battery relocation

[buddy]

Anyone relocate their batteries or a battery to the bed? I was considering a 0 AWG wire from the driver side battery to a battery in my toolbox. Leaving one in the engine bay.

Also, anyone see any issues adding a third battery? I considered putting the third battery on an isolator also in the tool box, but dont know that it is necessary

To reconnect the starter I was just going to put a single post on passenger side and run a 0 AWG wire over to it from the drivers side battery and then connect the current starter wire to that post. Anyone else able to run 0 gauge wire and connect it up to the starter? Mine doesn look like there is much room to play with and keep things from shorting out. And do you have to remove tranny fluid lines to pull starter off?

My goal is to make more space for an airbox behind the lights on passenger side, and hopefully make the truck more reliable with a third battery, so I can run the stereo with the truck off at outside events and drive in theaters and such. I also didnt want to strain current setup with the 2 audio amplifiers I am going to install.

At the same time I will be putting in a larger alternator and upgrading the wire from it to the battery.

Thanks for any suggestions...

 

[GM Guy]

I would think about using semi truck stud post batteries (two) in the toolbox and run heavy wire everywhere.

 

[Rhinopkc]

Someone had both batteries on the driver side, can't remember who. That seems like a good way to go, then you only have to put one in the toolbox, so you'll have more room for crap.

 

[buddy]

I suppose if I axed the washer fluid and smashed the fender well down another could fit there. Worth thinking about. Just using two larger batteries in the toolbox is a good idea, but then it would take up a lot of space.

I was eyeing some big yellow top Optimas shipped for about $200 each.

Anyone ever heard of Powerstar or used one? Looks like generic Odyssey.

 

[DieselCash]

I think this is a cool idea! :thumbsup:

I have been thinking about moving both of my batteries too under the bed. If I can and if their is room I would do one on each side of the outside frame between the cab and wheel well. I figured if the semi trucks could do this why can't we. Of course I am just thinking out load as of right now on this. Since I have not even started looking at my truck yet.

We will see!

 

[Matt Bachand]

With 2 larger batteris in the bed, your 1500 would probably be squatting

J/K I like the idea... I think 3 is way unecessary, especially in your climate,... Drive-In wouldn't drain both your optimas, not even sure about your outdoor events... Hell if you ahve to start it up for 30 minutes 4 hours deep, so what, just crank the volume a little more, and talk diesel with all the gear heads that come walking to your exhaust rumble like crack to a junkie.

 

[Rhinopkc]

I suppose if I axed the washer fluid and smashed the fender well down another could fit there. Worth thinking about. Just using two larger batteries in the toolbox is a good idea, but then it would take up a lot of space.

I was eyeing some big yellow top Optimas shipped for about $200 each.

The windshield washer reservoir is under the DS battery, so that shouldn't be in the way, I think the second battery goes on it's side on top of the fender well. Optimas, or some other AGM would be a must, of course.

 

[buddy]

In my 94 things are located a little different than in 96+ trucks. washer fluid being one of them, AC and alternator are reversed, etc....

Putting them on the outside of the frame rail, now thats an idea, would require a little more fabrication, but definately doable, will start looking at that tomorrow.

With the two amplifiers and 15" subwoofer Im installing the batts might drain a little faster, at least the ones I have now. the 120 or 150 minute reserve yellow tops, two of them, perhaps Id be OK for starting up between double feature shows. That or just leave the amps off and go off just the four 4x6s connected to the head unit. I already installed infintiy 2.7-ohm 4x6s and they sound great connected to an aftermarket radio pumping out a little more juice than the stock. I have a 2 channel amp to run a set of 2-ohm 6.5" infinity Kappa speakers I installed in the doors, and then another 2 channel to bridge the 4-ohm 15" Fosgate sub into. Building that box and still being able to sit in the back is going to be fun.

Of course, you can buy 3 decent regular batteries for the price of one of these really nice big batteries. But I couldnt put a regular battery in the tool box anyway, need sealed ones there.

 

[Matt Bachand]

In my 94 things are located a little different than in 96+ trucks. washer fluid being one of them, AC and alternator are reversed, etc....

Putting them on the outside of the frame rail, now thats an idea, would require a little more fabrication, but definately doable, will start looking at that tomorrow.

With the two amplifiers and 15" subwoofer Im installing the batts might drain a little faster, at least the ones I have now. the 120 or 150 minute reserve yellow tops, two of them, perhaps Id be OK for starting up between double feature shows. That or just leave the amps off and go off just the four 4x6s connected to the head unit. I already installed infintiy 2.7-ohm 4x6s and they sound great connected to an aftermarket radio pumping out a little more juice than the stock. I have a 2 channel amp to run a set of 2-ohm 6.5" infinity Kappa speakers I installed in the doors, and then another 2 channel to bridge the 4-ohm 15" Fosgate sub into. Building that box and still being able to sit in the back is going to be fun.

Of course, you can buy 3 decent regular batteries for the price of one of these really nice big batteries. But I couldnt put a regular battery in the tool box anyway, need sealed ones there.

LOL, A 15 in a cab?!?! I think you'd get more than enough thump out of a 10, or 2 10's even may be easier than a 15, perhaps fit behind the ext seats?
The cab will end up being the box, and should outbass whoever is in the truck easily, not to mention provide a back message for whoever is sitting int he back.

I must have missed your WMI installation results and road test, I see it in your sig. HOw's it all working?


Looked at your album, truck looks nice Buddy. Could use a little help in the rear springs area I think.

 

[buddy]

Simply put, I've always wanted a 15" sub. Its not a high power one, just a stage 1punch, and I dont need it to boom passengers heads off, just accuractely play the real low that I like, in a tuned ported box I build. And yeah probably a good massage for the front passenger, as it will be facing forward at thier chair.

The camera died that I took all my pics with for the WMI and propane and FTB, and I cant find the charger, and it wont charge with the USB cable so wont let me download pics from it.

This is somewhat relevant to battery relocation because I want more space in the bay to install projects. The propane regulator is where the air filter box used to be, easiest routing of heater hose lines to it and inputs to the intake. I have the SSD intake stuck between the battery and the regulator, pretty cluttered. I want to remove battery and mount, then put a second 90 degree elbow with larger air filter down to the space where the battery mount is, and later box it in.

The WMI worked well until the Hobbs switches failed. There is a warning not to install them on an engine intake. Going to have to run a hose to a more climate friendly place in the engine bay, which will also reduce vibration effects. So then I just wired it to a switch and that worked well. Under load I could see the IATs drop 30-40 degrees, and that was just with 300cc/min nozzle at 150psi. When I had the 300 and the secondary 200cc/min nozzle going it would reduce IATs around 60 degrees. The propane seemed to provide more power, although ultimately not that useful for me, I guess I had enough already. Although when that pressure switch kicked in the truck would take off on its own real smooth and quick to like 90mph from 70MPH without changing pedal position. I need to revamp the whole pressure switch system and solenoid activation due to the switch failures so I havent been saying much until its done.

The 8.5 gallon propane and 5 gallon water tanks are in the tool box, so is the 200psi adjustable water pump. Its a big box, plenty more room for a couple batteries. The WMI filter, solenoids and relays are all on drivers side firewall and fender well.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Get a cheap camera on ebay or buy a charger on ebay or something... you're going to wish you had these pictures.

Plus I want to see.

 

[chevyCowboy]

iv got a single 10in cramed behind the seat of my single cab cant recall what it or the amp are but i can make more base than any sane person can stand. the best part about it is that i got it all free i got it from a friend of my brother who i was going to buy it from he told us to put it in and see how we liked it and then pay him or try a diff combo he had lots of stuff. well we put it in and never heard from him again

 

[Chicago TDP]

Someone had both batteries on the driver side, can't remember who. That seems like a good way to go, then you only have to put one in the toolbox, so you'll have more room for crap.

I have both batteries on the driver's side. I will get some pics and post them.

I also have made a custom air box that only draws air from the fender and from behind the head lights.

 

[Acesneights1]

I didn't have to remove any tranny lines to do the starter on my 2000. Thump is nice. I prefer Stillwater Designs myself.

 

[Brooklyn Tow]

Harmon Kardon

 

[buddy]

Yeah, I have to dig up my old camera, and find the charger for it too, since its for sure dead. I promised the Walbro guy pictures before he would send me the tighter springs.

Its not the amount of bass, not loudness I am using a 15 for, but for accurate reproduction of the music, a specific tone that the 6.5" woofers or even a 10" can't do.

This weekend I'll see if I can make a battery mount on the outside of the frame rail.

I wonder if grounding the engine to the chassis will cause any issues compared to directly to the battery.

 

[Matt Bachand]

I didn't have to remove any tranny lines to do the starter on my 2000. Thump is nice. I prefer Stillwater Designs myself.

The lines may need to be moved a little to R&R, judging on the rustness of them will determine weather or not removal or replacement is necessary.

Make life easy and take wheel and wheel liner off.