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Axle Wrap Stopping Ladder Bars

The demonstration I showed Paul takes two. I put the truck in gear and power brake it to simulate the truck powering forward. This will show you how far your rear differential pivots when power is applied. Then I put the tuck in reverse and power braked again to show the pumpkin moving in the opposite direction. Pauls truck did not show as much movement with his semi-stock tires and gears. My truck with the 4.56's and 37'' tires was bad :eek: My truck also used to shudder when powering into it from a stop as the pumpkin moved around behind me, and it was even worse in reverse if I was backing up a trailer. The rear end would pop and chirp the tires when backing up because the pumpkin was moving so bad. Now all of that is gone.

As far as the kit goes. We use all grade 8 bolts and 1/4'' steel for the mountings plates, I used 1 1/8'' tube steel for Paul's bars and i believe 1/8'' plate for the bowtie. My bars are all 1'' and im looking to make another pair similar to Paul's. All said and done The kit will be $300 + shipping. Your choice of the 3 bar setup like what is on my truck or the plate like Paul's.

Time frame. Once I get the PM ill start. Expect a turn around time of two weeks, That gives me time to order bushings, cut, weld, and assemble for shipment.

This is called torque shudder and when we looked under my 1993 we watched the drive shaft jump up and down 2" or more in the center bearing no less while doing a brake stand. The trans shop guy was NUTS for being under the truck while doing this. We cured it with a poly bearing, but, this limits the top speed with 4.10's to ~75 MPH due to drive shaft vibrations. 5 bills later the drive shaft is rebuilt, straightened, new u joints and still vibrates very bad over 75 MPH. Trailer tires are limited to 65 anyway and only in Utah do you need 80 MPH that I know of...

But I can hammer the throttle from a dead stop with a 28' cargo trailer and don't have any shudder while fogging mosquitoes. (Since that cure I now have a smaller IP that doesn't fog anymore...)
 
I would add something to the frame attachment to allow for flex. Like already said the fixed point at the frame limits the leafs from moving freely.
This is OffRoad Designs setup I have a picture of,
 

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Any news?

After re-installing the bars I failed to tighten one of the 3" long 3/4" bolts that holds at the front and fortunately, only lost the nut. I certainly hope it isn't lodged in somebody' windshield or grill on I-80. The 3" bolt isn't quite long enough for my liking as they don't extend through the nylon locking nuts...tightened or not. I replaced both sides with 4" long units so I have a good visual clue should I pull them again.
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While inspecting things thoroughly to insure the other mounting points were secure I did discover a busted rear leaf spring shackle mount.
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I thought at first the bars had exposed a weakness but on closer inspection the shackle mount had been broken for some time and the inner side was oblong to the point of almost twice the normal diameter. Ordered new units for both sides but only replaced the one so far. Had to use a cutting wheel and then air chisel the rivet heads off followed by drilling out the rivet remains in the frame followed by air chisel in punch mode to push them out. 4hrs to get them out, 20 minutes to get it all back together.
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So, with the fix in and from observations of driving, they continue to perform very well. Truck feels crisper in handling straight line, turns, curves and I think I trimmed about a second off zero to sixty (I start the count from hitting the throttle, not from first indication of forward movement) having lost the delay from the truck squatting down.

Still, I've had to take the truck off line to get the front end sorted out as an old problem seems to have not actually been cured...long story, wrong thread.
 
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