Hi folks, over in the UK and recently acquired a trek 24 6.5 GM. Temp gauge not working, Noticed steam coming up the side when parked for a rest and had a look underneath, there is an overflow pipe coming down from the engine, the steam is coming out of there, coolant level was ok so on I drove, approx another 100 miles and I arrived home, just as I arrived the coolant level low light came on. Pitch black outside so and I am knackered so I parked up and intend to have a look in the morning, it's late over here. With the looks of this forum you guys collectively know about most you are asked so hoping I can wake up in the morning to a better idea of whats going on. Hoping I am going down a thermostat avenue rather than blows and cracks as in total it was on a 300 mile first drive with me, no catastrophic failure. I'm no mechanic but have half a clue, wont be dropping any engine or ripping anything off other than my hair. Not good enough for that but a clue before it gets expensive would be good. Thanks in advance guys.
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Any help would be apreciated
- Thread starter Thor001
- Start date
NVW
Well-Known Member
Could be a thermostat, does the upper rad. hose get hard after startup? If it does it points to a head gasket.
Welcome to the forum.
Welcome to the forum.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Have the coolant tested for traces of exhaust.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Here are my votes:
> X3 (meaning I agree with) NVW and Fellow Traveler about determining whether it is exhaust or steam.
> Get the temperature gauge fixed so you get an idea of what is going on with the operating temperatures. Alternatively, presuming your caravan has computer control and an OBD-I port, if you have access to a scan tool (Example: ScanGuage, etc), you can see what the computer is getting for temperature as there are commonly two independent coolant temperature sending units (one for the dash gauge and one for the computer / ECM) for the computer controlled motor. To help determine whether the motor is computer controlled or not, look at the throttle / accelerator: wires coming out of it means computer, and a cable means mechanical.
Depending on the steam's source, further work is likely necessary but best to find out the source and then work on next steps.
> X3 (meaning I agree with) NVW and Fellow Traveler about determining whether it is exhaust or steam.
> Get the temperature gauge fixed so you get an idea of what is going on with the operating temperatures. Alternatively, presuming your caravan has computer control and an OBD-I port, if you have access to a scan tool (Example: ScanGuage, etc), you can see what the computer is getting for temperature as there are commonly two independent coolant temperature sending units (one for the dash gauge and one for the computer / ECM) for the computer controlled motor. To help determine whether the motor is computer controlled or not, look at the throttle / accelerator: wires coming out of it means computer, and a cable means mechanical.
Depending on the steam's source, further work is likely necessary but best to find out the source and then work on next steps.
Hi again guys, thanks for your advice, all was not so bad in the light of day, the water level was just a smidge low (little bit, sorry if I get too English) really cant work out the evaporation process when very little water had gone but it definitely wasn't fumes, I didn't put my nose right up to the pipe because I am only 3/4 idiot but I put it close enough to prove the 3/4! definitely steam. I have booked it in to have an independent temp gauge fitted in a couple of days time and obviously that will get me 1/4 back when I can see whats going on, and put me back to half idiot where i'm comfy. Thanks again for advice, I will let you know. Have a feeling now I've found you, you'll be hearing from me again, sticky buggers us Brits, just can't shake us off!!
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Hopefully you don't have blown gaskets or cracked engine, a little steam is common with IDI diesels as the water boils around the galleys in the cylinder heads. Hoses are routed differently in the older 6.5 diesels and don't have steam lines that allow the steam to escape to the accumulator tank where it vents in the newer 6.5's.
I suggest reading up on cooling system mods herein there is a wealth of info you can tap into.
You Brits are ok in my book!
I suggest reading up on cooling system mods herein there is a wealth of info you can tap into.
You Brits are ok in my book!
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Maybe. Big factor to consider is his 6.5 is in a HUGE aerodynamic brick (on this side of the pond we call it a Class A RV / Motorcoach), so the standard cooling mods for our GMT400's might not necessarily apply.
The source of steam still has me concerned, is it exhaust or steam?
Unless there is 100% confidence in the coolant and that it is fairly fresh, personally I'd check the coolant itself as it is possible that the 'steam' is in fact steam from coolant that can no longer do its job. Any automotive shop or DIY store should have a tester.
Thank you Fellow Traveler, this forum as you say is a wealth of information, I have a lot to digest, specially as I am new to this.
Jay, your not wrong there, it's a chunk, I reckon if I travel west at full speed for an hour you will feel the winds I'm pushing your way by morning! Looking forward to chasing the sun in the beast. It had just had a full service including a fresh coolant change, I I'll wait and see what the new gauge reads at operating temp and go from there. I will update when that's in. Thanks again all
Jay, your not wrong there, it's a chunk, I reckon if I travel west at full speed for an hour you will feel the winds I'm pushing your way by morning! Looking forward to chasing the sun in the beast. It had just had a full service including a fresh coolant change, I I'll wait and see what the new gauge reads at operating temp and go from there. I will update when that's in. Thanks again all
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
To get input on what 'normal' temperature behaviors for a 6.5 in the caravan, consider reaching out to lrpierce or 3bals as they both have rigs similar to yours.
When the Trek is a happy camper once again, do not chase the sun too far West lest you lose Terra-firma and find that your feet are suddenly wet
When the Trek is a happy camper once again, do not chase the sun too far West lest you lose Terra-firma and find that your feet are suddenly wet
handcannon
Well-Known Member
This right here COULD be the root of your problem. A fresh coolant change will often still have a bubble of air in the system somewhere. I've had this happen to me with my K2500 pickup. After topping up the tank to get the coolant back up to where it should be I had no more problems.
Something else not mentioned by anybody else yet is the water pump. Check the weep hole under the shaft housing just behind the fan clutch. If the pump seal is starting to leak a little bit the coolant will continue to drop, setting off the low coolant light again. If the light comes back on again check that weep hole. A discolored track will usually be seen coming from the weep hole. Don't fool around with this kind of leak. I did once, and ended up with a cracked head on my 71 Toyota FJ40 straight six (think old school motor).
If you do end up having to change the water pump I would recommend a balanced flow pump from a 2000, or newer, 6.5. This would require you to also change the fan clutch as the newer fan clutch will have a thread on clutch mount, and the current clutch mount is most likely a four bolt mount. You can re-use the current fan, but I'd also recommend the larger fan from an early 2000's DuraMax, as they flow a lot more air than the 95 fan. You may need to slightly trim the fan shroud for the DMax fan though.
I wish you the best as you figure out the problem.
Don