SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
When moving a trailer around that is equipped with electric brakes, does the connector always need to be hooked up in order to keep the brakes from self-adjusting incorrectly when doing so?
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Backing up a trailer with electric brakes
- Thread starter SnowDrift
- Start date
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Electric trailer brakes dont work that way.
Plug them and and drive. Brakes apply when you hit the pedal through the brake controller
Plug them and and drive. Brakes apply when you hit the pedal through the brake controller
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Well, that's exactly what I always thought, but I am pretty sure I was told to have the brakes plugged in all the time when moving the trailer in a recent conversation.
J_dude
Well-Known Member
Marty is right, they only work when your on the brake pedal. I’ve shunted many a trailer around with forklifts at work without issue, for that matter I’ve towed several with my truck without hooking up the connector 
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
I have one trailer that I normally put into the building with an ATV due to the location. I have another that normally gets "staged" before use. For those reasons, it's just the ball that gets locked down, but not the electric.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I did once run into a problem with trailer brakes.
I did not know that there was a difference between RV adapter plugs.
I had the wrong 7 flat terminal, round plug adapter and when my stepson borrowed my camper I handed him the adapter that i never use. He hooked the trailer through that adapter, all lights functioned as they should.
He calls me from His house and tells Me that it seemed like the brakes was on when He was driving and the trailer brake drums got hot.
We messed with that for a while and I could not get it figured out so switched around two wires on the 6 round to get Him going.
Later He returned the camper, I took the 7 to 6 adapter and was looking it over. Inscribed on the adapter was the answer. Some trailers are set up with the battery + post and the brake post of the 7 female plug end reversed. Thats what that adapter was for.
I took the adapter apart, switched those two wires around then took the adapter to the grinder and removed that inscription to switch the wires around for the application that I always run.
I did not know that there was a difference between RV adapter plugs.
I had the wrong 7 flat terminal, round plug adapter and when my stepson borrowed my camper I handed him the adapter that i never use. He hooked the trailer through that adapter, all lights functioned as they should.
He calls me from His house and tells Me that it seemed like the brakes was on when He was driving and the trailer brake drums got hot.
We messed with that for a while and I could not get it figured out so switched around two wires on the 6 round to get Him going.
Later He returned the camper, I took the 7 to 6 adapter and was looking it over. Inscribed on the adapter was the answer. Some trailers are set up with the battery + post and the brake post of the 7 female plug end reversed. Thats what that adapter was for.
I took the adapter apart, switched those two wires around then took the adapter to the grinder and removed that inscription to switch the wires around for the application that I always run.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Is there a way to tell the amount of life left in the magnet controller with electric brakes in terms of when to replace? I have 7000 lb. axles on our stock trailer if it makes a difference. They're 12" drums. I'm hoping to change just the shoes since they came apart, but if I need other parts, then I may get a kit.
It seems pretty stupid that the whole assembly is not much more than shoes - the shoes come one side at a time.
It seems pretty stupid that the whole assembly is not much more than shoes - the shoes come one side at a time.
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
If the magnet works it's good....
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
No way to know the life left in them that I know of....
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Electro magnets work until a wire gets broke or the windings around the iron core burns out.
No real sense in replacing them until one fails.
No real sense in replacing them until one fails.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yup. And as for the brake shoes- search around your area. In egas there is a place called P&O brakes that has been around for more decades than I can remember-
Bring them in shoes, pads, clutch disk, etc and they apply new brake material on them.
Think how it is made in factory- all the metal parts get cut, bent, welded together. Then the friction material gets added. Depending on the performance you want, you pay more for better obviously. They make the material and attach it.
Check if there is a place near you that does it.
Otherwise call trailer places and check prices. A-1 Trailer, Big Tex, Century- try all the big places that make trailers in volume in your part of the world.
Bring them in shoes, pads, clutch disk, etc and they apply new brake material on them.
Think how it is made in factory- all the metal parts get cut, bent, welded together. Then the friction material gets added. Depending on the performance you want, you pay more for better obviously. They make the material and attach it.
Check if there is a place near you that does it.
Otherwise call trailer places and check prices. A-1 Trailer, Big Tex, Century- try all the big places that make trailers in volume in your part of the world.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Since they wear against the back of the drum, I figured there is a minimum spec. where they could wear down to. Apparently not?
I did find a set of new shoes for $40 spindle. Salty, but I suppose it's not high volume like a car or truck. Old shoes on the 2011 Eby just fell apart. Nowhere near end of life, but simply fell off the shoes.
I did find a set of new shoes for $40 spindle. Salty, but I suppose it's not high volume like a car or truck. Old shoes on the 2011 Eby just fell apart. Nowhere near end of life, but simply fell off the shoes.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
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Assuming it was the originals that pretty well delaminated, I'm wondering if I should be spending the money on OEM parts or just go with knock-offs if they're just going to fall apart from sitting around.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Today, I ended up buying kits locally. They were $75 each and came with the whole shoe, magnet, back plate setup.
Now, the three screws on each side covering the wiring will be the next challenge. I was assured they were made in the USA, although the Redline boxes didn't boast it anywhere.
Now, the three screws on each side covering the wiring will be the next challenge. I was assured they were made in the USA, although the Redline boxes didn't boast it anywhere.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
I sometimes get early warning of a magnet failing as the controller will start indicating a short, and have found that magnet replacement needs to happen very soon. If the controller gets to the point of showing an overload, it usually stops trying to use the trailer's brakes and now I have dead weight on the hitch. And it seems there is no real science to magnet life as the RV trailer ate them regularly where the flatbed goes 10+ years on a set. From experience on the first RV, I now convert to EoH on the travel trailers.
For the comment about attaching the electric cable while backing, this might come from advice for surge brakes. The trailers with surge brakes should have a switch which activates from the reverse lights and disables the brakes. Without this signal, the brakes will activate from the vehicle's rearward push.
For the comment about attaching the electric cable while backing, this might come from advice for surge brakes. The trailers with surge brakes should have a switch which activates from the reverse lights and disables the brakes. Without this signal, the brakes will activate from the vehicle's rearward push.
SnowDrift
Ultra Conservative. ULTRA!
Made in china stamped right on the parts I was assured were made in the USA. Unfortunately, dad already had the adjusters apart and had greased up two of them before I got there. Otherwise, they would have gone back and I'd have purchased the genuine Dexter parts. Lesson learned. I should have opened the packages in the store - In God we trust. For others - trust, but verify. My fault for not digging in further when my gut told me what I was being told was not the case. I know of no company that doesn't boast of "Made in USA" when it is so.
jrsavoie
Recruit
I've seen quite a few companies that don't proudly state made in the USA on the ads, pictures or boxes. It amazes me.
If I don't see it, I often keep looking.
They're losing business, at least here in the USA.