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Best way to lift my truck?

Dieseldad97

I now know why.
Messages
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Location
Altona, Manitoba Canada
Just wondering what's the best way to lift my truck. I know cranking the bars and blocking the rear would work, but is that the only choice I have for my 3/4 ton truck?

To me, it has always been a bit "cheezy" doing it this way. Something about getting shock extenders and all...

Anyone have something else? I'm not at all interested in a body lift either. I pull a 10k 5th wheel and don't want any type of body lift. Man I'm fussy eh?

Thanks guys.
 
A suspension lift is the best way to go IMO. They are pricey for IFS trucks though. A 4-6 inch lift kit can be had on ebay for around $1000, but they are no name lifts.

Don't go the easy route and do turn the torsion bars. I've seen that mess up more trucks than i care to talk about.
 
I installed a 6" "no-name" $1000 kit on a friends truck and it turned out to be a Pro-Comp lift. And you don't want my opinion on what would be the best way to lift your truck, it would start with a cutting torch and a sawzall.
 
I installed a 6" "no-name" $1000 kit on a friends truck and it turned out to be a Pro-Comp lift. And you don't want my opinion on what would be the best way to lift your truck, it would start with a cutting torch and a sawzall.

Dana 60 front axle Swap!!!
 
I added the "green" keys to mine. It gave me maybe 1 1/2 - 2 inches. I would like more but $$ prohibits at this point. I would really like to do a Dana 60 Swap someday.
 
The best and safest way to lift an IFS truck (keeping the IFS suspension) is to go with a lift kit ( I have a Super lift on a 92 Burb at 6 inches with a 4 inch body lift too)

The Dana 60 solid front axle is a great way to go but is $$$$$ and a lot of work to do it right.

The IFS kits are easy to install with hand tools and a weekends worth of your time.

Cranking the bars is NO good. The suspension geometry gets all whacked up and they ride rough too.

I have not used a "No Name" kit but the ones like Super lift and other advertised names all seem to be fine.


Here is my 92 Burb with the Super lift, a 4 inch body lift and 37" swampers

Best

MGW
 

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A jack and two jack stands!!!
Just kidding...any of the "name brand kits" are good choices as they are designed for the extreme loads both lateral and compression of a truck under motion. I wouldn't take a chance with sront suspension parts because if they break it doesn't matter where you sit in the truck when they fail you are a passenger with no input as to where the truck goes!!!
 
Here is my 89 gasser.. 3inch Superlift(if I remember right) with 35s... Had to cut the bottom corner of the bumper and cut some off of the bottom front fender corners.. would probably fit 33's without any cutting Id guess..
l_8a90c51e89b0850fea90973dccb57479.jpg
 
I cant even read the post! It is hard to read when you can't stop staring at the beatifull women in your avatar!
 
Thanks alot for all the imput. To answer your question Chris, a 3-4" lift would be perfect for me. I'm gonna look around the net a bit for one. BTW that's a huge truck Missy!

ps..I like my avatar too.):h
 
Thanks alot for all the imput. To answer your question Chris, a 3-4" lift would be perfect for me. I'm gonna look around the net a bit for one. BTW that's a huge truck Missy!

ps..I like my avatar too.):h

If I remember right one of the best all-around lifts for that series of truck is the Tuff Country, mostly their new "Tuff Country Strong Kit", they changed it and upgraded it quite a bit from what I understand. Also one of the things that some people like about it is how LITTLE it increases the track width of the trucks. For me I like that, I think it was Rancho or Superlift that pushed it out over an inch on either side, and I don't care for that stance. When I was lift shopping for my Tahoe of your style, I was going to go with the Tuff Country.
 
Most lift kits i've seen don't lift evenly. they raise the front more than the back. Any time you put anything in the back the ass is draging like a furd. Personally i wouldn't lift a truck used for heavy towing. Higher center of gravity= more sway. Brake upgrade needed with taller tires also. Then theres the speedometer correction and shift points.Just my $.02 worth.
 
X2 I wouldn't go too high on a lift or a truck used for heavy towing. I've never installed an IFS Chevy lift, but I thought they were way more complicated than Missy makes it sound. IIRC, at least on the early kits there was cutting and welding involved. Maybe they've improved them.
There is nothing wrong with cranking torsion bars, as long as you do it within reason. If you put ten turns on it and have no suspension left, yes it's bad, but 4-6 turns is common for guys with plowtrucks. I put 5 turns on mine, got 1.5 inches at the front, and I've had it that way for years. Never even got it aligned because theres no problem with tire wear.
I just did a 3 inch body lift to get away from my tires, but I know you didn't want to go that route. I'd consider changing the torsion bar keys, it is a whole lot cheaper than a suspension lift, retains good ride and frontend geometry, and nets you almost as much lift as an IFS lift. The re-indexed keys let you crank a little more on the bars without tightening down so much as with the stock keys.
You can do the back with either a block or an add a leaf.

Don't know what you're planning on running for rubber, but big tires suck for towing.
 
If I remember right one of the best all-around lifts for that series of truck is the Tuff Country, mostly their new "Tuff Country Strong Kit", they changed it and upgraded it quite a bit from what I understand. Also one of the things that some people like about it is how LITTLE it increases the track width of the trucks. For me I like that, I think it was Rancho or Superlift that pushed it out over an inch on either side, and I don't care for that stance. When I was lift shopping for my Tahoe of your style, I was going to go with the Tuff Country.

?? how can a lift kit increase track width? The only thing that can do that is different offset wheels and tires.
 
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