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Ball Joints

DieselCash

DieselCash

Trust but, verify
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Location
Salado, Texas
How long should ball joints last?

The mechanic at good year stated you are lucky if the cheap ones last two years.

My Brother stated they should last 100,000 miles.

Mine are almost exactly two(2) years old. With less than 15,000 miles on them.

I got them from O'Reilly's Auto Parts. I got the cheap ones, around $20.00 each. I called the O'Reilly's and they stated the warranty was only for manufacturers defects. They have the limited lifetime warranty. The person I talked to on the phone could not tell me if they would warranty them our not.

My plan is in the morning, yank them all out. Go up there and get new parts for free, under warranty. Our, piss the entire store off.

This is crazy! I expected them to last longer than this.

I also found out my steering shaft and steering box is bad. They both are over $150.:mad2:
 
The steering box can be adjusted(I did a write up in the DIY section). As for ball joints, it all depends on how you drive it. I have 218K on my factory originals in my BURB, and have seen others go even longer. Then again I have seen some fail in no time. Buying cheap ones normally ends badly, pay the extra and put in MOOG's.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
The steering box can be adjusted(I did a write up in the DIY section). As for ball joints, it all depends on how you drive it. I have 218K on my factory originals in my BURB, and have seen others go even longer. Then again I have seen some fail in no time. Buying cheap ones normally ends badly, pay the extra and put in MOOG's.
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If I can not get them for free from the warranty I will go moog's.

I drive normal and take it easy. I hardly ever go off road. Would all the weight from the camper mess them up?
 
I got the truck in the drive way. The truck is on jack stands. Both front tires are off. I will get up early in the morning and yank the upper ball joints off first. Then, I will take them up to the auto parts store.
 
Another vote for spending the $. I replaced the factory ones at 225k with Moog UCA ass'ys and lower ball joints from Rockauto. They're supposed to be even better than OEM so I should be due again at 500k :eek:
 
I have 225K on my 06's and it has been fully cranked for 50K and sees alot of offroad time.

My 95 has receipts for ball joints around 140-150K and I did them again at 246K and moog warrantied them at 288K (alot of hard miles).

The 93 has originals at 240K. Our 01 8.1L new moog uppers and 1 lower at 180K and again at 276K but the oem lower is the one I did.

I had a stock height 95 K1500 with stock tire sizes. It got new uppers every 50K after 150K and had lowers at 150k and 250K. I bought that truck with 80K and drove to over 300K.
 
btfarm said:
Another vote for spending the $. I replaced the factory ones at 225k with Moog UCA ass'ys and lower ball joints from Rockauto. They're supposed to be even better than OEM so I should be due again at 500k :eek:
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If they replace these for free I will stick with what I got. Money is beyond tight right now.

If they do not, I will replace with the better ones.
 
Rockauto. Moog lower ball joints are $18 for stamped lower control arm, $30 for forged LCAs. Moog Upper ball joints are $28. You're so called cheapies aren't much less. The labor cost dwarfs the parts cost. Might as well do it right and do it once. Moog > Rock Auto.
 
3500GMC said:
Oh I hate rework.. I'd make em credit you for the junkers towards the Moog parts. Stop the insanity.
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Thank you! :thumbsup:

Your idea worked! I got the moog's uppers. I will go back and get the lowers once I get the uppers in.

O'Reilly's Auto Parts definitely stands behind what they sale. :agreed:

Back to work! :hello:
 
tanman_2006 said:
Good to hear! Now keep dem receipts!
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That is one thing I never get rid of, for my truck anyways.

I only have one more lower to re-install. For how I install my ball joints I can only do one lower at a time. The upper ball joints I did at the same time.
Here is how I do it.
IMG_1040.jpg
Have any questions, ask. :thumbsup:

Going to take my better half to lunch. Hope everybody is having a great day! :agreed:
 
That's pretty slick using the jackstand under the LCA to hold the spring in place then pushing the upper away with the port-a-power.
 
saratoga said:
That's pretty slick using the jackstand under the LCA to hold the spring in place then pushing the upper away with the port-a-power.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I have been trying to figure out the name of that thing all day. :thumbsup:

I aint strong enough to do it by hand. The old Army saying, work smarter not harder.
 
Don't forget the alignment and smart getting the Moog stuff, white box specials are junk and should NOT be allowed to be sold for trucks.
 
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