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Another broken crankshaft - I'm gonna cry.

Nah, third time's a charm. Take it to a machine shop and see what they can do for it. For all we know, the 2nd crank could have just been a fluke. Seriously, it might be worth it to see what they think. None of us can tell you whether or not your block is true. I'd consider taking it in and having the shop build the bottom end to make sure that it's in good shape...then put a fluid damper balancer on it for good measure.

JMO, though.
 
This has just about convinced me to fork out the $950 plus shipping for the forged Peninsular crank for my upcoming rebuild. And yes I called them and its not a myth , it is really available :D
 
JiFaire said:
:D Yeah, I remember - was just funnin' ya, TD. Rich posted some cool pics of the chips in his block, the busted crank, and the crappy way the whole thing was packaged on that pallet.

There's a lesson in that for people... check every shipment for damage before you sign...
Click to expand...

Man, I remember the moment the truck driver opened the door, I was in disbelief over the whole mess! That is one of those memory-moments that will probably stick with me until the day I die!

Like Tim said, -it really was a blessing in disguise, -for both he and I. After seeing what I saw on that pallet, I promptly got on the phone with SCAT and ordered one from them. As far as the block goes, it was so dinged-up, it wasn't worth me messing with. I found a 2000 506 instead, -built that one, -and broke it with the shop-rag in the intake, -then rebuilt my original 599 (the one with a couple small cracks in the outer holes). My 6.5 experience was a trying one, -but also a rewarding one as well. Hey, -I wouldn't know any of you guys if I didn't have my 6.5, -right?? :D

As far as having to do anything with the SCAT crank, -I did. Only because of the way the tolerances stacked up, and the fact that I can be a little nit-picky when it comes to engine building, -and I had two crankpins that had enough taper to warrant some polishing by the local crank shop.

How much taper? -Well, only about .0003" (.0004" at the worst).

Certainly not a real biggie, but I don't like any taper, -period. I also never like running bearings too tight either, -which was the case before doing the polishing.

So far, 8000 miles of use (and some abuse), -not a single issue with anything on the new 19:1 build. She runs like a top.

The broken crank that belongs to the O.P. looks REALLY gray in color, -so was the broken one that showed up on the truck that day.

Surely there are enough ID numbers on that sucker to trace it back to the outfit that made it. If it came from GM or GEP, those number should mean something to them, -shouldn't they?

Something doesn't seem right.
 
You can use 6.5 parts on the 6.2

The 6.2 is said to be more durable as well.

Diesel Depot sells rebuilt 6.2s with all kind of special strengthening and balancing mods you might look at if you want to keep the truck. $3400 for a good one bored over a little and uses new 6.5 heads, some heat tempering or coatings on parts, or they can customize whatever extras you want on yours.
 
A New Hope

I just got off of the phone with Bill Heath and he confirmed that a 6.2 shortblock will work fine as a replacement for my busted 6.5. He said to be sure to use 6.5 turbo head gaskets with it and everything else should bolt right up.

I am planning on picking up a supposedly low mileage (50K) 6.2 in Cleveland in the next day or 2 for $200.
 
ShawnR said:
I just got off of the phone with Bill Heath and he confirmed that a 6.2 shortblock will work fine as a replacement for my busted 6.5. He said to be sure to use 6.5 turbo head gaskets with it and everything else should bolt right up.

I am planning on picking up a supposedly low mileage (50K) 6.2 in Cleveland in the next day or 2 for $200.
Click to expand...

There is a write-up in the last issue of Max Torque describing that very process.
 
ShawnR said:
I just got off of the phone with Bill Heath and he confirmed that a 6.2 shortblock will work fine as a replacement for my busted 6.5. He said to be sure to use 6.5 turbo head gaskets with it and everything else should bolt right up.

I am planning on picking up a supposedly low mileage (50K) 6.2 in Cleveland in the next day or 2 for $200.
Click to expand...

Woot! Glad to hear it. Maybe I'll do the same thing when I put together a new motor. I'll have to do some research into it.
 
RedneckBuckeye posted this over on the 6.2 forum and I jumped on it. I am heading out to pick it up tomorrow right after lunch.

http://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/982712377.html

Supposedly only ever ran on the dyno and never installed in a vehicle. I will sell off everything but the short block to recover some $$$.

I will put my heads on it with ARP studs and new gaskets. Any recommendations on brand? (Felpro most likely). I will check the rocker retainer clips while I am in there.

Slim Shady has provided the list of other mods that I will need to tweak. (Thank You!)
 
ShawnR said:
<snip>
I will check the rocker retainer clips while I am in there.

(Thank You!)
Click to expand...

Just gonna check them? It's about a 20 minute job to swap them all out while the covers are off. ...pretty cheap insurance, I thought, when I did mine.

Remove the rockers, cut the inside of the buttons with a screwdriver, snap new ones in with strong thumbs, then seat gently with a light tap of a hammer and drift.
 
Well I just picked up a "remanufactured" 6.2 from a trip to IN. It is in a VERY HEAVY military crate and has obviously never been installed in anything. It was remanufactured by UNICON out of Beaumont TX and has a tag on the block listing all of the specs. Not a bad deal for $500.

I am debating with dad about if I should put it in “as-is” as in a complete assembled 6.2, or tear it apart and stick on my 6.5 stuff.

From what I am reading so far, a 6.2 is fine for a daily driver, but if you tow much (I do) then I probably wouldn’t be happy.

I can post pics if anybody is interested.
 
I dont know much about the 6.2 but if it has the same compression maybe you could put the 6.5 turbo and manifolds on it. Im not sure about cranking up the IP for a turbo.
 
You got the time right :) I think you should swap the heads as planned if you can, and get a high flow water pump and updated DMAX fan while you got it all out. A pump off of a 97-98 truck or one from SSDieselSupply or wherever. You'll need the intake to connect to the turbo.

The 6.2 with 6.5 heads and turbo with updated cooling should make for a better more reliable towing truck, since it has a stronger block.
 
buddy said:
You got the time right :) I think you should swap the heads as planned if you can, and get a high flow water pump and updated DMAX fan while you got it all out. A pump off of a 97-98 truck or one from SSDieselSupply or wherever. You'll need the intake to connect to the turbo.

The 6.2 with 6.5 heads and turbo with updated cooling should make for a better more reliable towing truck, since it has a stronger block.
Click to expand...

Give Peninsular a call and see if they have any water pump takeoffs. Their prices are quite reasonable. Maybe you want one of their dual thermostat crossovers too. ...maybe not; some folks don't like the dual t-stats.

I would definitely swap your heads and 6.5 fuel and induction system. ...unless you want a dependable, not too powerful, good fuel mileage truck.

Great find on the engine!
 
You can have dependable with the 6.5 parts on the 6.2, not too hard.

Did the 6.2 fuel injection pump give better mileage than the mechanical 6.5 in 93, or was that just through lower power?
 
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