Rodd
Recruit
After replacing my hydroboost the instruction sheet says to bleed the system by filling the power steering tank to the neck and pump the brakes to bleed. It says nothing about opening up a line to let the air out. Is it that simple?
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Bleeding Hydroboost
- Thread starter Rodd
- Start date
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
IIRC you should also be turning the steering from lock to lock while depressing the brake.
Rodd
Recruit
Yes you are correct it says turn steering wheel stop to stop but doesn't say anything about opening up a valve as you would with your brakes.
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
I believe it is self bleeding (no valve) probably will take several trys with long waits in between to let the foam in the oil dissipate.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
The booster is not vented only your power steering pump is, depressing the pedal will remove any trapped air in the booster assembly.
The biggest enemy of the hydro-boost is a grain of sand which in most cases will score the power piston (usual) and or the bore (rare) it rides in then a leak will develop in between the booster and master cylinder. I rebuild my units and buy military surplus power pistons @ $20. ea. for this reason....
A good hydraulic filter and/or fluid return filter w/aux p/s cooler will help longevity of the p/s and components attached to the system.
The biggest enemy of the hydro-boost is a grain of sand which in most cases will score the power piston (usual) and or the bore (rare) it rides in then a leak will develop in between the booster and master cylinder. I rebuild my units and buy military surplus power pistons @ $20. ea. for this reason....
A good hydraulic filter and/or fluid return filter w/aux p/s cooler will help longevity of the p/s and components attached to the system.
Rodd
Recruit
Thanks for the info. I'll go get started.
btfarm
America First!
You could check out the thread on flushing PS and hydro boost in the DIY section. Itwas for The newer trucks but pretty much works on yours too
cornemuse
Well-Known Member
Is hydroboost unit same for pu, blazer, suburban? Or they set diff for diff axel weights?
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Commonly, the accumulator's differ according to brake RPO of vehicle and years could be spring or gas charged. The hydro's are all adjustable for output as in heavier vehicle applications, spool valves can differ between brands, power pistons can vary in throw, then there is the actuating rod to the brake pedal they come in various lengths.