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Blow By

well put the auto rx in the truck yesterday so I hope that fixes it oh I had to mangle the oil filter to get it off(the moron that owned it before over tightened it)
 
My 95 took pulling the front drive shaft and large pipe wrench or channel locks to get it off, any looser and it would vibrate off or drip. I ended up with a remote mount dual bypass. 93 K3500 and 94 K3500 never took that kind of effort no matter how tight I tighten them. Not sure what the difference is, maybe warped sealing surface?

Auto RX can't hurt but if the engine is shot its not a cure all. Good luck let us know how it goes.
 
I had the base of my filter seriously chewed and nearly took the canister part off the base on mine. I had a thread about it either here or on DP a few yrs ago. That was the first PITA experience with the 95, we butted heads that once and agreed to disagree ever since and mutually agreed on dual bypass lol.
 
pulled the filter adapter last time on the 93. I think I cooked the gasket to the adapter, it was only 3K miles, but they were over 18K lbs most of the way. gonna get some more 2wds going, as I really hate that 4wd adapter. In the process of getting the 95 GMC converted to puller duty in fact.
 
I'm doing an experiment with the cdr, I opened it up and filled it with some steel wool. Hopefully it will trap the oil and let it drain back to the valve cover.


The first two pics are the opened cdr
Photo0094.jpg
Photo0095.jpg

Everything set back together
Photo0096.jpg

I put a thin bead of red silicone, then bent the lip back down.
Photo0097.jpg

I had done one previous and cut it apart then Tigged it back together, doing that the diaphram had to be removed. This way it wasn't harmed.
 
I'm doing an experiment with the cdr, I opened it up and filled it with some steel wool. Hopefully it will trap the oil and let it drain back to the valve cover.

The only thing going through my mind looking at this is the possibility of some of the steel wool getting sucked into the turbo. There already is a large steel mesh just below the CDR in the valve cover. It DOESN'T stop debris from going through the CDR and turbo on a spectacular engine failure.
 
That had crossed my mind as well, I had thought of putting a metal screen of sorts on the exit tube of the CDR. The screen I have in mind isn't accessible right now.

Also, if a spectacular engine failure happens, SHTF already.
 
Remember the problem is crankcase pressure has to be removed. For many a moon this was done by road venting until the experts decided this was not good for pollution. Abracadabra - recirculated oil VAPORS. The mesh doesn't stop the vapors it slows the flow. If you have a canister or piping system to capture the vapor as it turs to liquid you can recover and rerun the oil into the crankcase. You would need a paper filter with the factory hose routing to capture all the oil, but it will plug quickly. If your mesh is thick enough to capture a lot of it when it fills it the vacuum will try to pull it through causing either lack of pressure evacuation from the crankcase or will suck some of the mesh towards the turbo. Be sure to physically restrain it or you will have a new clean spot in the turbo.

I built a "p" trap system years ago for this that had to be drained weekly in most of the trucks it was on. It worked but I don't bother with one on my personal rig now. I never liked the idea of per turbo pull, oil mist hitting a 10,000 rpm blade not smart in my book. If I were to experiment again I would look at after cdr a 1way valve then an air pump going in post turbo with another 1 way valve. No back flow anywhere, and forced air/oil mist at an adjustable rate so you could have more crankcase vacuum at higher turbo pressures when the crankcase needs it most. A lot of extra things to maintain too...

All that if I want to keep Mother Earth happy buy not venting to the road or doing an exhaust draw system that uses post turbo exhaust flow to generate vacuum and pull mist into the exhaust.

Option a: spend money save the earth
Option b: save money pollute more
My hummer is GREEN (until I paint it).
My truck sees water line up to the windshield more than once a year, so I have to keep my system sealed.
Best of luck.
 
The mesh provides a lot of surface for oil vapor to condense on or oil droplets to hit. Same idea of the steel wool.

Blade erosion in 150K miles from water mist or oil mist on the turbo is not an issue. Bigger drops or water mist done badly is an issue. Debris from a wreck or total engine failure are harder on turbos I have found.
 
What WW said about the mesh. what you need to slow down the flow (to allow for coalescing) is volume. the mesh itself does nothing to slow it down. The OEM system is trying to get the oil vapors to coalesce in the valve cover before it goes out that 1" hole the CDR plugs into, which works fine with no blowby. I doubt the CDR itself has enough volume to slow down the vapors enough to coalesce.
 
I'm going to try this for awhile and see if oil consumption goes down. I don't have much blowby, but since I went to the Nano fibre filter it uses more oil. The turbo draws way more fumes in now. I'm constantly resetting the filter indicator.

I'm using the one without the diaphragm and will switch to the one with in awhile. I don't think the steel wool will be sucked in as it is quite hard to tear, and there isn't much space for it to get into the tube. I may tack a washer in the outlet tube to reduce the flow.
 
Yall talking about oil vapor condensing back to a liquid... Well my lil appalachian mountain brandy maker, er still, uses a copper worm coil to condense the vapor back into some mighty fine sippin brandy. Why cant you put a worm going upward n the oil will condense and gravity flow back inside the valve cover. Uhh be kind fellows just a cowboy here, no real mechanical skill.
 
Bill, seems like a waste of copper tubing that could be used to make fine Brandy.;)
 
My CDR high volume slow flow rig

My CDR high volume slow flow rig and other visible mods.:rolleyes5:
Poor quality pics with the laptop camera; I can't find my 'regular' camera.:skep:
It's a gradual incline and allows oil to flow back into the CDR.
Decreased oil consumption and stopped the oil drips on the floor.:thumbsup:
If you have really good eyes,
you can see my super bug screen / cooling stack protector and drilled (cooler) grille crossmember,
the elevated FM and rerouted fuel lines,
fuel pressure isolator for the mechanical gauge,
the air filter support that allows the filter to move with the engine and isolates some noise from the interior,
and maybe even the double wires from the alt to the right battery.
2_28_13 6.5.jpg2_28_2013 6.5.jpg2_28_13 bug screen.jpg
 
Bill, seems like a waste of copper tubing that could be used to make fine Brandy.;)

I know where you are hiding your still now! Boiling it off the manifolds and using the cooling fan to speed things up, eh? :hihi:

At some point you start to condense water the engine is trying to get rid of. So overkill would be a bad thing.
 
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