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Bolt holes in starter

I measured my spare unit and got 10.07 or 10.1mm. Ensure you use M10 Starter bolts. Quadstar sells ARP units (special run, not on ARPs web page) or NAPA has them too. Don't forget the bracket at the front though.
Don't try using 3/8" starter bolts because, while they'll thread in to the block (I know) and they will probably torque to 35ft lbs (they did) they'll probably strip out the block's threads (I got VERY lucky).
 
Paveltolz said:
I measured my spare unit and got 10.07 or 10.1mm. Ensure you use M10 Starter bolts. Quadstar sells ARP units (special run, not on ARPs web page) or NAPA has them too. Don't forget the bracket at the front though.
Don't try using 3/8" starter bolts because, while they'll thread in to the block (I know) and they will probably torque to 35ft lbs (they did) they'll probably strip out the block's threads (I got VERY lucky).
Click to expand...
I used the ARP bolts from Quadstar and they are good.
 
Paveltolz said:
I measured my spare unit and got 10.07 or 10.1mm. Ensure you use M10 Starter bolts. Quadstar sells ARP units (special run, not on ARPs web page) or NAPA has them too. Don't forget the bracket at the front though.
Don't try using 3/8" starter bolts because, while they'll thread in to the block (I know) and they will probably torque to 35ft lbs (they did) they'll probably strip out the block's threads (I got VERY lucky).
Click to expand...
I got my ARP bolts from Summit racing, can't recall the part number but they came with some sort of spacer washer that one side was dished out. no instructions as to how the spacers went in though.
 
Is your starter one of the factory style ones from the auto parts stores by chance? could be that when they put it together or if it's a chineesium copy the holes might have been drilled slightly too large. Powermaster is the way to go hands down but if your not wanting that yet, measure the holes and OD of the starter bolts. might be able to use a piece of copper or stainless tubing to take up the slack. might have to use a cut off wheel on a drimmel to split the tubing just to get the sizing right, but it's only to center the bolt. once it's torqued down along with the bracket in place you should be good.

pay close attention to the bracket making sure it's not bent. mine was bent when I pulled it. I actually took a scrap piece of angle iron longer than the bracket so that the end continued down to almost the level of the oil pan. drilled the holes for the bolts. when mounted to the block the end of the angle iron just barley rested on the block near the oil pan giving more strength. I have some pics somewhere I can share if you want them.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I got my ARP bolts from Summit racing, can't recall the part number but they came with some sort of spacer washer that one side was dished out. no instructions as to how the spacers went in though.
Click to expand...
The side of the washer that is dished goes to the bolt head. Use anti seize between the washer and any surfaces the washer comes in contact with.
I emailed ARP about that same question. I like to call that co. AARP. 🤷😹😹
If the NAPA bolts are stainless steel then be sure to use an anti seize on those too,
Be sure to use some sort of an antiseize compound, or some type of a good lube, on the bolt threads as that stainless steel will gall the threads without some type of lube.
As suggested by You, @dbrannon79 IIRC, I got the nickel base anti seize just for stainless bolt threads.
On the starter bolts I coated the entire bolt to maybe help as a non corrosive between the aluminum starter end housing and the stainless steel bolts.
 
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I saved the OE starter from My truck after installing the PM starter.
As good as the PM starter is I guess I’m hanging onto that for the just in case the PM starter has a failure.
I’m not stating that in a bad manner, just a matter of fact statement.
I would not like it if there just happened to be a failure of the PM starter.
I do believe that the components within the PM starter are common to any of the starters of that style so items like the bearings, brushes, bushings and solenoid contact components are available through the parts stores or even John Deere if You know the model no. Of a tractor that uses that same style of a starter.
 
The powermaster starter is a denso style starter with a modified nose cone. very common and stout starter, they are a much better design than others out there. so parts are available. I just wish I knew what nose cone they used. I am still looking for a used / broken one that I would be able to rebuild to a working unit for the 93.
 
jrsavoie said:
I got irritated and junked all of the GM 6.5 starters I had here
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When I had the no start on the ‘94, I had no time to test to make sure it was it was the starter. I just ordered the PowerMaster starter and installed it. It worked as soon as it was installed, so my conclusion that the old starter failed was correct. Old starter sat in the PowerMaster box on the passenger seat until I dropped it off at Napa this past Saturday.
 
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