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ATT installation, trials, tribulation, success

G

guybb3

Member
Messages
710
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16
Location
Tewksbury Mass.
I installed the A-Team turbo I've had for 6 months this morning. A few things were kinda scary, seeing as how I need the truck to get to work tomorrow if it's raining, but all is well now.

The down pipe (on my exhaust) was cocked at a crappy angle and we noticed from the soot that it apparently had been leaking for a while. We put a big pipe down into it with the turbo off and easily bent it to fit the new turbo. I think the wonderful turbo heat sheild is rattling because we hear a tapping at idle that we didn't have before.

We thought it was the turbo itself but the thing kept spinning long after the truck was off (no friction there).

We didn't take the inner fender off but I think it would have been a lot easier install if we had. The turbo drain and crankcase vent were a pain and I'm not done with the vent yet ( I want to modify it).

I did find that I need a size smaller hose clamp on the turbo side of the new intake hose as mine goes all the way to the stop and is still a little loose.

My one bitch; I don't have any turbo whistle anymore (minor complaint). the truck is noticeably louder so I don't think I would run an ATT without the muffler.

I also need a new fitting to plumb my bypass filter in as the new turbo has a different fitting. I almost forgot to add. I called Dennis in a panic with something I had lost (the directions) and he answered his phone and stayed with me on the phone until I was all set. All in all, very happy so far.
 
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Did you swap out the glow plugs on that side?
Glad the install went smooth, I didn't remove the inner fender either, not sure if it would have helped though.
 
When are you going to let me and Matt check it out first hand ? I would like to feel the difference myself. I have two 6.5s with possibly another on the way(forgot the 6.5 condom...:) )
 
Dennis, I had same clamp issue.

Running a standard radiator clamp right now. Got a replacement OEM type clamp from NAPA but haven't gotten around to replacing the radiator hose clamp yet.
 
Guys, I will make a note that the factory clamp may not have enough travel to fully clamp on the turbo side. I didn't have that problem with my 95 spring tension clamps. I guess I didn't get everything. A stock radiator hose clamp should be sufficient to hold the hose on without any problem. Take care not to cut the silicone hose though by tightening it up to tight.

The full tension clamps are better, but they cost about 2 to 3 bucks apiece.
 
packratt said:
Dennis, I had same clamp issue.

Running a standard radiator clamp right now. Got a replacement OEM type clamp from NAPA but haven't gotten around to replacing the radiator hose clamp yet.
Click to expand...


Was the NAPA clamp smaller in diameter or does the factory hose not go small enough for the 2.5 inch diameter hose?
 
guybb3 said:
The down pipe (on my exhaust) was cocked at a crappy angle and we noticed from the soot that it apparently had been leaking for a while. We put a big pipe down into it with the turbo off and easily bent it to fit the new turbo. Who's down pipe do you have ??

I think the wonderful turbo heat sheild is rattling because we hear a tapping at idle that we didn't have before. Turbo heat shield you talking about one on engine ??? or did you reinstall the one off the GM turbo, if that take it off it's not necessary

We thought it was the turbo itself but the thing kept spinning long after the truck was off (no friction there).

We didn't take the inner fender off but I think it would have been a lot easier install if we had. Only way to do this job is with fender off IMO, plus it allows you to do much needed maintenance glows-gnds-and starter connections/bracket, maybe 10 minutes to remove, saves tons of aggrivation laterThe turbo drain (with inner fender removed you can access old turbo drain fitting bolts when removing, stuff tube with rag, use dremel & hacksaw blade on handle to cut tube, or a tubing cutter, rag keeps shavings from dropping into the drain tube/oil pan, you'll also need to drill the drain tube flange to accomodate the larger dia. cap screw than OEM turbo has) and crankcase vent were a pain and I'm not done with the vent yet what CCV issues you having ?? ( I want to modify it).

I did find that I need a size smaller hose clamp on the turbo side of the new intake hose as mine goes all the way to the stop and is still a little loose. Same issue my burb install, I cut out a strip from the old turbo/intake coupler wrapped around the new coupler hose, and clamped it & new turbo coupler hose

My one bitch; I don't have any turbo whistle anymore (minor complaint). the truck is noticeably louder so I don't think I would run an ATT without the muffler. Yours come with a turbo muffler ???, remove it and install 1-5/8" freeze plug, (see part point for p/n)

I also need a new fitting to plumb my bypass filter in as the new turbo has a different fitting.Take a look at returning into the oil filler tube like in a Heath FS2500 kit, I know bearing on the ATT likes all oil it can get, so your bypass supply/return need to go to same places as Heath's kit doesI almost forgot to add. I called Dennis in a panic with something I had lost (the directions) and he answered his phone and stayed with me on the phone until I was all set. All in all, very happy so far.
Click to expand...

Dennis I added some observations
 
Slim Shady said:
Was the NAPA clamp smaller in diameter or does the factory hose not go small enough for the 2.5 inch diameter hose?
Click to expand...

The replacement silicone hose is thinner walled than the OEM hose. The stock clamp bottomed out about 1/8-1/4" too soon.

I haven't installed the NAPA clamp yet and have to figure out the safe place I put it. I'll try to dig it up tomorrow.
 
x2, I didn't have that on my truck ATT install, as I was originally IC'd on that one, and when I deleted the IC, my tube on that one is now 1 Heath coupler, 1 Turbonetics "hump" coupler, and 2" steel exhaust pipe, so factory clamps worked there, on this burb install the turbo end with OEM clamp was too loose needed that extra smaller clamping range, and the one on intake side was almost out of range. I took some pics, but my camera card reader isn't here to plug into my puter.
 
packratt said:
The replacement silicone hose is thinner walled than the OEM hose. The stock clamp bottomed out about 1/8-1/4" too soon.

I haven't installed the NAPA clamp yet and have to figure out the safe place I put it. I'll try to dig it up tomorrow.
Click to expand...


I am glad I am not the only one that puts things in a safe place and can not find it again. I know it was a safe place because I can't even find it:eek:
 
Joey D said:
Sounds like we need a little 6.5 drag race action.
Click to expand...

I have 3.42 gears. You guys will kill me. I'll bring my Gixxer.....er Diesel bike instead. I forgot to add; my old turbo had 202,000 miles on it and next to no shaft play at all. I think it makes a good case for synthetic oil and good filtering.
 
Originally Posted by guybb3
The down pipe (on my exhaust) was cocked at a crappy angle and we noticed from the soot that it apparently had been leaking for a while. We put a big pipe down into it with the turbo off and easily bent it to fit the new turbo.
Question...Who's down pipe do you have ??
ans.. Hucksdorf (sp?)

I think the wonderful turbo heat sheild is rattling because we hear a tapping at idle that we didn't have before.
Question...Turbo heat shield you talking about one on engine ??? or did you reinstall the one off the GM turbo, if that take it off it's not necessary
ans..The one of the engine

We thought it was the turbo itself but the thing kept spinning long after the truck was off (no friction there).

We didn't take the inner fender off but I think it would have been a lot easier install if we had. Only way to do this job is with fender off IMO, plus it allows you to do much needed maintenance glows-gnds-and starter connections/bracket, maybe 10 minutes to remove, saves tons of aggrivation laterThe turbo drain (with inner fender removed you can access old turbo drain fitting bolts when removing, stuff tube with rag, use dremel & hacksaw blade on handle to cut tube, or a tubing cutter, rag keeps shavings from dropping into the drain tube/oil pan, you'll also need to drill the drain tube flange to accomodate the larger dia. cap screw than OEM turbo has) and crankcase vent were a pain and I'm not done with the vent yet.
Question...What CCV issues you having ?? ( I want to modify it).
ans.. I agree that we should have taken off the fender. More room to work. The CCV just doesn't line up that well. Not a biggie. I'm just going to cut and put some rubber hose in there so the angle will be better.

I did find that I need a size smaller hose clamp on the turbo side of the new intake hose as mine goes all the way to the stop and is still a little loose. Same issue my burb install, I cut out a strip from the old turbo/intake coupler wrapped around the new coupler hose, and clamped it & new turbo coupler hose
ans..Sounds like what we did.

My one bitch; I don't have any turbo whistle anymore (minor complaint). the truck is noticeably louder so I don't think I would run an ATT without the muffler.
Question...Yours come with a turbo muffler ???, remove it and install 1-5/8" freeze plug, (see part point for p/n)
ans..No turbo muffler.

I also need a new fitting to plumb my bypass filter in as the new turbo has a different fitting.Take a look at returning into the oil filler tube like in a Heath FS2500 kit, I know bearing on the ATT likes all oil it can get, so your bypass supply/return need to go to same places as Heath's kit doesI almost forgot to add. I called Dennis in a panic with something I had lost (the directions) and he answered his phone and stayed with me on the phone until I was all set. All in all, very happy so far.
ans.. I do return into the oil fill tube right now. I did that because the OPS is such a bitch to reach and when you do the math on the oil bypass supply, iirc it was only 4% of the turbo oil supply diverted.

TurbineDoc...feel free to edit to make this easier to read if you like. I would mess it up.
 
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New Data

I did the mileage check on the last tank that had the ATT the whole time. I'm up 10% from the GM turbo but before the vacuum pump delete (I even did a little light towing on the ATT tank). I used to get exactly 16 mpg now I'm getting a tad over 17.6 average.

I towed a bigass pontoon boat to Maine the last week (not real heavy but it's like trying to pull a drag chute) and I have to say it ran a tad cooler than last year too. Not a huge difference but maybe 5-7 degrees.

I definitely had a touch more power as well. Now when the truck downshifts it does more than just rev higher, it actually has a bit more power.

Now for some bad news, I messed up the seal on the CDR tube and rubber hose and got a little gritty oil in the rubber intake elbow under the little elbow. I took the CDR tube apart and RTV'd everything and used hose clamps like I should have done in the first place on every joint. What a retard. A little common sense would have worked there.

I almost forgot to add, my crossover pipe is a rotted mess. I just found out how bad on the morning we were leaving for Maine (patched it up until the shop puts my stainless one on). I recommend everybody get under there with a bright flashlight and see what yours looks like. I wouldn't have known my boost was suffering as I don't have gauges yet.

I'm still very happy with the ATT and would recommend it to anyone.
 
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Well, I completed mine today and drove it. Firstly, I am very pleased with how it sounds. I was real worried about the turbo whistle, I loved listening to my gm-whatever it is turbo whistle, with the new 4 inch Diamondeye it was loud. And several people convinced me it would go away, but it didn't this ATT whistles nicely. A little different tone to the whistle, but it's there all the time, from just a hair off idle up to pretty good rpms.
I can't wait to hook it up to the camper and really try it out, but today I just drove it empty. Tomorrow I will be pulling my landscape trailer but that's not really enough to even work it.
I will say this, it does seem a little slower down low. I can't take off nearly as hard, although I was trying to go easy on it today, didn't hit WOT at all. But it felt slower, didn't build much rpms or boost before shifting. The faster you go, the faster it feels, but it is a totally different truck. Really, only down from a standing stop does it seem more doggy. I was surprised to see a max of 5 psi boost on a little hill I ran up, held about 60 mph in OD, normally she would have downshifted, revved up and gone up the hill at much higher rpms going much slower. Wonder what it would take to get the boost up a little more, a heavy load maybe? Or am I stuck at 5 psi?
It does feel like it's ready to take on the heavy camper. Can't wait to try it, I feel certain it's going to crest the big pull hills at a higher speed.
Lastly, I noticed a lot more black smoke when I get on it a little hard. I used to get a good puff when I'd lay into it hard from a stop, which went away as soon as the truck got moving, but it's much more now. Even a half throttle rolling start from 10 mph produced a huge cloud, and a 50 mph hill, when I leaned on it a little it blew a lot of smoke for quite a ways.
So I felt like I was needing more fuel, but if I can make that much black smoke I don't think it's starving for fuel.
 
Howdy Dan, welcome to the ATT club :thumbsup:

Most of the time, my gauge shows a 5 PSI boost, but I have reached 12 PSI one day when pushing hard and smoking a DiD Toyota Hilux ):h

TD or Slim will probabely tell us why boost readings are not the same than with a GM-x, and why they do not mean the same.

And yes, I did remark she shifts quicker, and hold on OD before having to downshift. I believe it's may be the engine gives more torque at same rpm's and the PCM consider that.
 
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