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BD Quick Spool Valve Install with Pics

Personally with your set-up, I would drop back to about 6-8 for it to open. Anything over 8 should have you well past any delay zone and in the turbos boost zone.
 
Sounds like you just need to get it dialed in some more. At least the dyno run was free this time, all the more reason to go at it again after some fine tuning.
 
6.5L said:
Well i hit the dyno and learned a few things. I can post up a pic of the sheet later but power was 250rwhp at 3500rpm and peak torque was 420ft lbs at 2700rpm. So where peak torque was made was brought down about 300rpm but I did lose 25rwhp and 10ft lbs. I think I can explain the hp loss from the valve not opening until 15psi and choking the motor. I am going to try to bring that down to open around 10psi instead of 15. Also am gonna need water injection I think. On my final run the motor started to heat soak and I lost all my power. It was struggling the last 700rpm or so, so we shut it down to avoid problems. It runs fine now. Weird is my power went down on the dyno but on the street it is faster and more powerful down low than before. Who knows. But he did give me the dyno run for free so that was cool. I guess I will just have to take it easy on it.
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BD Spool Valve $700 :Flush:
Dyno Run $Free!
Missing 25rwhp
Missing 10ft lbs

The look on our faces seeing you spend $700 to loose power: PRICELESS!

Time to hit the track and see if it is quicker in the 1/4 as dyno numbers are part of the story. :hihi: Seriously it is a shocked look - just messing with you.
 
Ok help me out, heat soak from repeated runs or just from latent heat, because of the exhaust back pressure?

Also 6.5 it will be interesting to see if the RWHP comes up with the valve opening sooner. Might mean that exhaust back pressure plays a much larger part in our engines that boost does. Maybe just taking a WAG. Thanks for all your innovation.
 
6.5L said:
I think I can explain the hp loss from the valve not opening until 15psi and choking the motor. I am going to try to bring that down to open around 10psi instead of 15. Also am gonna need water injection I think.
Click to expand...

I didn't see what spring you had and how you had BD set it up. Isn't 15 psi a lot of boost for the ATT? I would think you would want the valve open at anything over 7 psi? and definately fully open after 10psi . Then it shouldnt help increase max boost if its fully open unless it causes turbulence and more flow to other vane opening. Its really only to help when low drive flow to help spool the large turbine right. If its choking the engine and causing higher max boost its defeating the value of larger exhaust flow turbine. Maybe if its a much over sized turbo and more like in the link slim posted the valve does more VGT action but I was thinking its just suppose to be an offset device.

Ideally it would have some cam over mechanism or mechanism to be closed and fully open over a short psi difference and check valve with slow bleed off mechanism so it doesn't shut quickly and cause engine braking ????

Wonder if an rpm dependant override would make a good controlling mechanism addition??? I don't see a need to have the valve shut at anything over 2,200 rpm???
 
Well with gear shifts I guess you do want it to shut pretty quick but not slam shut maybe. I think a rpm override for a close sized turbo might be still a good addition.
 
I see BD offers an adjustment valve how does that work? Is there any check valve or orifice with plumbing or just plenum pressure vs spring/can.

I wonder if different spots of the intake could be tapped into for use with pilot valves with vaccum on turbo inlet or other ???
 
I think you are right the window between closed and open should be a small window. I would have to see how the pressure canister is adjustable. Boost pressure opens it. by acting against the spring pressure?
 
If the spring is the thing (sorry), they make different tensions and whatevers, so that should be relatively easy. Maybe a setup like racedays waste gate threaded rod thing (drawing a TOTAL blank on the name - sorry) that way you could tighten or loosen for the desired psi number.
 
When I talked to BD they said you could adjust it down to 10psi through a pressure regulator they sell. I still have to call and find out how it works. In time
 
6.5L said:
When I talked to BD they said you could adjust it down to 10psi through a pressure regulator they sell. I still have to call and find out how it works. In time
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For a 6.5 with the ATT, I would drop down to 6-8 if it was me.
 
yeah. Im gonna try to get it set lower but if it aint in the cards then oh well. I still consider the valve a step in the right direction. I dont regret it. I did a mileage test today. Remained unchanged from before. 19mpg. That includes 5 hard dyno runs and some wide open throttle in the passing lane. Not bad.
 
6.5L said:
yeah. Im gonna try to get it set lower but if it aint in the cards then oh well. I still consider the valve a step in the right direction. I dont regret it. I did a mileage test today. Remained unchanged from before. 19mpg. That includes 5 hard dyno runs and some wide open throttle in the passing lane. Not bad.
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ABSOLUTELY not bad. NICE dam work.
 
Makes me wonder how one can build a Boost pressure regulator that senses from 0-6 \ 0-8 and so on, and close the boost valve from zero to a preset value, and opening it along with rising boost pressure.
But not working as a engine brake before you activate the brake pedal.

Just my brain thinking :)
 
If one had a 94+ with the stock vacuum control, this would be EASY to do to control the valve. Essentially you could just hook up the stock vaccum actuator and run a stock boost table and let it run it as it would open it at roughly 10 pounds and hold it open until about 7 pounds where it would begin to close it again. I can see LOTS of potential here with this valve for those wanting to experiment.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If one had a 94+ with the stock vacuum control, this would be EASY to do to control the valve. Essentially you could just hook up the stock vaccum actuator and run a stock boost table and let it run it as it would open it at roughly 10 pounds and hold it open until about 7 pounds where it would begin to close it again. I can see LOTS of potential here with this valve for those wanting to experiment.
Click to expand...

Because I don't have the stock vac pump and actuator I have been missing the obvious way to do this on the 1995. Thx.

Been trying to think of a way to use the pressure actuator and stock valve – may need a pressure rated solenoid vs. the stock one. May be cheaper to put a vac pump back on. (And keep the AC belt from flopping so much…)
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If one had a 94+ with the stock vacuum control, this would be EASY to do to control the valve. Essentially you could just hook up the stock vaccum actuator and run a stock boost table and let it run it as it would open it at roughly 10 pounds and hold it open until about 7 pounds where it would begin to close it again. I can see LOTS of potential here with this valve for those wanting to experiment.
Click to expand...


;)
 
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