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Anyone Ever Have Both Bolts Shear Off From Keeping The Starter Secured?

WarWagon, what do you mean by the bracket is clearly Not on the engine? I was able to remove the starter today and although the bracket bolt that goes to the block was loose, it was definitely there. I don't remember seeing a heat shield either... Yes I am definitely regretting my choice in a transmission shop...
 
I can see the heat shield in your pic of cross threded bolt it shields heat from above mostly the turbo but the bracket is their did u have any luck removing the broken bolts w/o drilling


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I437P using Tapatalk
 
I take a different approach to left hand bits if ur bolt is IN the hole you are dealing with a 3/8 hole use a 5/16 center punch to make a dent in the bolt the tighter the punch fits hole the better as this will center the dent mark also I have a problem with cheep drill bits if u break a bit off in the bolt the the hardness of the bit wont let u drill through it so I solve the problem with a torch and a very fine tip 00-000 size tip depending on bolt size but I suggest experience when blowing out broken bolts with torch the holes in block are all the way through so if the hole is severely damaged to the point of heli coil or oversize bolts I just put a long 3/8 bolt w nut in outer hole it is a through hole the Inner hole.is not so be careful with it practice on the outter hole the center punch will help u center the hole and not damage any threads also the hole in bracket that hooks to starter is slotted it wont do its job unless its tight and a flange nut or washers installed

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Good thay come easy most times are their any chunks of block missing around holes I gather u are active duty can u get bolts at motor pool or did dealer have them in stock

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No chunks of the block missing thank God! I could get bolts from my motor pool since they work for me.... But we are going through a tough inspection right now and thought the right thing to do would be to grab replacements from Napa. Same grade and all just different color. I'm really pissed at that shop right now! All of this could have been avoided if that particular mechanic could have just found the proper nut for the stud that secures the starter to the bracket.
 
Well I dont want to sound like I would encourage u to steal from motorpool but thay have hi quality parts for 6.5 not cheep after mrk stuff u get at parts stores but napa is a better supplier than AutoZone in my opinion I dont trade their not even a pack of gum

98 gmc 6.5 TD c3500 nv4500 4.11 12' tool bed alcoa 8 lug 235-80R16 G159 14 ply drive tires caped w bandag "gripper" cap 85 gmc war wagon 5/4 6.2 banks turbo full gages w tach added w sirra grande int in mil spec cab nv4500 remote np205 transfer 4.56 w lockers 9"fb 400dmiller victor 315 handel&regulators 2 boxes ontop 2 underbed centerline 16.5 w hankook mt studded 12.50r16.5 10ply 87 petebuilt362 coe C15 6nz 18od trans 3.90 sq100 Rockwell on Chalmers 46 ruber pad 11r24.5 gy 167 dr continental hsr stears64 tulsa hydro drive set up for 303 zacklift or 50ton landoll 98 topkick 3116 cat rto12513 5.67 23.000 rockwell air locker national crane mod c500 16 ton 92"reach w jib w18"fb 11r24.5 goodyear g186 front axel drive conversion 6x6
 
Travelingman. I didn't realize you where in the corps. It is funny Your starter bolts about the same time mine did, but i had no inspection at motorT. Well I am glad to hear the truck is up and running again.
 
Yep, my Motor T is going through a pretty tough FSMAO and then a CGRI right afterwards... Definitely will be getting some starter bolts for spares though. Looks you and I have essentially the same truck being heavy half's and all unless yours is an 8 lugger. Mine has the ATT and a veggie oil system in the bed. Mine is an S though but I've gone and deleted the vacuum system when I did the ATT.
 
Mine is an 8 lug, with 4" dyemond eye and 2.5" crossover pipe, optical bump, banks boost egt and trans gages, and a ready to install but waiting for the right time banks sidewinder te06h turbo
 
Had an '82 which the nut holding the bracket on starter kept coming off no matter what I did, one bolt would break off inside the block, natch, the other would stretch, & then I KNEW again. Get out the jack & jack up the starter to get her started, go home & fix. At home I had a brass sleeve to guide the drill bit so as to not FU the threads, the bit would 'grab' and send the broken stub up against (bottomed out) hole. get the eazie-out. I finally got a backwards drill bit, that helped. I could NEVER keep that bracket connected on both ends for any period of time.
'84 suburban & blazer 6.2's never a problem.
 
cornemuse said:
Had an '82 which the nut holding the bracket on starter kept coming off no matter what I did, one bolt would break off inside the block, natch, the other would stretch, & then I KNEW again. Get out the jack & jack up the starter to get her started, go home & fix. At home I had a brass sleeve to guide the drill bit so as to not FU the threads, the bit would 'grab' and send the broken stub up against (bottomed out) hole. get the eazie-out. I finally got a backwards drill bit, that helped. I could NEVER keep that bracket connected on both ends for any period of time.
'84 suburban & blazer 6.2's never a problem.
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Loctite Is your best friend
 
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