Antifreeze question?

[CUCV]

My unscientific opinion is this:
1. A lot of contaminants exist in the system regardless of coolant type. Casting residue, metal flakes, solvents, etc, etc.
2. No antifreeze lasts forever- though the manufacturer acts like it does.
3. Tap water is full of crap. I only use distilled.
4. Bypass coolant filter is cheap insurance.
I use dex-cool b/c it doesn't mix with green stuff and I figured I never get all the coolant out of anything I ever tried to so I figured some would mix and turn to sludge. I put the filter in, and filled it with junk in a week. On my second filter and the coolant looks pretty darn clean. I'm sold on coolant filtration. The mount cost me like $35, the filters are like $9 or $10.
As far as what type of coolant- whatever floats your boat. I never had a dex-cool problem personally, but I heard plenty of stories. My guess is the stuff was contaminated with something from the factory and sludged up.
The parts guy from Detroit dealer I go to uses whatever Detroit uses and tests it and uses the 'charged' filters in his Dodge Cummins. I'm not ready to go that route, as I never read of 6.5 cavitation problems. Plenty of other block problems, but cavitation didn't seem to be one of them!!

 

[guybb3]

CUCV, where did you get the coolant filter?

 

[ak diesel driver]

x2 and pics

 

[CUCV]

Okee dokee. I have to find my camera 1st, but I'll give you the details.

1. Filter Mount. Many people use the kit from NAPA. Never had success with NAPA. Avoid them. Their kit comes complete with fittings and clamps. It's like $50 I used a BALDWIN model CFB5000. Made in China (DAMN IT) but actually was good quality (DAMN IT) It cost me $37.41 from the truck supply place near my house and they had it in stock. It can also be found online for less and can be had for $38.25 from Grainger. I chose this mount because it uses 11/16-16 thread on the filter and I found this was the most cost-effective filter available without coolant additives.
2. The filters that fit this mount are: Fram PR3383, AC Delco WF-108, WIX 24070, Baldwin B5134, Fleetguard WF-2077, CAT 9Y4528, Detroit Diesel 23524403, LuberFiner LFW4685. Cheapest I found was actually at the Detroit Diesel Dealer- like $8.50. But with that list you can pretty much find a replacement anywhere.
3. I used valve adapters for the mount. There are 2 in and 2 out to choose from. I found NOS adapters in my buddies garage. They are 3/8 pipe to 3/4 Hose. 90 degree. Perfect. Good luck trying to find one. Spent a while on the net without success. The place I used to buy HVAC parts for the fire company doesn't seem to be in business anymore. There are plenty of valves and fittings you could put together.
4. I mounted the filter mount on the driver side below the battery tray. There are rectangular slots that 1/4-20 carriage bolts fit perfectly after you remove the battery and tray.
I plumbed it in with standard 3/4 heater house covered with 1" I.D. wire loom.

Before I get the "this post is useless without pics" tag, I'll try to find my camera & take pics tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

[NVW]

Any AG. equipment dealer would have them, I have one on my JD tractor.

 

[chevyCowboy]

Okee dokee. I have to find my camera 1st, but I'll give you the details.

1. Filter Mount. Many people use the kit from NAPA. Never had success with NAPA. Avoid them. Their kit comes complete with fittings and clamps. It's like $50 I used a BALDWIN model CFB5000. Made in China (DAMN IT) but actually was good quality (DAMN IT) It cost me $37.41 from the truck supply place near my house and they had it in stock. It can also be found online for less and can be had for $38.25 from Grainger. I chose this mount because it uses 11/16-16 thread on the filter and I found this was the most cost-effective filter available without coolant additives.
2. The filters that fit this mount are: Fram PR3383, AC Delco WF-108, WIX 24070, Baldwin B5134, Fleetguard WF-2077, CAT 9Y4528, Detroit Diesel 23524403, LuberFiner LFW4685. Cheapest I found was actually at the Detroit Diesel Dealer- like $8.50. But with that list you can pretty much find a replacement anywhere.
3. I used valve adapters for the mount. There are 2 in and 2 out to choose from. I found NOS adapters in my buddies garage. They are 3/8 pipe to 3/4 Hose. 90 degree. Perfect. Good luck trying to find one. Spent a while on the net without success. The place I used to buy HVAC parts for the fire company doesn't seem to be in business anymore. There are plenty of valves and fittings you could put together.
4. I mounted the filter mount on the driver side below the battery tray. There are rectangular slots that 1/4-20 carriage bolts fit perfectly after you remove the battery and tray.
I plumbed it in with standard 3/4 heater house covered with 1" I.D. wire loom.

Before I get the "this post is useless without pics" tag, I'll try to find my camera & take pics tomorrow.

Thanks!

hey mods once the pics are added to this info can we take it and put it in the 6.5TRL
maybe some one could do a install step by step
heck i might even do it

i recently took a class on hydrolics and we coverd coolants and such and i have been putting some thought to this very subject

 

[CUCV]

UPDATE!
My camera sucks, BUT I found a similar valve that should work nicely.

Available from Ryder Fleet Products

Your Price: $14.16
Order may qualify for FREE Shipping- Details
Our Part Number: MEI 2429
Valve Shut-Off Manual 3/4" X 3/8"
Manufacturer Number: Airsource 2429
Availability: Stocking Item - Usually ships same day
Package Quantity: 1
Cross Reference: 4SE 84789, 875 3082931, CCB 931107, MUR 277973, Q79 914518

Description:
3/4" to 3/8" NPT Male

 

[chevyCowboy]

UPDATE!
My camera sucks, BUT I found a similar valve that should work nicely.

Available from Ryder Fleet Products

Your Price: $14.16
Order may qualify for FREE Shipping- Details
Our Part Number: MEI 2429
Valve Shut-Off Manual 3/4" X 3/8"
Manufacturer Number: Airsource 2429
Availability: Stocking Item - Usually ships same day
Package Quantity: 1
Cross Reference: 4SE 84789, 875 3082931, CCB 931107, MUR 277973, Q79 914518

Description:
3/4" to 3/8" NPT Male

so the filter would then thread onto that fitting?

 

[Pruittx2]

No,, I think that valve + 1 more, would hook to the filter adaptor,,,,

 

[CUCV]

Pruittx2- You are correct. The mount has 4 possible orifices. I Used valves with hose fittings to minimize adapters and also so that when you change filters you don't lose a ton of coolant. Adding another valve in-line to the bypass can also be used to force all heater core coolant to go through filtration system but doing this prevents adequate flow to rear heater. Definitely not a winter time mode to operate in.
The flash on my camera is broken, but looking to borrow one tonight and see of I can get some pics up.

 

[dangerousdave]

This is very interesting. I'm rooting for the camera.
I'd love to see pics of the hoses, how they hook into the system, the fitting, etc.

Please? Thanx in advance.

Dave

 

[Matt Bachand]

This is very interesting. I'm rooting for the camera.
I'd love to see pics of the hoses, how they hook into the system, the fitting, etc.

Please? Thanx in advance.

Dave

:thumbsup: Lol.. GO CAMERA GO!!!

 

[CUCV]

Borrowed a camera, but it got dark before I could snap good pictures. I do have a pair I'll post to hold you over until I get back from work tomorrow.

 

[CUCV]

More pics.

 

[chevyCowboy]

can we get a little run down of the plumbing?

 

[ak diesel driver]

does that take water from the supply side of the heater or the return? Or does it matter?

 

[chevyCowboy]

just realized y yours looks so much different then mine thats on a burban and they have rear heat!!! im thinking you just tap into the return line from heater and then back into the return line corrrect?

 

[CUCV]

Yeah, it's a sub with rear heat. Complicates the plumbing and still bothers me that I haven't figured out how to "clean it up" yet!!!

Plumbing as follows:

Water pump heater outlet to TEE connector. 1 leg to filter, second to heater core(s) a sub will have another TEE to split front and rear heat.

Filter out to return line. Add TEE to return that goes to radiator.

When I removed the 1st filter and did an autopsy on it, the pleated paper was full of junk, so I presume I had the coolant moving in the right direction.

SO, in total, 2 TEE conectors (DORMAN 47118 or equivalent), 8- coolant clamps, 2- 3/4" hose to 3/8 NPT adapters (you may have to build these depending on what you want to do) and 2 packs of 3/4" heater hose. (forget the length), CFB5000 mount, 2- 1/4-20 x1" carriage bolts, 2 washers, 2 lock washers and 2 nuts (or lock nuts, etc).

That about does it.

 

[ak diesel driver]

so I take it this is not a by pass but a full flow filter set up

 

[CUCV]

It's a bypass. If I could draw anything but a stick figure, I'd sketch it.

I have a "CAD for boneheads" software package.

Let me see what I can do.