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ARP head bolts/studs

Mudbath

Old Smoky
Messages
394
Reaction score
1
Location
Alberta, Canada
Trying to order ARP headbolts and my automotive supplier list 6.2 but not 6.5. Are they the same? (i am thinking yes).
 
I checked on the Felpro and they do list 6.5 and 6.2 as the same. ARP site only list the 6.2 and the duramax.

So sealant goes on the stud into head and then ARP special lube goes on top of stud, washer and nut, correct? Thread chaser on the block threads, any other tips/cautions? Bob
 
Sounds like you got it. Do the torque sequence according to GM spec but use the torque spec that ARP gives you. Remember, you don't make the studs tight in the block. I use Permatex thread sealant and have had no issues on two jobs so far. ARP gives you the lube with the studs IIRC.
 
I torqued mine to 120 lbs in 5 steps 25 - 50 - 75 - 100 - 120 just because... I don't know if I would try to pull them to 120 with a GM block though.
 
Thanks guys, stocking up on band-aids for inner fender removal:ANGRY_~317:

This reply from ARP regarding head studs...

"Bob,
The kit does come with enough lube to install those studs and also that
kit does fit both the 6.2L and 6.5L.
Regards,
Zac Kimball
Automotive Racing Products
PH: (805) 339-2200 EXT. 206
FAX: (805) 650-0742
Working Together We Win Races"
 
I suggest you wash the studs until they are clean & oil free. Chase the threads in the block and clean. I used GM Pipe Sealant with PTFE to seal the studs into the block - hand tight only. The GM sealer is expensive ($20 tube) but seems to work well. Then use ARP lube on the nuts & washers.
 
I might ad that pmd cable sells the arp studs now at a price as good as Summit racing's.
I used teflon tape and Permatex form-a-gasket #2[brown sticky shit] and have no leaks.
 
I've always been a fan of the Teflon tape & sealant combo. No leaks and you can take it back apart if necessary. I use that method on just about anything that requires sealant as such
 
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