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Anyone convert from pushbutton to floor shift 4x4?

jbsaxman said:
After a month of my 4x4 not working, thinking the thermal actuator when kaput, I discovered that the PO already upgraded the actuator and found that one of the wires on the switch located at the front of the transfer case had broken.

Rather than fix that, I opted to run a switch up into my cab. Now all I do is flip the switch (it's got a light in it, so I know that power is getting through), then move my lever. As soon as I let the clutch out, my 4x4 light on the floor turns on and I'm in 4WD. The nice thing about this is that I now have 2WD Lo. Once I got the kinks worked out (and a switch I actually liked) it's worked like a champ. It's even better now that I don't have to use my father in law's 1/2 ton truck to pull mine out of the driveway.
Click to expand...

That's a good story, JB. I admit I am still leaning towards putting one of those manual cable assemblies in, no electronics, no switches, just a mechanical actuator. Pretty weird for someone with a career in electronics, eh?

-Rob :)
 
I'd like one of those cables, even thought about seeing if I could fab one up. But once I realized that I had the electronic actuator, I figured it was good enough. My understanding is that the electronic actuators are very reliable. I just made it a bit more reliable. It was pretty cheap, too. Under $20 if I recall. Some butt splices, SPST lighted switch, some 14 gauge wire and some shrink wrap. Granted, I had to buy a heat gun, but other than that, money well spent, I think.
 
1995 Gmc Sierra K1500 Z71 CONVERSION HELP

I have a 1995 GMC Sierra SLE Z71 K1500 Extended cab step side pickup. The body on the truck is shot, from headlight to taillight, it's been rolled, burned, rear ended, and rolled again.

I'm buying a parts truck for $150 from a friend, it's a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 2WD. I want to know everything I need to do to put everything on it, in my GMC.

I want to put the Chevy 350 Small block (5.7L) in my GMC, and put the new cab on it with the new bed & fenders + front clip. I need help to find out EVERYTHING I need to do to put the 2wd cab on my frame, as well as putting the 4x4 floor shifter in it. I know I need to cut a hole in the floor pan but how do I do that without messing up & what wiring needs to go where? Should I put all my fuses boxes & everything on the new cab and just bolt it on? Will it work?


-Thank you for any help you can give. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
TurboTahoe said:
That's a good story, JB. I admit I am still leaning towards putting one of those manual cable assemblies in, no electronics, no switches, just a mechanical actuator. Pretty weird for someone with a career in electronics, eh?

-Rob :)
Click to expand...

I have the mechanical actuator NIB. Bought it and never used it after I solved the problems with the electric actuator. It was like $220 new. Make me an offer.
 
I've had the TLA in previous trucks and now the stepper motor in my 98.

All my TLA trucks were mechanical shift Tcases, my 98 is pushbutton.

After I resoldered the f-d up solder joints in the "hencho en mexico" dash switch, I gotta say I prefer the pushbutton system. Didn't think I would like it compared to my levers, but there it is. Much more convienient and easier on my busted up old back.

But, if it ever goes out south, it's pretty expensive to repair....IE: rotary encoder on the tcase is 500 bucks :eek:
 
I liked my old jeep cherokee's all time 4x4.

maybe I should transplant the whole powertrain ( - the engine) incl axles in a GMC 3/4 ton.
 
My '96 GMC Safari van AWD had wicked traction. I still have all the driveline parts. Since it is basically a van body on a 1500 ladder frame, what needs to be taken out to turn my truck into AWD? Is it just the transfer case? Is it possible? I would love that
 
The transfer case is what determines full time 4wd, back in the 70's some GM trucks just had 4lo neutral and 4h
 
NVW said:
The transfer case is what determines full time 4wd, back in the 70's some GM trucks just had 4lo neutral and 4h
Click to expand...

Yup, have one of those out under the awning of the shop. The '76 in my signature, it has the NP-203 with Hi-Lock - Hi - Neutral - Lo - Lo-Lock.
 
Did they modify the front diff to allow more slippage so turning tight and slow doesn't suck? 3 pt turns and stuff... on dry pavement.
 
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