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Block heater

SnowDrift

SnowDrift

Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
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What is the recommended block heater for our trucks? OEM would be just fine for me. I see Unique Diesel carries them.

I did find a Katz 11612 also.

Theirs is short and stubby in comparison to the others I see for sale which look longer. I don't know what the factory one looked like and I can't check it since someone threw my old engine away...
 
The heater in the block of my truck, I think, was OE and it kept the engine nice and warm even at over 20 below zero.
It would even warm the hood enough to melt snow and create ice when it got colder.
I’m now thinking of hooking into two 600 watt units.
One on each side if there is room around the engine mounts.
Of course though, a pair of 1,000 watters and the engine would be near operating temp during the coldest cold spell. 😹😹😹
 
ak diesel driver said:
I don't know for sure but I think all of them have a built in over heat shutdown
Click to expand...
I plug the backhoe into an external thermostat, I lay the sensor on the block, to keep the block at least 60 degrees.

If I know I'm going to start it and have time, I skip the thermostat and plug directly into the power bar. To warm it up just a little bit more

I'm not sure I'd want to do that on the trucks or Jeep. They're not daily drivers and the cozy warm engine compartment might be inviting to mice
 
as far as I know there is no overheat or stat on the elements for our trucks. I do know that after a little while after leaving my connected, as long as everything around os quiet I can hear sizzle and gurgling in the area where the block heater is on my engine. it's a faint sound but it can be heard. almost the same sound as you would hear from a electric water heater as it boils the water around the element.

I think what would really help in our situation is simply a flow device to move the coolant slowly around in the block. Not sure where we could connect one though. Maybe something on the back head block off plates but would have to be a no flow though when it's not turned on with the block heater.
 
I plugged into an outlet and can't get 120v anywhere on the end of the cord at the heater. I tried probes in all 3 holes in about every combination I could so I'm guessing the wire is broken somewhere.

Does anyone have the part number for the OEM cord?
 
SnowDrift said:
I plugged into an outlet and can't get 120v anywhere on the end of the cord at the heater. I tried probes in all 3 holes in about every combination I could so I'm guessing the wire is broken somewhere.

Does anyone have the part number for the OEM cord?
Click to expand...
Often they go bad at the plug.

It's about as expensive to buy a good male plug as it is for the new cord.

block heater cord 6.5 diesel - Google Search

www.google.com
 
jrsavoie said:
Often they go bad at the plug.

It's about as expensive to buy a good male plug as it is for the new cord.

block heater cord 6.5 diesel - Google Search

www.google.com
Click to expand...
Yup.
I always clip the cord end off where the extension cord plugs into, strip back the wires some then do a retest.
If then the cord and heater tests good I just add a new end onto the cord. Dont even need to dismount the cord from the heater.
I have never had one go bad after installing a new cord end, but, I dont let the end of the cord hang outside of the vehicle.
I make up a short cord to take the beating beyond the hood. 👍😹
 
MrMarty51 said:
Yup.
I always clip the cord end off where the extension cord plugs into, strip back the wires some then do a retest.
If then the cord and heater tests good I just add a new end onto the cord. Dont even need to dismount the cord from the heater.
I have never had one go bad after installing a new cord end, but, I dont let the end of the cord hang outside of the vehicle.
I make up a short cord to take the beating beyond the hood. 👍😹
Click to expand...
Yep. I test for continuity at the plug. If no continuity, I make sure the cord didn't get unplugged from the block heater.

Made that mistake once. Cost me about 5 minutes.
 
Do you guys in rusty areas use an electrical grease on yours?
There is di-electric grease which is an insulator that could be applied liberally- homedepot type places sell it.

There is also a contact improver that is highly conductive so has to be applied with great care like a tiny amount via tooth pick into the socket then wipe off any excess that might have touched the surface.

Both of them are to seal of oxygen from getting to the connection and help prevent corrosion.

The second one btw is awesome for the GM ground connections. Either one is good for battery posts.
 
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