• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

blower fan

deezl duly

deezl duly

Member
Messages
49
Reaction score
0
Location
riverside ca.
got the blown fuse fixed...thx for all the help..it was a wire tucked behind the turbo..once again u guys bailed me out...anyway ive had a problem for a while with the heater/ac fan not blowin on high..now it goes off intermittently..i heard theres a small circuit board that controls it...or could it be the switch itself? both are a hassle want ur opinion...thanks folk..coul never have gotten this old girl goin without your help...
 
There is common failure a resistor pack that the switch sends the electrons through different resistor sizes to the hvac fan but usually when it goes out you loose the medium and low speeds. Might be related could have a weird burn up.
 
Sounds more like the fan switch or control head to me. Each one of the wire spring resistors is for a certain speed if they all burn out you still have high. There's also a diode or something in there and when it pops you have nothing IIRC. Also check the electrical disconnect plug where it comes out the fan as they are known to melt and cause issues.
 
High fan speed bypasses the resistor block. When on high speed, there is a relay behind the dash that routes the power directly from the power wire coming through the firewall up behind the glove box through a relay straight to the fan. There is only the power wire, relay, and blower switch involved in high speed. Check the connection behind the glove box for melting as that is where most blower motor problems show up. But a bad blower motor is what normally causes the plug to melt.
 
1995's were the worst control heads. (Not sure what year yours is.) The wires for the blower motor can corrode and each and every connector is suspect. All years can melt the connector hidden in anti-rattle foam wrap, pics in link below, as well as other control head issues including the cheap to replace fan switch itself on 1995 control heads as described here:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...ers-w-blower-off-erratic-or-no-airflow.28385/

If you find melted connectors I recommend replacing the blower motor due to excessive current draw and adding a ground strap from the blower motor itself to a good ground. Note aftermarket "cheap" motors are nosier than the AC Delco spec motors and "tick" at lower speeds. I can hear the "tick" over a 6.5 with a loud exhaust - just saying.

Last be careful as the melted connectors still get hot with use and can burn you esp when you are NOT expecting it to be that hot. An IR heat gun can help you find a suspect connection w/o burns.
 
Most replacement control heads are all the 96+ style, and if you order it for a 95 it comes with an adapter harness to plug it in. 95 was just a different wiring pinout is all, but there were some sligh5 operational differenc3s in how the actual board was layed out, hence why the newer heads will work with an adapter. But control heads have no bearing on the fan speed, just the blower switch does which is seperate on all of them.
 
thx for all the help..this truck has been the MOST dependable vehicle ive ever owned for the last six years.with this website and all of your help theres nothin I haven't been able to fix..however ...recently she turned into CHRISTINE...started blowin the big 30 amp ignition fuses out of nowhere..think I had a pinched wire so that stopped...THEN...wouldn't start with the key..replaced a relatively new starter..still nothing..meanwhile if I jumped it across the starter terminals with my long prybar with the key on..it started every time..bit the bullet..replaced the 132.00 ignition switch...nothin...still started with the prybar..gave up wired a switch directly to the starter....works sometimes...tonite I'm replacing the neutral safety switch...im out of ideas..could it be one of my batteries are bad?..i have no more ideas ...sorry to be so long winded ..wanted to cover everything...once again thanks in advance for any and all help....
 
First load test the batteries.
Then check all the connectors from batteries to starter and starter solenoid.
It is common for those connector to be bad or the cables can be bad with age.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top