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Best overall diesel engine oil winter vs summer

With that micron count.
Two five gallon buckets, a pump and a Frantz kit.
A hole for one of the Frantz 90 elbow in the bottom of one bucket and hook the Frantz kit to that bucket, placed onto a stand.
Pump the oil through the Frantz kit into the other bucket.
Maybe even two or three times pumping the oil through the kit.
Should be good to use for another oil change ?
Could possibly use an electric fuel pump for pushing the oil through the Frantz kit ?
Just thinking, any other thoughts ?

Having it running the entire time the engine is running gets you that effect most of the way. It can not filter as fast as the oil is running through the engine. And it does not get all the bad stuff out, so you are slowly loosing the battle. But it does extend the oil life, so you run it and do oil samples to learn the new oil change interval. Sometimes you do a new filter and keep the old oil. There is so many variables from engine condition, weather conditions, oil type, etc. that you can’t do exactly what someone else does with identical results.

What you are talking about with the buckets would be like my plan with an external centrifuge. The CF with proper flow/pressure will clean the oil to 0.1 micron. But it is way more hassle and way more expensive. Spending thousands of dollars to save hundreds of dollars worth of oil is dumb- you are paying to do it. But my justification on the cost is doing it on multiple vehicles, and using the same centrifuge to produce fuel.
Doing the buckets and the pump with heater, etc. and only getting it down to 2 microns is not going to be worth it at all. Maybe if oil was $30 a gallon then over a decade it could.

When WarWagon mentioned the additives- this is important. This is where lab testing becomes important. How long it can go before this is a concern has tons of variables.
After checking out that tribodyne, it really is the best option out there. But it is expensive.
So I called them up and asked about running it through a centrifuge that could pull down to .1 micron. They said that can not strip any of the additives at that level because they are mirconized (basically ground to smaller than base element is in nature).

this is a crucial thing to think about in centrifuge vs filter. If the filter really is 3 micron ABSOLUTE- then it will remove all the zinc from almost every oil made because zinc is 10micron and the factor is 3- so it will be 3.3333 micron and the filter won’t allow any of it to pass. This is very different from a centrifuge which is never an ABSOLUTE but nominal and simply gets more each pass. But it stays in suspension so it won’t all strip out through a centrifuge. Running 1 gallon of oil through a centrifuge would get it all out in a week of non stop cycling doing 60 gph. But as the stripped oil goes back in the centrifuge it would actually attract some back into suspension.

I honestly think the fs2500 manufacturer really didn’t have an oil engineer on staff, unless it was the guy who the owner stole his girlfriend in highschool. Because 3 micron absolute IF they actually are that fine- is doing harm with the good. If not and they are just advertising it - then anytime a discussion where 1 person points out this flaw- they will loose sells. My honest guess is they are just advertising it as absolute but it really isn’t.

Testing the oil and looking at not just contamination but making sure the additives are good- eliminates the worry of over stripping it. Worse case scenario is you end up with some 1930’s oil where it was just oil. True it isn’t getting the benefits from things like zinc- but when there is no dirt in there and usually there is a ton- the net result is still better than left alone.

How many miles before you consume the additives obviously varies- but in a 6.5 with filtration this elaborate, you could easily get 50,000 miles from high end oil. What if you don’t, what if it is only 12,000 miles? Normally you get 3,000- right? If running fully synthetic-tribodyne or mobile1 or amsoil- $50-$100 per gallon. The Frantz is $300.
2-4 oil changes has paid for itself. But my experience with frantz is usually 5 times as long.

The centrifuge thing is really because I used them and have secondary uses, and a lot on the way cool factor. But if that cost isn’t in someone’s range- The frantz is a no brainer to me. The 2500 filter could be better without doing damage. But at $500 you need to figure how many more miles that $200 is gonna save.

then the replacement filter is $37 vs Frantz @ $11

All just my 2 cents obviously...
 
Having it running the entire time the engine is running gets you that effect most of the way. It can not filter as fast as the oil is running through the engine. And it does not get all the bad stuff out, so you are slowly loosing the battle. But it does extend the oil life, so you run it and do oil samples to learn the new oil change interval. Sometimes you do a new filter and keep the old oil. There is so many variables from engine condition, weather conditions, oil type, etc. that you can’t do exactly what someone else does with identical results.

What you are talking about with the buckets would be like my plan with an external centrifuge. The CF with proper flow/pressure will clean the oil to 0.1 micron. But it is way more hassle and way more expensive. Spending thousands of dollars to save hundreds of dollars worth of oil is dumb- you are paying to do it. But my justification on the cost is doing it on multiple vehicles, and using the same centrifuge to produce fuel.
Doing the buckets and the pump with heater, etc. and only getting it down to 2 microns is not going to be worth it at all. Maybe if oil was $30 a gallon then over a decade it could.

When WarWagon mentioned the additives- this is important. This is where lab testing becomes important. How long it can go before this is a concern has tons of variables.
After checking out that tribodyne, it really is the best option out there. But it is expensive.
So I called them up and asked about running it through a centrifuge that could pull down to .1 micron. They said that can not strip any of the additives at that level because they are mirconized (basically ground to smaller than base element is in nature).

this is a crucial thing to think about in centrifuge vs filter. If the filter really is 3 micron ABSOLUTE- then it will remove all the zinc from almost every oil made because zinc is 10micron and the factor is 3- so it will be 3.3333 micron and the filter won’t allow any of it to pass. This is very different from a centrifuge which is never an ABSOLUTE but nominal and simply gets more each pass. But it stays in suspension so it won’t all strip out through a centrifuge. Running 1 gallon of oil through a centrifuge would get it all out in a week of non stop cycling doing 60 gph. But as the stripped oil goes back in the centrifuge it would actually attract some back into suspension.

I honestly think the fs2500 manufacturer really didn’t have an oil engineer on staff, unless it was the guy who the owner stole his girlfriend in highschool. Because 3 micron absolute IF they actually are that fine- is doing harm with the good. If not and they are just advertising it - then anytime a discussion where 1 person points out this flaw- they will loose sells. My honest guess is they are just advertising it as absolute but it really isn’t.

Testing the oil and looking at not just contamination but making sure the additives are good- eliminates the worry of over stripping it. Worse case scenario is you end up with some 1930’s oil where it was just oil. True it isn’t getting the benefits from things like zinc- but when there is no dirt in there and usually there is a ton- the net result is still better than left alone.

How many miles before you consume the additives obviously varies- but in a 6.5 with filtration this elaborate, you could easily get 50,000 miles from high end oil. What if you don’t, what if it is only 12,000 miles? Normally you get 3,000- right? If running fully synthetic-tribodyne or mobile1 or amsoil- $50-$100 per gallon. The Frantz is $300.
2-4 oil changes has paid for itself. But my experience with frantz is usually 5 times as long.

The centrifuge thing is really because I used them and have secondary uses, and a lot on the way cool factor. But if that cost isn’t in someone’s range- The frantz is a no brainer to me. The 2500 filter could be better without doing damage. But at $500 you need to figure how many more miles that $200 is gonna save.

then the replacement filter is $37 vs Frantz @ $11

All just my 2 cents obviously...
It also depends on how easy the filter is to mount. I never messed with the Franz, so I don't know about them. The FS2500's and the Amsoil bypass kits were pretty complete. Back then if I needed something, I had to drive 50 miles round trip and hope they had what I wanted when I got there.
 
What ever happened to the "miracle" oil filter from amzoil that let you go on the same oil for a gazillion miles...


FWIW, do not recall claims about a miracle filter, but rather the personal discipline to make extension of oil change intervals work.

The keys are filter changes at all the OE intervals *and* supporting data from regular analysis.

Some vehicles I have were run with the same batch of oil well over OE duration, and others trash it significantly short of OE expectations which makes me wonder whether the engineers understood the environment. Even had a current day system which stated to change the oil based on the vehicle's computer computation of oil life and not mileage; good thing I ignored that and went with analysis based changes. But without analysis, I would have blindly stuck with the OE service interval and prayed.

I am sold on bypass filters as Amsoil's dual filter kit saved a brand new engine of mine. Quick recap is that there was a LOT of metal which came out of a NEW engine, to the point where it visibly scored the oil pump's impeller and the crank needed a polish. This was within the first 500 miles. But, nothing notable got past the filters and the cam was fine.

While noting the reported capabilities of the Frantz and FS2500, it still comes down to economics as the actual differences and benefits are probably well in to the splitting hairs territory. At the moment, Amsoil is still the best price point for my applications.
 
Exactly-Each individual should look at the long term cost of what each system has and its benefits. Then make a decision.

Jay, can you post a link to thread when that happened? Metal that scored pump and crank but no where else - how the secondary filter helped is something I want to read because it goes oil pickup tube to oil pump to oil cooler through filter to crank and cam.
Rereading it would help me process. Thanks.
 
Blackstone Laboratories
Frantz
Oil Analyzers inc

There are a lot of them. Doing a bit of research could save some cash. I haven’t priced anyone out in years. Many are certified of aircraft engine testing - those will give decent info but often are more expensive.
 
Just looking online. The only price I could find was with Blackstone, their standard test is $30 and $40 for the standard plus tbn number which is how good the additives are in the oil

At my work Exxon Mobil does all the testing. Not sure what they charge though.
 
I run Amsoil 15w-40 Max Duty oil and SDF24 filter. I do run it more than 2500 miles per change as it is a far superior oil and filter than what was available in the '80s when the engine was developed (they ALL are). Oil usage (loss) is a quart to 5-6k miles running empty. Excellent for this platform. Gale Banks is a pretty smart guy- if it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me.
 
Jay, can you post a link to thread when that happened? Metal that scored pump and crank but no where else - how the secondary filter helped is something I want to read because it goes oil pickup tube to oil pump to oil cooler through filter to crank and cam.
Rereading it would help me process. Thanks.


Do not recall posting details on the event at the time, as it also turned into a bit of a $hit show with a now failed business. Main reason for not posting was that I wanted to have facts on what caused the incident, and sadly none were ever found. In the end, it appears like the incident was a one-off in terms of the metal in this engine (while it was new). I do seem to recall that events were shared in the 'When Good Vendors Go Bad' thread.


To the bypass filtration, I use Amsoil's dual bypass kit. Here is an example: https://www.amsoil.com/p/universal-dual-remote-bypass-system-bmk23/

From what I am seeing, common bypass filter installations are divorced from the primary filter. As I understand the divorced setup, it is possible for some oil to escape filtration.

Amsoil asserts that when using their dual filter kit, *all* oil passes through a filter.

Based on observations from mechanics when I had the metal incident with a new engine, Amsoil's assertion about the dual filter kit appears true. We had to pull the sump within 500 miles and discovered a LOT of metal (some easily suspended, and chunks pulled via magnet) and at the time we also found that one of the oil pump's impellers had a visible score along one of the veins. Engine went back to the supplier whom reported that during tear-down they needed to polish the crank, but no damage to the cam. Given the sum of observations, damage was limited to the bottom end of the engine and no metal made its way to the top.
 
Do not recall posting details on the event at the time, as it also turned into a bit of a $hit show with a now failed business. Main reason for not posting was that I wanted to have facts on what caused the incident, and sadly none were ever found. In the end, it appears like the incident was a one-off in terms of the metal in this engine (while it was new). I do seem to recall that events were shared in the 'When Good Vendors Go Bad' thread.


To the bypass filtration, I use Amsoil's dual bypass kit. Here is an example: https://www.amsoil.com/p/universal-dual-remote-bypass-system-bmk23/

From what I am seeing, common bypass filter installations are divorced from the primary filter. As I understand the divorced setup, it is possible for some oil to escape filtration.

Amsoil asserts that when using their dual filter kit, *all* oil passes through a filter.

Based on observations from mechanics when I had the metal incident with a new engine, Amsoil's assertion about the dual filter kit appears true. We had to pull the sump within 500 miles and discovered a LOT of metal (some easily suspended, and chunks pulled via magnet) and at the time we also found that one of the oil pump's impellers had a visible score along one of the veins. Engine went back to the supplier whom reported that during tear-down they needed to polish the crank, but no damage to the cam. Given the sum of observations, damage was limited to the bottom end of the engine and no metal made its way to the top.
I am confused about how this is possible unless it has to do with the adapter.

From what I have seen of the single filter housings for the Amsoil and the FS2500, everything that goes to the bypass filter has to go through it.

I have always used the original oil filters where they are mounted from the factory.

The only places I have tied in to supply the bypass filters are the return line from the engine oil cooler and the plug in the block near the OEM filter.

I return to the engine oil fill neck with a nipple welded in at a slight downhill angle. Otherwise oil will splash out if you take the cap off with the engine running. - not sure why I found it necessary to find that out. I think I just wanted to look at the oil returning from the bypass
 
I have often wondered where the best place was to connect a bypass filter and not harm or lower the oil flowing to areas of the engine.

like using the return on the oil cooler line to supply into the filter or using the pressure port at the OPS. if the bypass filter becomes blocked due to plugged filter would it harm the engine if connected inline on the oil cooler lines? or if a portion of the flow from the cooler is diverted into the filter and to say the oil fill tube or turbo return area giving the oil cooler return less flow than going into the cooler?
 
I have often wondered where the best place was to connect a bypass filter and not harm or lower the oil flowing to areas of the engine.

like using the return on the oil cooler line to supply into the filter or using the pressure port at the OPS. if the bypass filter becomes blocked due to plugged filter would it harm the engine if connected inline on the oil cooler lines? or if a portion of the flow from the cooler is diverted into the filter and to say the oil fill tube or turbo return area giving the oil cooler return less flow than going into the cooler?
If the bypass filter is restricted nothing happens. I install a T in the return line to supply the bypass filters.

The bypass filters are supposed to have enough restrictions in the head to prevent oil starvation.

I would also like to know the optimum. Spot to tap for supply. Or if there is a better place to return than the engine oil fill neck.
 
Use a 90° bulkhead fitting for the return into the oil fill tube. Attach the return line to the male end outside the fill tube. The other end of the fitting will be pointing straight down inside the tube. Use a nylon washer between the fitting and the inside wall of the tube to ensure a leak-tight seal.
 
Use a 90° bulkhead fitting for the return into the oil fill tube. Attach the return line to the male end outside the fill tube. The other end of the fitting will be pointing straight down inside the tube. Use a nylon washer between the fitting and the inside wall of the tube to ensure a leak-tight seal.
And I imagine as far downwards on the tube as possible too.
 
I like the idea of installing the return line into tje oil filler pipe and pointed downwards. That would totally flood the timing components with lube and might possibly extend the life of the chain and sprockets.

No. The only "wear" I have seen in the 6.2 6.5 timing sets was a "Truth Is Stranger Than Fiction" where the crank sprocket and key hammered and wore each other to where there wasn't 25% of the key thickness left.

The chains stretch from the IP shock load. The chains will be "sloppy" form a tight fit new in 30,000 miles.

The oil coming out of the main and cam bearing, by the chain, is significant enough they had a oil spray shield in 6.2's that had the CDR on the oil fill tube.
 
On Real Americas Voice News channel on ROKU.
Just seen an advertisement from Advance Auto Parts.
It said, Right oil, right Filter Right Price, every day.
Now there is no A A P stores here in this town.
Would someone please, call them, tell them You seen this advertisement and tell them You want to know if they have Rotella T-6 in 5-40 weight.
Just curious if they actually have this in stock or if they are fulla 💩. 😹😹😹😹
 
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