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Boost fooler elbows

Nessmuk

Well-Known Member
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East Amazonian polar region
I got mine and put it in. The set screw is so loose it rattles, so I put Indian Head on it. How much of the hole should be blocked to begin?
Also, 1/8 inch needle valves cost less, and are more precise. Why wouldn't an all brass one of those be better?
Same goes for oil restrictions to bypass filters, they are cheaper than the little brass piece with just a hole in it.
 
Not sure what you are talking about boost fooler elbow?

I don't think you can use a mechanical restriction fooler and adjust a pressure reading because there isn't much flow to the sensor. It might cause some lag to reading but pressure would still equalize across a restriction and read high pressure.

A needle valve could fine tune a bypass oil flow but keep in mind as pressure changes so does flow through any given size until it chokes.
 
Who sales it? I haven't seen one. I was thinking you were blocking the MAP to fool computer sensor.

But the waste gate doesn't get much flow either but the solenoid does waste vacuum adjusting vacuum force so again it might lag the adjustment but its still going to equalize and not sustain the "fooling" I wouldn't think.

Kennedy use to add some wiring (a resistor pack or something) to the MAP (boost pressure sensor for ECM) to increase the sensors resistance (or reduce it putting a resistor in parallel ?)making the ECM think boost was lower than it was actually, This allowed more boost to be ran without triggering a code and may have let the ECM call for more boost not sure about that part. That is the only boost fooler I am aware of that works.
 
I expected a check ball and a spring inside the elbow. Then by tightening the set screw, it would take more boost to get to the controller.
All it is, is a set screw that screws in to block off the passage more or less.
 
you might have all that pertinent info in your signature but.. Alot of us on our phones can't see that. Back on subject IIRC people were able to adjust they're wastegate without a boost fooler, at least to some degree
 
I wasn't being snarky, I knew you couldn't see my injection pump from that far away, besides, the hoods down.
I'm just trying to understand this little elbow thing. Maybe it decreases the cfm and the wastegate valve flutters more than opens and so boost stays higher.
 
The idea is to block airflow to the wastegate, keeping it shut longer, thus creating more boost. However, most stock wastegates are more than the 6.5L can handle anyways without big mods. I never hooked my boost line to my wastegate on my HX40 60/74/14 and drive pressure alone overcomes spring tension at 27psi and it opens anyways. The stock boost pre-set on the wastegate is at 25psi, so if I use it as a rough judge of boost/drive ratio, the turbo is running pretty damn close to 1:1 for me. Just snugging the wastegate rod down to increase spring tension will increase boost farther than a elbow will. Regardless of where the elbow boost is set, drive pressure will open the wastegate anyways by over coming that spring tension, if it is all controlled by boost pressure, which 90% of wastegates seem to be. Most are adjustable
 
Mine is snugged up tight as far as the rod goes. I see close to 10psi at full throttle but never higher. I'm hoping to get up to 20psi. There isn't a lot of space for a boost leak, just one connection, and the exhaust is all tight and new.
 
I have a thought regarding a pressure limiting setup to the wastegate controller.
First a needle valve, then an adjustable pressure relief valve, say 10 psi and up. Plumb it into the hose that goes to the controller. Would that make a stable, higher, boost level?
I'm thinking a relief valve would avoid having the wastegate fluttering and causing pressure pulsing.
Would just a pressure valve do the same?
 
I didn't see it discussed, but likely missed it.
There's two types of boost foolers.
Vented/relief valve and a fooler/sealed.
The vented type can actually cause a noticeable boost leak.
The second one is literally the same as a air regulator valve.



Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
I've seen both, and like the one I have now, just a valve. I'd call it more of a boost slower, as I think it just shows how quickly the boost pressure rises to the controller.
The air regulator type might be alright, if it holds up to the vibration and temps. I bet an airbrush spray gun regulator would work slick.
 
I've seen both, and like the one I have now, just a valve. I'd call it more of a boost slower, as I think it just shows how quickly the boost pressure rises to the controller.
The air regulator type might be alright, if it holds up to the vibration and temps. I bet an airbrush spray gun regulator would work slick.

Now that might work just fine. You could run a longer hose and remote mount the regulator farther from higher heat areas and the extra hose length could hold a little more air and help dampen and steady the signal and waste gate opening force.
 
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