,000 miles
Can anyone verify if this is a good PN- 1780683
Rockauto.com lists it as a new AC-D part (not reman)- $341 and no core.
ACDELCO Part # 1780683 {replaces 15814411 #15814411, 15854059}
BOOSTER,P/B w/BRK HYD PWR DISC(JH6) or BRK HYD PWR DISC(JH7)
No, I didn't scratch anything because I never actually inserted the screwdriver into the bore or removed the booster from the truck. I put slight pressure on the piston with the palm of one hand and used the flat side of a screwdriver to press the seal down working around the circumference until the seal was completely started in the bore and then pushed it the rest of the way in by hand. This was a number of years ago and it still does not leak. The rest of the seal kit was wasted because I only replaced the seal on the piston, but if doing it this way saved me 350.00 was it really wasted? Seems like I tried taking mine apart just like you did and mine wouldn't come apart either. I think it just pushes back together, but I can't remember for sure. The aluminum looking canister at the top is a nitrogen acumilator if I remember right. This allows you a way to get the truck stopped if the engine should quit while you are travelling down the road. Seems like that is what keeps you from taking the booster apart. Anyway. you shouldn't need anything other than the piston seal, if you can just get it to squeeze back together. Mike
Nope, removed the MC, then pushed the piston back enough to remove the star shaped retainer plate at the front, it can be turned sideways in the bore and removed. Then the piston will come out the front of the booster by applying a little pressure to the brake pedal, but just a little. The booster is still mounted to the firewall at this point and will not be removed or the outer case split in half. You can change the seal and reverse the procedure for putting the piston back in the booster. While holding the piston with one hand, use the flat side of a medium or large flat screwdriver to compress the lip of the seal and use light pressure on the piston to help the seal start into the bore. Insert the seal into the bore by working your way around the piston's circumference with the screwdriver, being careful to not stab or otherwise cut the lip of the seal. You will know when the seal has beed compressed and started in the bore because the piston will just slide in with a minimal amount of hand applied pressure on the front end of the piston. It's been 5-7 years since I did this and I've slept since then, so that's all I can remember about it. I've only had to reseal mine and haven't worked on another one before or since. I did it once and cut the seal putting it back in and I think I did it that time by splitting the booster case in half like I'm understanding you did. Seems like there is an internal groove in the bore that cuts the seal when you install it from the rear. That's why when I redid it, I went at it from the front, where the MC bolts on, that way the seal starts out on the correct side of that groove and has almost no chance of being cut unless you do it while trying to start the seal in the bore. Plus I was lazy and refused to unbolt all of that junk to take the booster off the truck again. Leaving it mounted to the firewall gives you a strong "work bench" to hold it securely while you work. Mike