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Best overall diesel engine oil winter vs summer

Just read up on that study on oil pumpability for the 6.2. one thing that caught my attention is the location they recomended to have the oil gauge or in our case the sending unit. mine is located at the rear left of the engine valley. I am wondering where the port is if there is one on the right front. I would like to install a manual gauge at some point in time and not have to tee off from the oil pressure sensor.
 
The port on the passenger front is the end of the oil circuit- where the turbo line goes. GM said thats where where we had to verify oil pressure before condemning an oil pump or anything internal engine as too low oil pressure. Which is 8psi at idle, 160°f, 40wt.

Pick an oil and stick with it doing the oil samples determine oil life based on the lab findings.

Best option is going to be best oil you can afford, and to make it last use either centrifuge or frantz bypass filter. There is a chart to say what level the centrifuge will filter at based on incoming oil pressure.
I will run mine like done for making alternative fuel- off a 120v motor to get pressure up to 95-100psi. It has been too many years but iirc it is 100psi that gets it to 1/10th of 1 micron! That is smaller than soot- it will literally clean oil to cleaner than you buy it new. The dust contamination from pouring it in the bottle at the factory cant stay that clean. So I will have a couple hoses in the oil pan to do that with, maybe feeding through the oil cooler... not sure yet best point. So with the centrifuge doing 60gph, just come home end of day and connect the two hoses with hydraulic quick couplers, and turn it on. Let it run all night then in the morning turn off, connect the two hoses back and all the oil is clean as brand new again. No telling how long that will extend the oil, but I can’t imagine it won’t be huge difference.

A great investment for cold starts is prelube/ oil accumulator. Hit a switch and you have oil pressure before you crank the engine. Some guys use a 12v scavenger pump, a couple T fittings with a one way valve on the oil cooler line and just kick it on.
 
@Will L. I just found this on youtube that Leroy posted years ago. I like how it's designed, but this would require a person to install a right side valve cover on the left side. would you know of other options out there where the valve cover swap wouldn't be needed?

 
to use it like that, it just dumps back into the valve cover and runs while you drive it. You could get it and diy a drain back to the engine however you want- Leroy just had a good set up for using it that way.

But understand the oil pressure going in directly effects how fast it spins. And getting maximum capability of the centrifuge you need 95psi range. Running of regular oil pressure, you would have to find out to what size micron it can separate to.

Here is a video showing one being used but for cleaning wvo to use as fuel- so going into a 55 gallon drum. I will use mine like this. Except imagine having 2 hoses into the oil pan. One at the drain port, the other above the oil line. One will have male on one end, the other female of self closing hydraulic disconnects. When truck is in use, the two hoses connected together, when cleaning oil they connect to longer hoses coming off the centrifuge. So it just cleans the oil in the pan. Let it run an hour or two is really plenty to clean it all since the pump will push 55 gallons per hour through the cf-
Obviously Mine would mount to a small box draining back to the oil pan, not a drum.

Then a guy could put the same set up of 2 hoses on all his other cars and equipment to do them all like that also. Now oil lasts longer, keeps better oil on the bearings all the time. And thats a big win where you can justify the best oil from the third party testers- that tribodyne Chris is a reseller for.

To make the centrifuge actually pay for itself- use it for making your own fuel.
 
dbrannon79 said:
@Will L. I just found this on youtube that Leroy posted years ago. I like how it's designed, but this would require a person to install a right side valve cover on the left side. would you know of other options out there where the valve cover swap wouldn't be needed?

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I did that a several years ago, it works well. There is a fair bit of sludge in the centrifuge
 
Where can these be purchased nowadays? I looked on Leroy's site and didn't see one, also found his thread on it and the site he linked where they came from no longer has them. I'm not sure I would be able to mount one on the truck but would like to get one along with a pump to do like @Will L. was saying. set it up to use on any vehicle and run it every so often kinda like a maintenance item
 
Will L. said:
@NVW
When you do the high rpm centrifuge, a few passes through it can remove well over half the color. I just wondered if the bypass amount ever caught up with the pollution rate for you.

Yeah- just putting the container in the bed of the truck and it might turn black! Haha.
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All I know Will is I get a lot of sludge in the centrifuge, so it does help.

This truck gets about an hr. of run time each day, 30 mph max feeding cows. The centrifuge would likely work a lot better on a long run.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Where can these be purchased nowadays? I looked on Leroy's site and didn't see one, also found his thread on it and the site he linked where they came from no longer has them. I'm not sure I would be able to mount one on the truck but would like to get one along with a pump to do like @Will L. was saying. set it up to use on any vehicle and run it every so often kinda like a maintenance item
Click to expand...
I think I bought mine on ebay, but check with Leroy first.
 
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