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Borg Warner T-Case Leaks when parked nose down

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
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Worcester, MA
Been doing this for a while, I just learned to not park nose downhill and carry cardboard if I have too....

Anyone have any experience with this, what seal it could be, how hard it may be? Its annoying.

Thanks.
 
Can you see where it is coming from? My first thought was front output shaft. But if it only leaking when pointed downhill, that would mean you are out of fluid.
 
When I fill it it doesn't leak unless nose down. Needs a halfways decent pitch too.

When I had tranny rebuilt 1 1/2 ago they told me about it and said it would be another 400 to fix.... who knows what that means.

Whenever it leaks I just want to 'get outta there' so I havn't gone under it to really look hard. Figured I'd see if i get any bites on common failure points.

I learned to live with it, it barely happens, but happened yesterday on a customers freshly sealed driveway... I didn't think the pitch was enough to make it leak so I didn't get my cardboard down for the first hour I was there... made a mess.

Speedy-dry and cardboard and 'rub it in' .... I can get it out just about 100% .. just looks unprofessional as all hell...
 
Sounds like it may be the shift shaft seal to me. The shift shaft is right at the upper end of the fluid level towards the front of the case, pointing it downhill would bring the level above the shaft.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Sounds like it may be the shift shaft seal to me. The shift shaft is right at the upper end of the fluid level towards the front of the case, pointing it downhill would bring the level above the shaft.
Click to expand...

For conversation purposes, how difficult to replace that seal? What needs to be dropped? Tranny?
 
Changed out a u-joint on the front driveshaft, took it off and cleaned up my t-case. It appears to be leaking right where the front driveshaft attaches too. When I cleaned it up and blew it dry with air, it remained wet.

How hard is that seal to replace?
 
There aint a lot of room there,the yoke has to come off to get to that seal. IF you remove the cross member,accessabillity will be greatly improved.

I just removed the T case on the 95 today, and one out of my parts truck to replace it,had to do the same job twice. Not too much fun all by my lonesome.:nonod:lots of:cuss:
 
bison said:
There aint a lot of room there,the yoke has to come off to get to that seal. IF you remove the cross member,accessabillity will be greatly improved.

I just removed the T case on the 95 today, and one out of my parts truck to replace it,had to do the same job twice. Not too much fun all by my lonesome.:nonod:lots of:cuss:
Click to expand...

I see the crossmember can help issues. I would assume the tranny place took it off to drop the tranny 2 years ago, so it may come off easy.


It seemed like I had a decent amount of room there. Impact that nut off, then the yoke? comes off. Then just pick the seal out? I've never done this before. But like anything else, its probably easy once you do it.
 
Matt Bachand said:
I see the crossmember can help issues. I would assume the tranny place took it off to drop the tranny 2 years ago, so it may come off easy.
Click to expand...
Maybe, if the suckers used antisieze on them bolts? dont hold your breath though.

It seemed like I had a decent amount of room there. Impact that nut off, then the yoke? comes off. Then just pick the seal out? I've never done this before. But like anything else, its probably easy once you do it.
Click to expand...
Not when laying on your back it aint:nonod:
 
There seems to be a fraction of play between the yoke and the 1 1/16th? bolt. I assume that is normal, and experience taught me that simply 'tighteneing' this bolt would not fix the problem.

I'm not tackling this today, just gonna feel it out and plan when I should tackle it.

Once I have the yoke off (i assume that is the piece that the driveshaft bolts to), How hard is that seal to get out, and then tap a new one in? Perhaps put it in the freezer as TD mentioned on rear main seal thread?

AAMCO quoted me about 400 bux to fix this when my tranny was out. I said no. Looking at it doesn't look too tough, but then again nothing does.

Crossmember may or may not come off easy. Probably not is a safe assumption as I live and plow in the salt belt. Damn you southerners that every bolt comes off easy like watching an episode of 'shadetree mechanic'!!
 
the Yoke should be tight on the shaft,no play between nut and yoke or on the splines or brgs.

I live in gravel road country,everything underneath is always covered in a thick layer of packed dirt, stones and rust.:mad2:
 
bison said:
the Yoke should be tight on the shaft,no play between nut and yoke or on the splines or brgs.

I live in gravel road country,everything underneath is always covered in a thick layer of packed dirt, stones and rust.:mad2:
Click to expand...

Maybe I should try to tighten it up then. How tight does this get? Its big, so as tight as possible by hand can't hurt I would assume.

Should have tried to tighten it while shaft was out... now everythings put back away and I'm cleaned up. Maybe next weekend I'll try to tighten it. Would that squeeze the seal better?

Wouldn't the tranny shop try to do this? Maybe they are the ones who loosened it so it would leak to get more money outta me... Can't trust anyone anymore.
 
Matt, it sounds somewhat like the output shaft on my 95's t-case. The thing started leaking like a sieve when I put oil in. I pulled the plate off my rebuilt transfer case, and it wasn't to bad. Impact that nut off, and then if you can, use a pulled to pull that yoke/plate off. Mine was very hard to pull off.
 
Matt Bachand said:
Maybe I should try to tighten it up then. How tight does this get? Its big, so as tight as possible by hand can't hurt I would assume.

Should have tried to tighten it while shaft was out... now everythings put back away and I'm cleaned up. Maybe next weekend I'll try to tighten it. Would that squeeze the seal better?

Wouldn't the tranny shop try to do this? Maybe they are the ones who loosened it so it would leak to get more money outta me... Can't trust anyone anymore.
Click to expand...
Tightening the nut up might help keep it from flopping around,but wont do much for the seal IMO,as the seal rides on the yoke extension OD. nut torque spec would be guestimate 150 + lbs
 
Is it leaking by the nut or behind the yoke? If it is leaking by the nut then your leak isn't the seal. That nut has to be tight down onto the yoke, and the threads of the yoke to the shaft should have a layer of grey silicone on them to prevent fluid from going between the splines and working it's way out behind the washer.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Is it leaking by the nut or behind the yoke? If it is leaking by the nut then your leak isn't the seal. That nut has to be tight down onto the yoke, and the threads of the yoke to the shaft should have a layer of grey silicone on them to prevent fluid from going between the splines and working it's way out behind the washer.
Click to expand...

This is the type of info I'm looking for so next time I go look at it I know what exactly to look for. I have no idea how the system works. I'm learning here.

Thank you. Any other things to look for?
 
96 OILBURNER said:
Manual calls for 165 ft/lbs on the front and 125 ft/lbs on the rear.
Click to expand...

TYVM. I wonder what piece of information I lost by burning that new tidbit into my brain...

I'll retorque it to 165 and see if anything changes.

Front spec being the front output shaft I assume.
 
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