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Billet cam manufactures

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Pauline, SC
As some know, I consulted a diesel cam designer to see what he would come up with for my particular build.

Well I now have his recommendations and as suspected their is no way a "regrind" will get the specs. So I have contacted a couple billet cam company's looking for a quote or even someone that will at the least talk with me.. no luck yet...

So, does anyone know of a cam company I can attempt to talk with ?
 
I'm a little hesitant to publish the recommended specs, it is very different from stock specs... but the recommendation was with my motor & head specs, to date I haven't found anyone that has went the billet route, just regrinds...
 
The "new" specs are said to move the torque rpm range up, I asked for a on road heavy towing spec, not a low end torque spec, I will be spending more time in the 2400-2700rpm range than getting it moving was my theory...
He also said the the stock cam was designed to bleed off cylinder pressures, probably to save hard parts and make the motor more people friendly...
 
Ok... Lemme catch my breath a minute...

110.4 to 104 So you are blowing out a lot more air- completely purged cylinder for no chance of waste left behind. Giving up a little boost top end for pure clean colder air and going to make it up with torque being carried longer through the rpm band into higher rpm.
 
@Will L. , funny thing is when I questioned the lower intake lift, his reply was the heads would be great as is for high rpm's as 4500-5000, then the lift would need to be back at stock numbers, but for what I asked for this was best..
And he did give torque & HP levels, but without a engine dyno I'm not sure I believe that part so I won't say...
 
Anyone in question of if scavenging would effect on this engine- this would do it. But a high flowing turbo and the monster cfm in your heads, no scavenging because the turbo will work like a blower and blow straight through cleaning the cylinders out ensuring a more complete burn. So you aren’t just going to pull power up higher, but will be far cleaner in emissions both nox and co2. So any extra fuel dumped in that will leave a trail, will drop egt when doing it like the tractor pullers.

you just posted again. I was getting to that power part in a minute- 90+ % of 6.5 engine building people probably think it is wrong how you are doing this. I see where it is going, my 69 Camaro was an on the street alcohol car. The numbers are sick possible here. Fueling is the only limit. Gotta re look at some numbers...

So, tightening that valve overlap but with the shift in timing- that would be a smoke show with heavy fueled stock heads. But I think I see why he did that with the surplus of air you are moving. That is how you keep the speed of the air flow up even though it is larger area. Boyles law says bigger area and same volume is lower speed, but the swing in timing means a later push so it will be like holding your thumb over the garden hose until the very last second to take advantage of the increased pressure.

How controllable is that turbo for the bottom end? Lag will be reduced greatly by the cooler in the intake instead of infront of the radiator- but lag is a potential still. An automatic transmission is easy because a stall that is up 200-250 rpm more and that gets eliminated. But you have a manual and towing heavy means you sure don’t want “boosted launch” from a stick. How easy is it to be on 6-8 lbs boost at 1200 rpm?
 
I like what he did with thoes cam specs. It's interesting to see the intake lift was lowered like that. But with your heads that makes sense.

I'm going to run stock heads and I was thinking about leaving the lift and duration specs the same and just tightening up the LSA to 107* or maybe 106*. That should help spool time on my 62mm.

As far as cam companies in not familiar with any off hand that can do what you need. I was referred to Oregon Cam grinding years ago but I think all they do are regrinds. I've been meaning to contact them for a while now.
 
See. This. This right here- is why I shouldn’t play with you guys. I know the amount of money I can justify for my new turbo, and this isn’t helping that amount of money stay where it is. Haha. No seriously, idle? Ok. Solves your problem 100% if you have boost while easing the clutch out softly all the way to tire roast mode.

You said 2400-2700 rpm most of the time. You previously mentioned this build is for the power needed focused on long engine life. I don’t like you right now- this engine should be spinning 4500-4700 rpm. All that flow, super chilled, those rods and piston pin spots with everything all slickery spinning so easy (yes, I made that word up). I have to live without blowing up engines now days- but this would be amazing to see numbers to the max. You are taking away some vicarious fun for me here.
 
I like what he did with thoes cam specs. It's interesting to see the intake lift was lowered like that. But with your heads that makes sense.

I'm going to run stock heads and I was thinking about leaving the lift and duration specs the same and just tightening up the LSA to 107* or maybe 106*. That should help spool time on my 62mm.

As far as cam companies in not familiar with any off hand that can do what you need. I was referred to Oregon Cam grinding years ago but I think all they do are regrinds. I've been meaning to contact them for a while now.


He did say with stock head flow numbers the only change would be move the lift on both valves back to 280 . He was adamant about the lobe centers being 104 as a middle point...
 
You said 2400-2700 rpm most of the time. You previously mentioned this build is for the power needed focused on long engine life. I don’t like you right now- this engine should be spinning 4500-4700 rpm. All that flow, super chilled, those rods and piston pin spots with everything all slickery spinning so easy (yes, I made that word up). I have to live without blowing up engines now days- but this would be amazing to see numbers to the max. You are taking away some vicarious fun for me here.

Well I admit some of the engine work may have been a little over board, but none of it hurt the build... and if I can swing getting @3bals burnt motor I may just do a dyno queen maxed out motor....
 
I'm going to run stock heads and I was thinking about leaving the lift and duration specs the same and just tightening up the LSA to 107* or maybe 106*. That should help spool time on my 62mm.

Lobe centers can't be moved that far with a regrind, several have told me that in the last week....
 
104 means drive ability for idle gets worse and if not building boost bottom end emissions could choke a whale if done with stock heads along with the hp loss. Airflow becomes the key. That is gonna be a very nascar/ circle track sounding lope. Adding this diesels clatter and anytime you goose it at a racetrack every one around is gonna enjoy the power but say to their friend “they are always strongest just before they blow up! And he is about to blow!” Haha

@Rockabillyrat regrind that far idk if there is enough meat and still get the lift, according to Chris’ statement there isn’t. How far would 1.7 rockers get it back I wonder.

Maybe a diy 1.9? Haha

I really don’t understand why it is so hard to get normal billet capable machine shops to do cams and rocker arms. It’s like- here os the original. Scan it in then move a few points on the print. They can do that all day long until you tell them it is for an engine- thwn they are like WHOOOAAAAA! WE DONT DO ENGINES!

whats about that “Titans of CNC”? That guy is a make it happen guy. Top end equipment and not afraid of engine related parts. I know a bunch is over the top for TV, but worth a call.

Along that same line of thinking- the guy on here some time back that did the killer hummer with hotrodded H1- Mountain Machinery. I remember that hummer for obvious reasons but also remember their logo is identical to Mod Mafia and kinda wondered if that is who was doing their machining at one point.
 
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