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blown head gasket???

Change the fuel filter and clean the FFM out real good. Bad fuel could take a little time to build up to a problem.
 
Open the T-Drain and drain some into a clear glass and let it sit to get a good visual.

If you suspect it bad, you could feed the IP out of a fresh 5 gallon diesel can to verify.

If it is bad, need to drain it out. Could jumper the LP and empty out of the water drain (t-valve drain), or drop the tank and really clean it out good.
 
I took off the outlet off the lift pump when we did a few of ours. Threaded another line in and ran the fuel into cans. I always get out the gallon pickle jar and half fill it or more from the drain. Sometimes it takes a while for water to show up. I've waited 20 minutes or more. Sometimes you can tell while running the fuel into the jar. Kind of like a lump of nothing.
I use an electric fuel pump to clean out the filter bowl when changing the filter. Works really well. I suck the bowl out then pour some Sea Foam in and suck it out again if it's not clean after the first go round.
 
It did overheat though correct, blew water out the fill tube? Pulling that much, and on a stock tune? Gauges or SES light didnt give any warning?
 
Well I cleaned the FFM and put a new fuel filter in today no change in the way the truck runs still has no power

The fuel I got looks good to me has no dirt in it and no water
 
anyone have any ideas on what is wrong with this thing????

I pulled the valve covers everthing looks to be inorder I am going to get a comprestion tester my when i get my next pay check

I dont get it it will start and idol but has no power, falls on its face when I put it in gear and try to move it... In need of some help from people that really know this motor

Thanks Adam
 
well one person says one thing one says another and well im not sure anymore, dosent blow any smoke other than the normal and the upper rad hose dosent get hard when under cold start..... any other signs to look for??? And I got a few ofhter questions that would help me if answerd also.

what should the compreason gauge read for a good cylinder

What size is the injector so I know what comprestion gauge to buy

if it is the head gasget should i have the heads checked out, would it be bad to just toss a new gasget on and see what happens?

And here is another thought, could i have a IP proplem or a timeing chain problem?
 
around 400 with the lowest at 300

The compression guage goes in where the glows go

yes have the heads checked if you pull them

as far as power if your certain the lift pump and fuel system is working right and your pmd is good then IMO I would suspect IP. most other stuff would set codes
 
NCadam said:
what should the compreason gauge read for a good cylinder
400psi, this is why any regular gas compression gauge to 300 is not good enough, harbor freight sell one that goes to 1000psi

What size is the injector so I know what comprestion gauge to buy
Might not find the right injector size, easiest method is through Glow Plug hole, also see THIS THREAD

if it is the head gasget should i have the heads checked out, would it be bad to just toss a new gasget on and see what happens?
Should have the heads checked out, may have warped and cracked

And here is another thought, could i have a IP proplem or a timeing chain problem?
Not likely, are there any codes that may suggest it? Timing and incorrect fuel rates would throw codes
Click to expand...

In BLUE above
 
ok sweet im off to a good start now all I need is no rain!!! Can I check codes still with the motor apart... I only pulled the turbo intake and valve covers and what would be a good inexpensive code reader to buy?
 
You can still check codes, when you started it up and at idle was there an SES light on? If not then you wouldnt have a timing or IP code, or any fuel circuit code.

The PCM stores a code history. You just need to turn IGN to ON, dont need to crank. Its OBD2, so any reader should work, but come back to the site for the correct meaning of the codes, its in the library. Parts stores typically allow you to borrow readers.

Ideally, the compression should all be within 50psi, so difference between lowest and highest should not be more than 50psi.
 
well todays lesson is you dont get any codes when the batt has been disconected for a week.... I feel like a tard cause i know it resets after 30 min... but yet I still took the time to get a scaner and plug it up to get nothing.... should have stayed in bed today, or all month the way things are going.

I will have to put the intake back/ valve covers back on to pull codes (took them off to makes sure all the push rods and junk looked good...

I will get a compresion tester this weekend and go from there... if it reads out good i will put it back together fire it up and let it get codes then pull them...
 
so I checked my fuel pressure today Pre FFM was 6-7lbs (I tested at the hose that goes into the FFM) should it be that low there?
 
Thats decent pressure, when it gets to the IP will be a a few psi less through the FFM, but that is almost the same as checking it at the fuel drain, because the drain is prefiltered.
 
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