• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Alternator interchangabilty ?

anywho when the gauge went screwy today i was able to test the alt its charging at 13.1 volts. . .

Mike
 
If you all will notice i haven't really done much pissing and moan or griping about this truck in a while i was just taking it as it came. . .I was just in the right mood to make a few pissy type comments about tonight but i didn't beat it to death i PMSed and moved along in the repair process. . .

yea its 95 yea its got 130k miles on it that to me don't mean much to me or IMO its a rather young truck and not so high milaged as most might think. . .I have trucks that are twice its age with triple the miles and they are still going down the road, Running strong Running healthy being trust worthy and even do it safely. . .

I'm am sorry if i get pissed and you all have to hear about. . .your the ones that are getting me threw the break downs as well I know that ! yea i do get hot and pissed off wouldn't you if the role was reversed ?. . .
But i do fix it and fix it again if need be because i don't replace truck when the body style changes i replace it when its dead !
I fix'em till there is nothing left to be fixed. . .

Mike

Hey Mike, the trick is to fix them right so you don't have to keep fixing them. My ole truck is the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. The stuff I've learned here have made it that way. I would really be interested to know what it is you have to keep fixing over and over. And as far as power goes - same thing, the stuff I've learned here have really brought my 6.5 to life.

Smitty
 
about 6 months ago, my gauge went from reading 14.5volts to one morning after a few minutes dropping to 13. voltmeter says 14.2. been that way ever since. bought higher amp alternator, rewired under hood, etc- no change. just a screwy gauge now. go figure.
 
about 6 months ago, my gauge went from reading 14.5volts to one morning after a few minutes dropping to 13. voltmeter says 14.2. been that way ever since. bought higher amp alternator, rewired under hood, etc- no change. just a screwy gauge now. go figure.


my burb does it too...i have replace or fixed everything for the charging system....the factory gauges are just screwy.....put in after market gauge and it reads from 13.5 to 14.5 volts all the time(when runnin') when the factory gauge reads 10 to 12 volts and sometimes 14.......i just don't look at it....

now the 1 ton reads right all the time....just i need to put 93 dash set in my 95:mad2::mad2::mad2:.....LOL
 
I'm am sorry if i get pissed and you all have to hear about. . .your the ones that are getting me threw the break downs as well I know that ! yea i do get hot and pissed off wouldn't you if the role was reversed ?. . .
Mike

I get pissed but that is nature of things mechanical designed by those that don't ever have to work on them, my wife of 22 years knows to steer clear when hood on any vehicle is raised, as I vocalize at times my frustrations, but as pissed as I am I don't feel need to put it in text, and I certainly can't fault the vehicle, either the design team was in error, or was handed constraints to which the design had to meet that was a compromise for cost vs. schedule.

When you come to the place where we try to undo the myths perpetuated by the uninformed that the 6.5 is junk, standby if we take exception to your assertion.

You said the 6.5 is gutless, well possibly you expect too much, the 6.5 does have a Diesel yes, and if unleashed properly can do 99% of the work most of us would put to it, GM meeting stringent standards set by our "guvmint" limited the hp of this "LIGHT DUTY DIESEL" , factory flywheel of 195 Hp is not going to set any impressive fugures for the rear wheel, not that the 6.5 can't be made to do more, but that constraints put on it when it was offered commercially, it can't be legally made to do it and still keep to EPA stds that the manufacturer had to meet.

The 6.5 EFI TD was the 1st mass production OEM light duty Diesel to try to meet the goal of good economy & reasonable emissions, many tout the old 7.3 & Cummins as THE engines to have, they were not without their issues, saddle them with the emission junk 6.5s had and you'll see they weren't all that either, people often forget apples to oranges IDI vs DI when griping about the 6.5, they forget the gutless nature of the IDI 6.9 & 7.3 (pre Stroke) engines, our current crop of "powerhouse" engines with DPFs, cooling, injection, heads etc. are having issues as well, wanna gripe about junk have a gander of that stuff and you'll really be set off, all engines to date have had issues.

Comparing to way engines used to be is fruitless, 6.5 is what we deal with here, in spite of it's flaws ( we know fixes around most of them); we like them here and don't like hearing trash talk about them, we've heard all that also, this is our refuge from the trash talk heard elsewhere, so really would prefer that you don't perpetuate it here.

We gave you some ideas in the past how to make it more reliable & stronger, you did not like our suggestions, okay but it is what it is.

The old addage that performance cost $$$ is no different for the 6.5, there are some relatively inexpensive power tips, that also improve power output, but after that you have to lower your expectations, or open the wallet, plain ugly truth of it all, regardless of which power plant option you choose to tinker with.

As word to wise you'll get more respect here and participation if you'll not begin every problem post with "this piece of junk.......", if you just need to vent your spleen of bile, rant away in OT, which is where ranting for ranting sake is allowed
 
Last edited:
Keep in mind the cost to repair these is significantly cheaper and easier to do then the newer diesel's for sure, and even the Powerstrokes.

Every vehicle of 10-20 years of age w/ computers is going to have problems. It's the nature of the beast. The ol' trucks in your sigs have a mechanical pump, and all they need is a way to start. Once they started, they will keep running without alternators, batteries, or anything else. Emmisions control and aims for higher fuel economy has turned basic engines into complex designs. Some worked over 20 years, some did not.

I hate to see what D-Max's are like in 20+ years when I can actually afford one.

But I can honestly say, just like you Mike, I am keeping my 6.5 until it is un-fixable, and just not worth dropping a new engine in. Hopefully that wont happen.

I have no chip yet, no exhaust yet, and my truck empty weighs in at 9200lbs. She's heavy, but moves along quite fine. I have gone 2 complete years without problems of any sort since installing the heath isolator. This winter i had a valve issue. Fixed and now running great again.

I have had alternator failure with this rig. and It allowed about 30 minutes of drive time. Funny how it acted actually. It would drive, but put itself in limp mode, and just got SLOWER and SLOWER until I got to my destination to change the alt. At the end I was chuggin along at about 5mph, but I made it there!
 
I hafta sympathize with Mikey a bit. I've only ever put one tank of fuel through mine before I parked it. Sometimes I feel like, "open hood, pour in money".

Hopefully the weather will warm up soon and all will be forgotten as I'm smellin' the diesel fumes. It really ran nice before I parked it. We got teased with a couple of weeks of beautiful weather and I got a lot done. Now, it's been cold and snowing or raining the past two weeks. Sunny forecast tomorrow, with rain for the weekend. ...took tomorrow off work; hoping I can get the thing started.

...and it is relatively inexpensive to fix, thank goodness. I recently found my receipts from the machine shop. $2680 for all the work and parts and assembly of the long block. No cylinder bore -- just honed, align honed, decked block, magnaflux, valve job, reciprocating assembly balance; reused pistons, rods, crank (just polished journals), and camshaft. New heads, reused valves and springs. New main and head bolts. Really not too bad.

Of course, while I was at it: new Fluidampr and pulley, water pump, OPS (with nifty new extension hose), hoses, "rebuilt" the radiator, new surge tank, thermostats, belt tensioner, Lube Specialist kit, motor mounts, power steering hoses (pump not all that old), master cylinder, wrapped the glow plug wires with heat shield, gauges, FSD extension and sink....forgot all what else, and stopped counting.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top