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BD Quick Spool Valve Install with Pics

Big T said:
I'd spend the money for a drop in kit of the BD quality, not for something that requires new AC lines, new radiator, etc. The mods to make something like this work as a drop in for the 6.5 seem minor. I realize that anyone developing this has up front capital costs they must recover against uncertain demand from a dwindling and notoriously cheap population of 6.5 owners. The ATT has been a god send to the 6.5. A QSV for the ATT could take this to the next level. I just don't want to lose my AC or have to buy a '93 radiatior to do it.
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Well then let me see what can be done, I believe the vacuum waste-gate set up could be made to control it without to much work. Getting something that could live at the heat is the next hurdle.
 
Isn't it as simple as repurposing the wastegate controll to diverter valve duty with tune tweaks? Or am I missing something. Are there drawbacks to using one of these, such as stressing the engine?
 
hookedup50 said:
Isn't it as simple as repurposing the wastegate controll to diverter valve duty with tune tweaks? Or am I missing something. Are there drawbacks to using one of these, such as stressing the engine?
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I imagine that if the butterfly valve failed to open on the second volute, the exhaust heat backing up into the engine would be something fierce. You'd catch that with the pyrometer, then the coolant temp.
 
There is actually A LOT to figure out about how to control it. The tuning part is unknown it is hard to say how changing the waste gate settings will affect the other parts of the tune. Then the arc of the arm and the rod angle for travel and the duty cycle. Full off at a certain rpm or boost pressure. Best that it is tested out thoroughly first.
 
Slim Shady said:
There is actually A LOT to figure out about how to control it. The tuning part is unknown it is hard to say how changing the waste gate settings will affect the other parts of the tune. Then the arc of the arm and the rod angle for travel and the duty cycle. Full off at a certain rpm or boost pressure. Best that it is tested out thoroughly first.
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That's why I'm patiently waiting, but with keen interest.
 
I did'nt think it was gonna be that simple or the unit would option out that way. One can hope though, which usually ends up with stepping in dog crap. I'm gonna wait also.
 
I wonder what 6.5L is getting for boost numbers at cruise?

My initial impression is the vac controlled system may not be necessary as my boost falls off to 0 at cruise RPM. But this engine of mine is weird like that and doesn't appear to have the same boost as other ATT engines at cruise. Also seeing it keep more heat in the engine from higher ECT at idle.

A Wastegate is for keeping turbo's too small for the engine from blowing up from excessive RPM and heat generation. It also limits the amount of work and heat a turbo generates.

The spool valve winds a big turbo up at lower engine RPM. It is like a VGT.

A stuck closed valve would run your boost past the normal high number. That would be your quickest indication.
 
The interest in the vacuum operated actuator is to solve fitment issues created by the huge boost operated valve on the BD unit. The vacuum operated actuator can be smaller, remotely located and custom tuned via the ECM. Sorta takes it to another custom level for the 6.5.

So is the spool valve backing more heat into the engine? Is the valve not opening soon enough? At what Boost Pressure is it fully open? Is it still restrictive when fully open?

My ATT will produce 2 to 2.5 psi boost at 70 mph. Stomping on it today at 6,750' it got up to 13, almost 14 psi but I had to back off due to speed limit and traffic.
 
Ok guys, Here are some pics of the one that Ferm had mentioned. I have talked to this guy by email and he can make them in a 5/8 inch thick version and he priced it to me for 380.00 with everything to make it work. I have been trying to figure out how to make it stay open at low boost highway cruising speed, and the best way I have come up with on my Suburban with onboard air pressure and an HX40 is to have a dash mounted switch control a seperate valve applying air pressure to the actuator therefore holding it open. I decided to hold off because of not being able to achieve this automaticaly. I think that driving around town it would be a hassle to remember to turn the switch on and off or getting on the highway and forgetting to turn it on and cruise down the highway with the valve closed with high drive pressures. Also if the system ever lost air pressure (had a air leak) the valve would be closed until the system was repaired. Also dialing it in to work in conjunction with the W/G actuator may be a bit of a challenge but the previously mentioned items is what has caused me to hold off. But I would like to here everyones input on this. Thanks



 
Didn't think of it being closed at low boost unloaded highway speed. That's a real issue and further pushes towards developing a vacuum operated QSV. I know Slim is working on it and I'll place my trust in him.
 
A basic diverter/QSV with a stock GM8 vacuum actuator controlled via the stock wastegate system would seem ideal to me. You could easily tune it to open at cruise, but close at idle to aid in spool up. It would also allow for better control and could also figure in for altitude.
 
Unfortunately my 94 Suburban is no longer computer controlled, it has been converted to DB2 IP technology with more full than I could get from my DS4.
 
Big T said:
Didn't think of it being closed at low boost unloaded highway speed. That's a real issue and further pushes towards developing a vacuum operated QSV. I know Slim is working on it and I'll place my trust in him.
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Its a good point. I would also want it open while cruising to max my MPGs. Seems like it would be a choke point?
 
Burning oil said:
Its a good point. I would also want it open while cruising to max my MPGs. Seems like it would be a choke point?
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From what I've read and seen, the ricer crowd developed the QSV valve to improve their quarter mile times. They're interested in spooling fast for a short duration and don't care about cruising speed. They're either fully on the go pedal, or they're off it. Us oil burners have the added requirement of cruising at highway speed for long distances.
 
I think if you could control it with the ECM and make it open at maybe 60 MPH would be OK, but then that would need to change when towing you would need it to open sooner. I think maybe it could run off of drive pressure like a blow off valve, what do you think?
 
I like the idea, but would expect fitment issues. Basically it would be a low boost bypass of the QSV but you need room to fit it between the QSV and the manifold and between the QSV and the turbo. It would create a stack so high, the turbo would not fit under the hood.

I do like the size of their boost actuator.
 
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