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ATT Exhaust Side Leak

Big T

Big T

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Have a small leak by one of the bolts holding the elbow to the exhaust side of the ATT. Went to tighten it and it cracked, but hasn't completely sheared off. Sounds like I will have to drill and extract this bolt when I do the injectors and valve cover oil leak this fall.
 
Welding a washer to a bolt/stud that has sheared off close is an excellent idea.
One thing though that I am curious about, if a nut or washer/nut is welded to a broke off fastener, will that harden the fastener to the point that a drill bit might not penetrate it ?
 
As long as you let it cool slowly. Pouring water on it to cool it quickly makes it hard and brittle again. So let it air cool. Also, welding a broken bolt quickly heats the metal causing expansion differences between bolt and surrounding metal. So try loosening while warm and if it doesn’t let go, wait until it is all the way cold. heat expansion causes micro fractures in rust helping free it if that is another issue.

Remember vibration is the greatest cause to loosen stuck fasteners. Hence the Junker test. So i used to have a small(to fit tight places) air hammer just hammer on surrounding metal to add the vibration on difficult scenarios. Doing huge heavy equipment, it is common to have one mechanic running the impact gun while a second is hitting the area with a big air hammer- even seen full 90# jack hammer a couple times.
 
Will L. said:
As long as you let it cool slowly. Pouring water on it to cool it quickly makes it hard and brittle again. So let it air cool. Also, welding a broken bolt quickly heats the metal causing expansion differences between bolt and surrounding metal. So try loosening while warm and if it doesn’t let go, wait until it is all the way cold. heat expansion causes micro fractures in rust helping free it if that is another issue.

Remember vibration is the greatest cause to loosen stuck fasteners. Hence the Junker test. So i used to have a small(to fit tight places) air hammer just hammer on surrounding metal to add the vibration on difficult scenarios. Doing huge heavy equipment, it is common to have one mechanic running the impact gun while a second is hitting the area with a big air hammer- even seen full 90# jack hammer a couple times.
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Yup, or while that huge ol impact is a pounding out trying to turn a bolt or nut, beating on the socket with a big hammer will most times get them froze on devils to spinning.
 
Welding the washer to the stud is easy compared to welding the inside of a nut to the stud. weld around the perimeter of the nut to the washer. leave enough of the nut to put a wrench on it. The extra heat also helps to loosen the stud.

Yes, don't cool the weld, you want it to cool slowly, heat would expand the stud but with no where to expand it should shrink when it cools.
 
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You guys are assuming that I have welding equipment. Not here at Montana home. Could borrow equipment from my son when down in Fullerton.
 
MrMarty51 said:
Quite a long haul but bring it on. 👍👍👍😹
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511 miles = 7+ hours. An easy jaunt by Alaska standards.

Just to be clear, when the bolt head shears off, weld a washer to what’s remaining of the bolt, then weld a nut to that. Remove bolt remnant using nut?

What if there’s not enough bolt protruding to weld to?
 
What ever ya do, dont take pictures and post them here!!!
-The Great Sarcasmo

drilling out, using one of many style extractors, etc. there are options but depending what the access is alters everything.

I know you enjoy swapping back and forth certain parts once each couple years to show some of your friends in Cali, umm just because it’s fun. Dont be afraid to use antiseize when doing such things.
 
Was a time I was willing to swap parts from one vehicle to another to try and get more performance. I dont know if I got tired or if I got lazy, its not so much fun in my old age. 😵‍💫😳😹😹😹👍
 
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